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Posted

I'm shopping for something in the range of 8.9-9.2 mm with a low impact force. Looks like the market is Mammut, Sterling, and Tendon. Any preferences between them? I've only climbed on the 8.9 mm Mammut single and liked it. Tendon ropes sound pretty amazing but I don't know if you can get their 9.2 mm single over in the USA yet.

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Posted

In Alaska this year we used a Tendon 8.9 double rope as a single, and I was a little surprised how trashed it was after a couple of routes and a lot of slogging. On the other hand on the Southern Pickets Traverse we used a Tendon 9.4 I think, which was not even new to start with, and it looked fine by the end even though we figured that the traverse is probably harder on a rope than most routes anywhere (that doesn't involve jugging) because of sharp rock and lichen.

 

I've been really happy with the skinny Mammut ropes I've used too. I'd say just look for the best deal.

Posted

Colin, gimme a ring if you want to borrow one of my nano's and try it out. I am a card carrying sterling-o-phile like most of my peeps, but i have heard good things about the current mammuts and tendons.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

In my experience, the effective length of the dry treatment depends on how clean you keep the rope, and then how you treat it when top roping, rapping, lowering, as its the dirt and grit that will really tear it up going thru the device. Alpine climbing not so hard on the rope especially if you sling everything well and use revolver biners at critical places.

Posted

the best dry treatment is on a rope that has never touched rock. use two separate, dedicated ropes for rock and ice routes. Alpine routes get the rock rope usually, because in my experience ropes get positively trashed in the alpine because of all the terrain belays and such.

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