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psychobikere

Weekend climbing pack question

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I am in the middle of looking to purchase a new pack, and figured I would see if anyone here had any suggestions. I currently use a Cilo 30L for just about everything I do, but am looking for something bigger for slightly longer/more gear intensive trips. I would like a bag that can fit a tent, sleeping bag, pad, stove, etc..., a full rack, a rope, and enough clothing and food for 3-5 days. I will be making two trips to the enchantments soon, where we will hike in and set up base camp for 4 days each time, and run around and climb routes each day. Ideally I am looking for a pack that can cary all of my gear into camp, and then strip down to be able to use on the day-long excursions. Currently I have a MH Direttissima, but it carries like shit for me and I am looking for a replacement. So what does everyone else use for these types of trips? I am thinking something in the 45L-65L range. The Black Diamond Speed 50 and the North Face Prophet 52 both look interesting to me, but I have zero experience with either one.

 

Would be great to get some opinions as to where I should be looking, and then I will go from there and try them on to see what fits me best.

 

I also tend to be characterized by the slow and light style. I hate carrying extra junk. So something with a zillion pockets all over the place is going to be useless for me.

 

Thanks!

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Look at the Osprey Aether 60. Osprey packs are well made and are very functional for mountaineering. By reputation, they are VERY comfortable for most people.

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I would take a look at the Osprey Exposure pack. I have the 50L but also comes as a 66L. Very comfortable for a 4lb pack. Only has the main compartment plus a lid. Great for backcountry snow too with ski/board carry system.

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First of all, I would recommend something in the 60-65L range. Anything less and I think you'll be annoyed trying to cram everything in. Secondly, I'd recommend you take a trip to one of the great shops in the Seattle area (if you're relatively close) like Feathered Friends, Second Ascent, Marmot Mountain Works, etc, and have one of their knowledgeable staff help you decide on the pack that suits your needs and fits you best. That said:

 

I have the Osprey Exposure 50 (think they quit making it), and I find it a little too small for my needs on a 3-5 mountaineering trip, even fully extended. I do like it, though. I also have an Arc'Teryx Bora 80 (given to me as a gift), which is a heavy clunker that I only use for extended backpacking trips if I absolutely can't fit my gear into the 50L. I try to pack as light as I can, but there's only so much you can leave out and still maintain some margin of error (food and fuel are the only extras I bring). Perhaps you pack lighter, though, and can get away with something 50L. Personally, it's not worth the hassle of trying to stuff everything into a 50L...

 

...which is why I plan to get the Cilo Gear 60L Worksack as soon as I start getting steady paychecks in the fall. If you're wealthy (or just a gearwhore), they offer the pack in dyneema - but they do charge an arm and a leg, to be warned. (Though I was told that the company's profit is the almost the same between the two versions; the difference in cost is almost entirely materials.) The pack can be stripped down to a light weight for smaller loads by removing the framesheet. Plus, compartments can be compressed eliminating extra space. I should note that I have no experience with the pack other than playing with one in Feathered Friends, and desperately wanting it.

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Thanks guys.

 

So I have owned an Osprey Variant 52 that I thought I was going to be very happy with. However, I found that the frame folding over on itself at the hipbelt with a heavier load (30-40 lbs). I think this is because it just didn't fit me well (duh). That seems to be the only pack Osprey makes that has the features I like (proper ice tool attachments, not a lot of outside extras, removeable hipbelt and frame, etc...).

 

I have also owned a Cilogear 45L. I found that this never carried right for me either. This has bugged me because I LOVE my 30L, and really dig their design concept. However, this may be a total fluke because I have reason to believe that I was shipped the wrong size pack, and I am just stupid enough to not have realized it for a whole summer. So because of that experience, I am both tempted to try another Cilo, but also worried that I may have the exact same problem. Not to mention the prices have gone up since I last purchased a pack from them...That dyneema is sweet but I am not badass enough to be the fast and light alpine climber complete with the $1000 white pack.

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How about a proper backpacking pack, and an ultra-light pack for climbing?

