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Everything posted by Loomis

  1. Here we go again... http://www.kgw.com/news/Search-on-for-climber-lost-in-whiteout-on-Mt-Hood-181284661.html I am amazed how time and time again climbers go out on Mt Hood's south route knowing full well what the weather is going to do (or can do) without being prepared to climb down in a whiteout. A simple magnetic compass is all that is needed to get down. A GPS is awesome too. Having both is ideal. There is no excuse to get lost on the south route unless you are hurt. I hope this gentleman makes it and learns a lesson in navigation during poor weather.
  2. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    I wonder if it really is though? Even if you are good, when you can't tell sky from ground and the wind is pushing you around, I don't see how any solo person would be able to navigate over distance without some significant error. I think some degree of error is inevitable, but that is where skill in using navigational aids like a GPS really come into play. I have been in whiteout conditions solo before and rely on backtracking my recorded GPS track. I can usually stay within 50-100 feet of my track depending on how careful I am and how often I check my GPS. This has worked great for me on the South side of Mt Hood, but may not in places where the difference of a few feet can be fatal.
  3. Great pictures. Looks like you had a beautiful day. Definitely better than working.
  4. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    Water was quoting Jeff's story from facebook I believe.
  5. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    I agree. That was a shitty profile picture for CC. It was a pose with my wife for a photo Christmas card several years back on Boy Scout Ridge.
  6. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    That's a good one. It's actually worse. I had to work. It always gets in the way.
  7. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    Very true wfinley. Skiing is a whole different animal. I am not confident enough in my abilities to ski down in whiteout conditions so kudos to all those who do. And your right, some day I will fuck up (I always do) and down the road chances are I'll probably die doing what I love. By the way great photography on your website.
  8. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    I was using the term generically. My apologies.
  9. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    I like this reply. This guy set up a new CC alias just to post this. I don't remember saying I was a superior climber, but I eluded to being a better navigator. You are correct that I do not know all the details of this incident, but if you do, please tell. We are talking about South side Mt Hood here. Besides an injury I see no reason one should get lost to the point of needing rescue on this route. Delayed sure, but lost, no.
  10. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    Good point, but that's like comparing apples to oranges. We are talking South side Mt Hood here and 2012. On unfamiliar terrain, I'd be less likely to proceed much further if conditions rapidly deteriorated without signs of improvement. But I would also be relying on a modern day GPS with detailed topo maps and a plot of my route that I could follow back if needed.
  11. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    Success in navigating during poor weather (or any time) has to do with ones general knowledge and familiarity with an area. In this particular case it is fairly common knowledge that when heading down from the hogsback if you follow due South on a magnetic compass you will get back down to Timberline. I have personally done this solo in a total whiteout (I could barely see my feet). When I climb in foul weather, I prepare for it. Relying on a single navigational aid is never smart either. Personally I carry a GPS with detailed mapping software and plotted route, spare battery for GPS, magnetic compass, and altimeter with digital compass. I never want to get lost and therefore I prepare accordingly. I go out in poor weather all the time. We don't really have a choice in the Pacific Northwest. That just makes being prepared all the more important. My initial comment was made out of frustration. I get tired of people getting lost when a little more preparation would have likely made the outcome much different. It's not rocket science, just common sense. The same day I went up to the hogsback for the first time (total whiteout on decent) on Hood there was a guy that became lost and had to be rescued. The culprit was ill preparedness. It gives climbing a bad rep. The general public often incorrectly thinks it costs a small fortune for the rescue and resent climbers as a result. As sad as it is, it is very common for experienced outdoors people to not know how to really use a compass. But in this case who knows. It really doesn't matter as long as you have some type of navigation aid that you do know how to use. I personally rely on a GPS and only use a compass as a fallback. A big lesson here, is always have a backup. This is Oregon in winter. Chances are the weather will be shitty. If you go out, have a plan to get back. Plenty of climbers do this. I have done it solo. I prefer a GPS. There are also plenty of much better climbers than me that are familiar enough with an area they are able to navigate whiteout conditions without the aid of a compass or GPS, but I am sure they carry one, or the other, or both.
  12. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    Not sure WTF that means but I've never had to spend an unplanned night in a lenticular. Might have something to do with me knowing how to read a compass. Hope rescuers get him down. Same here. Knowing how to use navigational aids is what makes them valuable. I have climbed down Hood in whiteout conditions with the help of a compass. In any case I am glad he is safe.
  13. [TR] Hood - Devil's Kitchen HW 11/27/2012

