kurthicks Posted October 29, 2011 Author Posted October 29, 2011 Thanks everyone. It was/is a great line and I'm bummed that it's probably getting buried in snow right now! I haven't found an overview photo yet, but here's a Google Earth image that shows the line (thin green line in the center is the route, red is down). Cascade Pass is in the lower right corner. Quote
lazzara Posted October 29, 2011 Posted October 29, 2011 Nice work team - maybe with Sunday's 8000' freezing level/rain it might still be good next week. I'm still shopping for a partner for the repeat . . . What were your approach and descent times? Quote
kurthicks Posted October 29, 2011 Author Posted October 29, 2011 It should be good if the FL goes up, then down again--and will help build up the thin ice on the first and fifth pitches. The FL was around 4000' when we did it, after having gone up (and rained) to about 8k. It took us a mellow 2.5 hours to the base from the car and most of that is on the Cascade Pass trail. From the top of the face, it was about 1.5 hours to the Cache Glacier. Initially, this was super loose traversing along the crest (right at dusk), then downclimbing into the (relative) unknown of the East Face in the dark...then about two hours of easy walking from the Cache back to the car. give me a ring or email if you need more beta. Quote
genepires Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 Hey Kurt, in your photo above, what is the unlabeled lime green line? Long time ago, I heard of a good summer line on mixup pk and I was wondering if that was your lime green route? maybe I should do some research in the beckey guide. Quote
Blake Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 awesome climb and photos... i love the shots with you all up in the rhime and snice, and the fall colors of the cascade pass trail down below. Quote
Alex Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 Your descent line is essentially "Dougs Direct" which is a good approach/de-pproach to the E Side of Jo'burg in the Summertime. Quote
Jens Posted November 1, 2011 Posted November 1, 2011 Awesome! Nice job guys! I have walked under those gullies so many times and thought that their would be some classic routes. This kind off season stuff and terrain is the future of the cascades. Summertime "everything goes" pretty much all the time and many find traverses and enchainments boring. Quote
powdherb Posted November 1, 2011 Posted November 1, 2011 Holy shit nearly 600m of radness? Looks amazing. Quote
kurthicks Posted November 3, 2011 Author Posted November 3, 2011 I uploaded a picture from yesterday to the original tr post. Gene -- the other line is the Skagit/Chelan county boundary that google earth overlaid. Alex -- I'd done Doug's Direct years ago after climbing J'Berg and we hoped it went with snow on it. It did, fortunately. Quote
DPS Posted November 3, 2011 Posted November 3, 2011 (edited) In case Peter Chapman's and our line on Mixup http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=413393 should end up in Burdick's guidebook, I would like to retroactively name it 'The Angry Wives Club'. Edited November 3, 2011 by DPS Quote
Alex Posted November 3, 2011 Posted November 3, 2011 the new pic is awesome! looks like a great line but moreover seems like you hit the perfect (narrow) window for conditions to realize the route. I think the relative accessibily of the route is a real draw. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 4, 2011 Posted November 4, 2011 fuckkkk... that line looks hella tight nice work guys! Quote
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