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billcoe

Separete Reality beta

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Don't watch it if you are going for the "onsight". (Plaidman)

 

Good stuff:-)

 

[video:youtube]

I blew the onsight. Damn it!!!

But seriously I may be crazy but I am not stupid. I don't think I could do that if I was roped up and had aiders, pulled on gear and generally just cheated. That looks REALLY hard!

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Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams.

 

Awful soundtrack.

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Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams.

 

Awful soundtrack.

 

yeah he should let polish bob pick the music for his vids :lmao:

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dean makes it look like a 5.9 route. except for that last part when he cut his feet loose, I almost shat myself.

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Tom said Full Tilt (aka the monster roof on Tempest) is harder than this or Desert Shield. So I won't be impressed until I see Dean free solo Full Tilt, preferably onsight.

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Tom said Full Tilt (aka the monster roof on Tempest) is harder than this or Desert Shield. So I won't be impressed until I see Dean free solo Full Tilt, preferably onsight.

 

and slightly further away from a paved road :rolleyes: and btw, my dad can beat ue dad up and he's been dead for 6 years ;)

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Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams.

 

Awful soundtrack.

 

It's just too bad he looks so sketched... :rolleyes:

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I remember when Bob and Mark Kroese went to the Valley and sent Seperate Reality back in the 80's. Issaquah boys crushing it. I've wanted to have a go at this ever since it was the front cover of Mountain magazine Ray Jardine on the first ascent.

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Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams.

 

Awful soundtrack.

 

It's just too bad he looks so sketched... :rolleyes:

 

I assume you're being sarcastic, he sort of made it look like it should be downrated to 5.8. That feet cutting loose at the end was pure theater, he's obviously got strength to burn, even at the lip.

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I don't care what people say about rehearsing routes into submission. Sure, it's a step or two lower on some theoretical totem pole than OS FS but it's still burly.

 

I've been top-roping routes into submission lately. It's a lot of fun and the ones with committing moves and tiny gear still give me a good scare when I finally lead them.

 

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I don't care what people say about rehearsing routes into submission.

 

I couldn't agree more, but more because I'm a terrible on-sight climber. There's nothing quite like smoothly climbing a well-rehearsed pitch that previously I had taken multiple hangs and falls on solo TR. But I guess smoothly on-sighting should still be the goal...

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I'm with you guys on that, and I've been around the block enough to know my ability to climb a project I've worked out the choreography for doesn't mean I really climb that grade out in the real world. It is sure fun though to have put all the pieces together and be able to lead smoothly through sections that once kicked your ass.

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While I enjoy an onsight attempt for other reasons, like others have stated, I really enjoy working a route down to each move and making it feel easy when it is totally at my limit. Talk about tingly! I think a feeling of mastery in anything is pretty rare event, so it's pretty cool when it all comes together.

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BTW My 4 year old was looking over my shoulder the other day and saw Skykilo's avitar and said "look dad, unicorns, cute!"

 

Hilarious.

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