    Great photos. Looks like it was a gorgeous day.
  14. Trip: Mt Hood - South Route Date: 11/5/2012 Trip Report: I attempted a solo climb of Hood via the South route on Monday. I had the whole mountain to myself. There was very little snow until above the Palmer lift. It was in the upper 40's all day and windy until about noon. The snow up high is unstable, so I turned around at the bergschrund. There was lots of evidence of recent loose snow avalanches in the Old Chute and Devil's Kitchen Headwall. It might have been okay, but not worth the risk in my book. Hopefully the cold front coming in will stabilize things a bit. More pictures on my blog here. Approach Notes: Mostly dirt until above Palmer.
  15. I have a pair of La Sportiva Batura EVO mountaineering boots for sale. They are size 45 (approximately US 11-1/2). They are lightly used for one season in fantastic condition. These are very warm boots and great for ice climbing and winter climbing in the Cascades. They are $550 new so I am selling for $400. Specs
  16. Snowshoe Advice

    The MSR Lightning Ascent snowshoes are my favorite. They are worth the money in my opinion, and you might find them on sale or used on CL. They are light, comfortable, easy to pack, and most importantly climb well. I have used them on Mt Hood to the Hogsback.
  17. Hood North Face pic?

    Thanks for posting my picture Matt. I have a couple more from my trip report on my hike to the Cooper Spur stone shelter on Tuesday. Tilly Jane/Cooper Spur hike TR.
  18. My Jefferson

    My wife and I went hiking to Pamelia Lake and Grizzly Peak on Saturday, so I could see how Mt Jefferson is looking. The weather was gorgeous. The trail to the lake had snow the last mile, but the trail was obvious. It wont last long as it was only about a foot deep. There was no snow along the lake shore. There is still tons of snow on the Grizzly Peak trail above about 4,600'. Jefferson still has lots of rime ice up high. More pictures and full report on my blog, Loomis Adventures.
  19. I was with 'Water' on Middle Sister last weekend. You can see some pictures of the conditions on my blog: Loomis Adventures Also, here is a link to my trip up South Sister last year in July. There was a lot more snow last year, but I would imagine the conditions right now might be similar, but probably with a bit more snow.
  20. FS: Asolo AFS 8000 boots

    What do you mean by minor repairs?
  21. Trip: Mount Hood - South Route, Old Chute Date: 10/16/2011 Trip Report: I had a successful solo climb up the South side of Mount Hood on Sunday. The snow was great and there was no evidence of rock fall around the old chute. There appeared to be a couple feet of new snow on the upper parts of the mountain and the summit ridge was completely covered in snow and ice. Thanks to a couple freeze/thaw cycles, the snow was frozen solid most the day. Check out my full report and pictures on my blog. [img:center]http://loomisadventures.com/sites/default/files/images/blog/mt-hood-07-large-10.16.11.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://loomisadventures.com/sites/default/files/images/blog/mt-hood-12-large-10.16.11.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: Used snowshoes, crampons, and one mountaineering ice axe (but snowshoes were not necessary). Approach Notes: Only patchy frozen snow until above Palmer lift where it became all frozen snow.
  22. I was the only climber on Sunday. What a treat on the usually busy South side.
  23. I am looking for a spare climbing helmet. Maybe a Petzl Elios or Black Diamond Half Dome. Thanks.
  24. I am looking for 2 or 3 Mt. Saint Helens permits for either June 11th or June 12th please. Thanks.
  25. cmore, I'll take two if you still have them. I sent you a message. Thanks.