Speed Ascents

[Wastral]

Heck, that speed ascent is nothing.

 

 

 

I can blaze up the Eiger on Google earth in 3 minutes flat...

 

2 of which are loading the program.

[pink]

I know Steve and he is not a bitter person. He just speaks what he thinks. And honestly running up peaks has more to do with track and field then with climbing imo.

 

 

 

that's a good point bob climbers are more athletic these days. climbers have put down the pipe and bottle, the stopwatch has pushed climbing to the next level weather it be first ascents or classic repeats.

 

 

good post bob, ur contributions and rad music has honestly taken cc.com to a whole new level, like a track and field event. way to pass the baton mister .

T-A=0. The Nose in 19 hours, Grand Wall (Apron Strings start) in 2 hours 35 minutes. Care to share your experience in fast climbing with wider audience, or are you just another couch "expert"?

 

 

aurora in 48 hours in october, the zodiac in 24 hours in december , half of with a broken finger.

 

 

ur a liberal snob too bob, i have other goals than climbing these days but it cracks me up that u take the time to bag on people that are obviously superior to you in the climbing spectrum. my speed climbing accompishments are pretty much ghey and i'm embarrassed that i even posted them but ur are pretty fucking ghey too.

 

 

in a nutshell u r a silly little euro. my advice to you is get a job and pay ur bills and stop thinkin ur making some chick wet cause you climbed the grand wall in sub 3 hours. it's just not that impressive from i climbers point of view. i will give you props all day long for your accomplishments but when you start taking away from others accomplishments just makes you sound like a DICK.

 

i really don't climb much any more and seriously it's cause of DORKS like yourself. you can have it all dude, let me know when u don't climb anymore and i will consider returning to the big walls SANS ur ghey ass tinty metal

[pink]

I know Steve and he is not a bitter person. He just speaks what he thinks. And honestly running up peaks has more to do with track and field then with climbing imo.

 

 

 

that's a good point bob climbers are more athletic these days. climbers have put down the pipe and bottle, the stopwatch has pushed climbing to the next level weather it be first ascents or classic repeats.

 

 

good post bob, ur contributions and rad music has honestly taken cc.com to a whole new level, like a track and field event. way to pass the baton mister .

T-A=0. The Nose in 19 hours, Grand Wall (Apron Strings start) in 2 hours 35 minutes. Care to share your experience in fast climbing with wider audience, or are you just another couch "expert"?

 

 

OMG i just read ur speed climbing accomplishments again, i'm thinking we are both pretty fucking slow climbers. i'd have a beer with you any day mister. congrats on ur sub day accent if the nose. but seriously stop being such a snob.

[pink]

oh yeah! resolution arete in 9 hours car to car and epinephrine in 6.5 hours car to car. i can't even remember the shit i used to climb fast, fast is the best and u know it oh yeah! i soloed saint vitus' dance in the 10-15 minute range from top to bottom not even trying to climb fast. i'm sure you could go on and on and as well.

 

 

stop being such a DICK and this is coming from a dick, an american dick, not a euro dick

 

[pink]

You seriously think all Hans does is jug? Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that. Most of the time they are simo climbing, with Hans managing the grigri.

Ask yourself, in simo climbing does the strongest climber generally lead or go second?

 

 

Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that.

 

i'm pretty sure yuri would rather have hans following him than u mister

 

 

love ya man, hope you had a sweet climbing year tyler.

 

 

[pink]

Seeing Hans climb I don't think you would feel he takes huge risks. His every move is calculated, well thought out, and precisely executed. All because he has analyzed every single aspect of climbing, belaying, and moving over rock. Shaving a few seconds here, a few there, thinking how can he do this faster but within the realm of relative safety, although if he were to fall there would be consequences for someone. He removes unneccessary actions and tasks from the equation, and refines his art of movement over rock, literally flowing upward like most very fast rock climbers with no energy wasted. He is just one example of a speed climber, and his is something we can all learn from, although there is no need to mimic what he does for everyone. But to say it doesn't strike you as particularly good style is to show that you have never seen him in action or educated yourself as to what it is all about. Who was it that set the stage for motivating Tommy to do 2 El Cap free routes in a day? Don't you think that is more then a little ground breaking, and also the reason that badass walls in the Himalaya and Patagonia are now being done quickly and thus far more safely? EVERYONE can learn something from speed climbing in my book. It has set the stage for more incredible things about to happen....

 

Speed rock climbing on trade routes doesn't involve nearly as much rick as doing so in the mountains, especially on mixed climbs. I'll be forever in awe of people doing hard solo enchainments; however, climbing El Cap in 5 hours versus 2:38:15 (or whatever)? meh, it seems meaningless to me in terms of what is required to break new grounds, which doesn't mean that Florine or whoever aren't excellent and graceful climbers.

 

 

it's the 4 minute mile of climbing with RISK involved. if i climbed the nose in 6 days i'd and told the world of my accomplishment i'd hate to hear ur feedback on my adventure.

