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[TR] Mount Hood - South Route, Old Chute 10/16/2011


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Posted

Trip: Mount Hood - South Route, Old Chute

 

Date: 10/16/2011

 

Trip Report:

I had a successful solo climb up the South side of Mount Hood on Sunday. The snow was great and there was no evidence of rock fall around the old chute. There appeared to be a couple feet of new snow on the upper parts of the mountain and the summit ridge was completely covered in snow and ice. Thanks to a couple freeze/thaw cycles, the snow was frozen solid most the day. Check out my full report and pictures on my blog.

 

[img:center]http://loomisadventures.com/sites/default/files/images/blog/mt-hood-07-large-10.16.11.jpg[/img]

 

[img:center]http://loomisadventures.com/sites/default/files/images/blog/mt-hood-12-large-10.16.11.jpg[/img]

 

Gear Notes:

Used snowshoes, crampons, and one mountaineering ice axe (but snowshoes were not necessary).

 

Approach Notes:

Only patchy frozen snow until above Palmer lift where it became all frozen snow.

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Posted

fuck the s side - shoulda seen the ephemeral fantasies of the n side this stormy sunday morning :) the cooper spur, for example, beats the holy-hell out of the dog route on the s side and there's not a flake of snow on the cloud cap road :rawk:

 

 

Posted
sweet... i'm going as soon as we finish this job, if weather holds... see anyone else out there?

 

I was the only climber on Sunday. What a treat on the usually busy South side.

Posted
fuck the s side - shoulda seen the ephemeral fantasies of the n side this stormy sunday morning :)

 

Thank god for the thermarests we were able to stay afloat in that flooded tent of yours :)

 

Steel and Fires above the Coe's Headwall:

6264684696_b60e7ab072_b.jpg

 

6264684646_b49e91e0c9_b.jpg

 

Posted
So did you climb the n side then?

nope, at least not the n face proper - tried getting on the coe but after poking around a few places decided it wasn't worth losing all that elevation on scary ground just to come right back up again - looks much cooler just to approach it from the beginning of the glacier, though that's obviously more of an excursion

 

we wandered up the mtn via the snowdome and got great views of the n face though - the sicko pencil is apparent, but i'd be goddamned if i ever tried climbing it :) - the n face gullies looked okay and were very active spindrift factories - the cooper spur looks tiiiits now and is the easiest way backdown the n side from the summit fo'shizzle right now.

Posted (edited)
Any pics of the north face gullies?

they look horrible - DON'T go anywhere near them man! especially if its nice n' sunny n' clear the next couple of days :)

 

anasatia took the pix - she'll have to put one from her flicker up

Edited by ivan
Posted

Gawd no, - in the Patrique's carriage that he delivered from Seattle and transported Ivan and I - almost successfully - to the permit-zone-law-abiding undisclosed location on the FS 3512 where we were almost killed by dashing cossacks in the approaching 4x4. :)

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