billcoe Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Don't watch it if you are going for the "onsight". (Plaidman) Good stuff:-) [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazzo Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I’d rather FreeBASE [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Don't watch it if you are going for the "onsight". (Plaidman) Good stuff:-) [video:youtube] I blew the onsight. Damn it!!! But seriously I may be crazy but I am not stupid. I don't think I could do that if I was roped up and had aiders, pulled on gear and generally just cheated. That looks REALLY hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams. Awful soundtrack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams. Awful soundtrack. yeah he should let polish bob pick the music for his vids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 CPB does avoid copyright issues though, I've gotta give him that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 dean makes it look like a 5.9 route. except for that last part when he cut his feet loose, I almost shat myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Tom said Full Tilt (aka the monster roof on Tempest) is harder than this or Desert Shield. So I won't be impressed until I see Dean free solo Full Tilt, preferably onsight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Tom said Full Tilt (aka the monster roof on Tempest) is harder than this or Desert Shield. So I won't be impressed until I see Dean free solo Full Tilt, preferably onsight. and slightly further away from a paved road and btw, my dad can beat ue dad up and he's been dead for 6 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams. Awful soundtrack. It's just too bad he looks so sketched... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 post deleted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 I remember when Bob and Mark Kroese went to the Valley and sent Seperate Reality back in the 80's. Issaquah boys crushing it. I've wanted to have a go at this ever since it was the front cover of Mountain magazine Ray Jardine on the first ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams. Awful soundtrack. It's just too bad he looks so sketched... I assume you're being sarcastic, he sort of made it look like it should be downrated to 5.8. That feet cutting loose at the end was pure theater, he's obviously got strength to burn, even at the lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I don't care what people say about rehearsing routes into submission. Sure, it's a step or two lower on some theoretical totem pole than OS FS but it's still burly. I've been top-roping routes into submission lately. It's a lot of fun and the ones with committing moves and tiny gear still give me a good scare when I finally lead them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I don't care what people say about rehearsing routes into submission. I couldn't agree more, but more because I'm a terrible on-sight climber. There's nothing quite like smoothly climbing a well-rehearsed pitch that previously I had taken multiple hangs and falls on solo TR. But I guess smoothly on-sighting should still be the goal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I'm with you guys on that, and I've been around the block enough to know my ability to climb a project I've worked out the choreography for doesn't mean I really climb that grade out in the real world. It is sure fun though to have put all the pieces together and be able to lead smoothly through sections that once kicked your ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 While I enjoy an onsight attempt for other reasons, like others have stated, I really enjoy working a route down to each move and making it feel easy when it is totally at my limit. Talk about tingly! I think a feeling of mastery in anything is pretty rare event, so it's pretty cool when it all comes together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 BTW My 4 year old was looking over my shoulder the other day and saw Skykilo's avitar and said "look dad, unicorns, cute!" Hilarious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.