 

My buddy and I are currently using Arcteryx Cierzo 15 & 25 packs for climbing day trips and they are surprisingly comfortable, spacious and have held up well so far. I also have a MEC Genie 30 that's super-comfortable and crazy cheap. And they all weigh something like 500g and stuff into their own pockets...

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Hey dude, sorry for treating you a bit like a noob in my post. Misread your experience level and completely missed the fact that your current 30L is a CiloGear. I'll leave the future recommendations to those more experienced than I.

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So I have been considering going the route of bringing along a separate small climbing pack. I have just been using my Cilo 30L for climbing with, but it is overkill to carry that in with a larger capacity pack. The Cilo 20L packs look pretty cool though. Maybe I will check out some of those small lightweight packs.

 

No problem skibum. I am definitely not new to buying packs, or climbing for that matter, but I think it is always good to hear what works for other people. With all of the innovation going on these days, I wonder if I am missing out on something by being too narrow-minded. With that said though, my favorite packs have always been the most simple ones, so I don't really know where that leaves me...

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CCW Chaos

 

All you will ever need and built to take a beating but still pretty light on the weight.

 

I would still throw in a lightweight day pack ala the Genie to boot.

 

 

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Get the Cilo 60L. awesome pack!

 

take out the frame and it's 3 lbs, 1 oz with the lid for day routes. Take off the lid and you're down to 2lbs, 12 oz.

 

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Experimenting with packs, I was almost in the same boat. I have a 70L MH South Col, which never carried right for me, I have a BD Epic 45 (which is awesome, climbs well, only downer is the lid doesn't come off). I just ordered a Cilogear 60L after testing it out. It seems perfect for those 2-3 trips, but fully extended out you can carry up to 90L. Pretty versatile and sweet pack.

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If I understand this, looks like you having an issue with the pack fit, not really with the companies or manufacturers.

 

I also, reached the point when I really don't look who is who (is it Cilo or MH, or TNF ...) I don't really care ... I would like to find perfect fit.

 

I regret selling my Arcteryx Needle 65 pack long time ago. I wanted something different and made big mistake. But maybe things will get better soon. If you can wait for Spring 2012, new Arcteryx No-Zone 55 is coming. They are going back to regular top lid for this model. No dry bag and fancy suspensions I don't like. I would like to have classic pack up to 60lit.

 

I think I will go for this new Arcteryx pack.

 

At this moment I have Pieps Plecotus 36 and Lowe Alpine TFX10 for big trips. I would like to have something similar to my old Needle 65.

 

616-822x1024.jpg

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You won't want to hear this but the MH Direttissima is a great pack for what you want to do. Nothing suggested that is bigger than your Cilo is any better for the lwt day trips you have planned. And none of the bigger packs are something you'll want to run around the Enchantments with after setting up camp.

 

I've used a bigger pack sucked down for day trips or summits and it is never the perfect answer.

 

Basically you'll want a back packing pack to get into the Enchantments (with a big load if you carry everything you have listed) and then you'll want a climbing pack for the day trips.

 

You'll be hard pressed to beat your set up now. Although I prefer the $30 Flash 18 for lwt day use.

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It really sounds like your primary issues are related to getting a good fit from your packs. This can be real hazard of buying packs through mail-order or not getting fitted properly at a store. I would strongly recommend that you find someone who knows how to puzzle out getting a pack to fit however you are built and get an idea what you need to look for fit-wise before you buy another pack. If you happened to live in Bellingham I could do it for you, I learned quite a bit about it when I used to work in a gear shop. Otherwise talk to some knowledgable sales people at a place like Second Ascent in Seattle. It sounds like you already own pretty good packs, they just don't fit right. Getting recommendations from others who are not the same shape you are probably won't be that helpful in the end.

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Thanks for all of the feedback.

 

I 100% agree that it is an issue of fit. I am looking for other packs to try, in an attempt to find a brand/style that DOES fit me well. Unfortunately, I live in Corvallis, OR where there are not many places to get fitted for a pack. The other issue is that whenever I do have time to travel to a good store (weekends), I would rather be out in the hills than sitting in a store in front of 15 different packs trying to decide which one would be best for me...

 

I am heading to the enchantments tonight with my Direttissima and a Marmot Kompressor pack (little lightweight thing). I will see how that setup works for me.

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