 

i doubt ur that good of a climber to even have an opinion. UR A SNOBBY fratboy

 

[pink]

:brew:

 

i'm drunk

[genepires]

:brew:

 

i'm drunk

 

obviously.

BTW, good job on the valley and RR climbs.

Edited October 24, 2011 by genepires

[kevbone]

I am surprised that the moderators have not moved this over to spray....ego thread?

[glassgowkiss]

Seeing Hans climb I don't think you would feel he takes huge risks. His every move is calculated, well thought out, and precisely executed. All because he has analyzed every single aspect of climbing, belaying, and moving over rock. Shaving a few seconds here, a few there, thinking how can he do this faster but within the realm of relative safety, although if he were to fall there would be consequences for someone. He removes unneccessary actions and tasks from the equation, and refines his art of movement over rock, literally flowing upward like most very fast rock climbers with no energy wasted. He is just one example of a speed climber, and his is something we can all learn from, although there is no need to mimic what he does for everyone. But to say it doesn't strike you as particularly good style is to show that you have never seen him in action or educated yourself as to what it is all about. Who was it that set the stage for motivating Tommy to do 2 El Cap free routes in a day? Don't you think that is more then a little ground breaking, and also the reason that badass walls in the Himalaya and Patagonia are now being done quickly and thus far more safely? EVERYONE can learn something from speed climbing in my book. It has set the stage for more incredible things about to happen....

 

Speed rock climbing on trade routes doesn't involve nearly as much rick as doing so in the mountains, especially on mixed climbs. I'll be forever in awe of people doing hard solo enchainments; however, climbing El Cap in 5 hours versus 2:38:15 (or whatever)? meh, it seems meaningless to me in terms of what is required to break new grounds, which doesn't mean that Florine or whoever aren't excellent and graceful climbers.

 

 

it's the 4 minute mile of climbing with RISK involved. if i climbed the nose in 6 days i'd and told the world of my accomplishment i'd hate to hear ur feedback on my adventure.

 

i doubt ur that good of a climber to even have an opinion. UR A SNOBBY fratboy

And neither Steve House nor myself were talking about climbing Nose or any other technical route. However his comment was regarding speed ascents on Rainier, or Everest, which are at the moment pretty much non technical routes due to the fixed ropes (hence eliminating 99% of any danger). So at last to me these ascents (even though I will never be that fit) don't really differ from say 50 mile run.

[glassgowkiss]

Seeing Hans climb I don't think you would feel he takes huge risks. His every move is calculated, well thought out, and precisely executed. All because he has analyzed every single aspect of climbing, belaying, and moving over rock. Shaving a few seconds here, a few there, thinking how can he do this faster but within the realm of relative safety, although if he were to fall there would be consequences for someone. He removes unneccessary actions and tasks from the equation, and refines his art of movement over rock, literally flowing upward like most very fast rock climbers with no energy wasted. He is just one example of a speed climber, and his is something we can all learn from, although there is no need to mimic what he does for everyone. But to say it doesn't strike you as particularly good style is to show that you have never seen him in action or educated yourself as to what it is all about. Who was it that set the stage for motivating Tommy to do 2 El Cap free routes in a day? Don't you think that is more then a little ground breaking, and also the reason that badass walls in the Himalaya and Patagonia are now being done quickly and thus far more safely? EVERYONE can learn something from speed climbing in my book. It has set the stage for more incredible things about to happen....

 

Speed rock climbing on trade routes doesn't involve nearly as much rick as doing so in the mountains, especially on mixed climbs. I'll be forever in awe of people doing hard solo enchainments; however, climbing El Cap in 5 hours versus 2:38:15 (or whatever)? meh, it seems meaningless to me in terms of what is required to break new grounds, which doesn't mean that Florine or whoever aren't excellent and graceful climbers.

 

 

it's the 4 minute mile of climbing with RISK involved. if i climbed the nose in 6 days i'd and told the world of my accomplishment i'd hate to hear ur feedback on my adventure.

 

i doubt ur that good of a climber to even have an opinion. UR A SNOBBY fratboy

yes, bragging about your speed ascents of aid routes doesn't give you much credibility in this department. Ragging on everyone around makes you look like a total wank douche nozzle, with (most likely) fitness level of a greyhound bus driver.

[Choada_Boy]

I always thought douchenozzle should be one word instead of two.

 

"Americans don't like to be uncomfortable."

-Steve House

[glassgowkiss]

please move this whole and pointless rant to spray, where we will be totally free to discuss spelling douchenozzle vs. douche nozzle.

[tvashtarkatena]

Yeah, if I were you guys I'd want this thread buried as deeply as possible too.

 

Wow.

[Wallstein]

Pink who would be stupid enough to spend 48 hours "speed" climbing on El Cap? Sounds pretty absurd to me...

 

 

 

Huberbaum - short fixed and jugged the whole nose for the record.

 

Hans/Yuji - mix of simul climbing and shortfixing.

 

Dean/stanley - mostly simul climbed with a bit of short fixing near the top.

 

 

All have there pro's and con's and all are way sketchy.

 

 

[stevetimetravlr]

You seriously think all Hans does is jug? Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that. Most of the time they are simo climbing, with Hans managing the grigri.

Ask yourself, in simo climbing does the strongest climber generally lead or go second?

 

 

Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that.

hey Tyler, You are cracking me up man. You got me wondering if I was off base as I have stood at the base when Hans and Yugi fired off with a few cams and stoppers and one can of Red bull taped to Yugi's harnass for the both of them, and thought Hans was climbing most of the time as they just flow up the rock 35-40 feet apart moving like rockets. but then your post got me wondering so I asked him. Hans is always the class act, and it really is magic to watch him climb, I've never seen a smoother or more graceful climber. Here is his response, hope this clarifies things.

 

Steve,

 

Thanks for the email. It makes me smile.

 

Of the 2970 ft of climbing on The Nose I have led every inch and jugged every inch many times during my 28 years of climbing, and 77 ascents. So, your friends would be right if they said I'm a good jugger. When Yuji and I climbed the route for the record ascent and for most of the practice runs. I simul climbed about 2200 ft of the route and jugged the the rest.

 

Right now Alex Honnold and I are experimenting with me leading to The Boot Flake, and Alex leading the top half of the route. I suppose I'll get people commenting that since I'm older now I can't handle all the work demanded of following on the back end during the first half. -That would be funny.

 

It's crossed both Yuji, Alex, and my mind that we should go with me on the lead the whole route so that people don't think I'm a hitch hiker. I do care what people think, but I care more to be strategic about getting the record. - Yuji and Alex know that I am more experienced at handling the work transitioning from climbing to jugging to climbing and there isn't much point in practicing so they can gain that experience. Not that they couldn't quickly and In the end be better/faster than me.

 

As another note, switching leaders during the route has not revealed itself to us as a great strategy. And we all believe that jugging somewhere along the route for the second person is a good strategy.

 

People can guess what the record would be if there were two Hanss or two Alexs or two Yujis climbing together. I have tried to use the strengths of the five different people I've set the record with. Many people may like to state it as Hans was put on the team so that his weaknesses wouldn't blow a shot at the record. Always a few ways to look at things.

 

all the best.

 

Hans

 

 

[G-spotter]

Yeah you guys I want buried as in me deeply as possible too.

 

Wow.

 

[pink]

Seeing Hans climb I don't think you would feel he takes huge risks. His every move is calculated, well thought out, and precisely executed. All because he has analyzed every single aspect of climbing, belaying, and moving over rock. Shaving a few seconds here, a few there, thinking how can he do this faster but within the realm of relative safety, although if he were to fall there would be consequences for someone. He removes unneccessary actions and tasks from the equation, and refines his art of movement over rock, literally flowing upward like most very fast rock climbers with no energy wasted. He is just one example of a speed climber, and his is something we can all learn from, although there is no need to mimic what he does for everyone. But to say it doesn't strike you as particularly good style is to show that you have never seen him in action or educated yourself as to what it is all about. Who was it that set the stage for motivating Tommy to do 2 El Cap free routes in a day? Don't you think that is more then a little ground breaking, and also the reason that badass walls in the Himalaya and Patagonia are now being done quickly and thus far more safely? EVERYONE can learn something from speed climbing in my book. It has set the stage for more incredible things about to happen....

 

Speed rock climbing on trade routes doesn't involve nearly as much rick as doing so in the mountains, especially on mixed climbs. I'll be forever in awe of people doing hard solo enchainments; however, climbing El Cap in 5 hours versus 2:38:15 (or whatever)? meh, it seems meaningless to me in terms of what is required to break new grounds, which doesn't mean that Florine or whoever aren't excellent and graceful climbers.

 

 

it's the 4 minute mile of climbing with RISK involved. if i climbed the nose in 6 days i'd and told the world of my accomplishment i'd hate to hear ur feedback on my adventure.

 

i doubt ur that good of a climber to even have an opinion. UR A SNOBBY fratboy

yes, bragging about your speed ascents of aid routes doesn't give you much credibility in this department. Ragging on everyone around makes you look like a total wank douche nozzle, with (most likely) fitness level of a greyhound bus driver.

 

i was only ragging on and ur bubby j_b, that leaves a lot of people out, and didn't you start listing ur fast times that really aren't that fast or technical to begin with in the first place. i'm not even gonna comment on the fitness thing,

you're a breath of fresh air mister.

Edited October 26, 2011 by pink

[pink]

Pink who would be stupid enough to spend 48 hours "speed" climbing on El Cap? Sounds pretty absurd to me...

 

 

 

Huberbaum - short fixed and jugged the whole nose for the record.

 

Hans/Yuji - mix of simul climbing and shortfixing.

 

Dean/stanley - mostly simul climbed with a bit of short fixing near the top.

 

 

All have there pro's and con's and all are way sketchy.

 

 

what's up mister?

 

more of a push than anything huh?