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Everything posted by skibum14

  1. Winter Climbing Partners

    Hey Dina, just replied to your email. Sorry for the delayed response. Maybe we can hit up Squamish again when you're back, if the weather is nice? Never managed to make it up there this summer, and I'm really itching for it!
  2. Enchantment Loop

    Neat stuff dude, thanks! Crazy how small of a world it is! Hearing him talk, he seemed to indicate that wasn't a one-time thing. Good reminder that no matter how fit you are, there's always someone fitter.
  3. Enchantment Loop

    I'm pretty sure I ran into him at Exit 32 one day. Overheard him saying he did that back when he was "in shape." (The story I heard was Serpentine Arete, fwiw.) He had the conversation with his belayer while he was floating up some 5.11 sport climb. Crazy stuff for sure. OP: I'd just plan to score a ride or stash a mtn bike. Not terrible difficult to do either of those and beats getting lost on a climbers trail which may or may not be the one you're looking for. If it's a weekend, the chances of catching a ride have to be pretty good.
  4. Very tempted, but I'm not sure I can keep up or whether my formerly-tweaked knee could handle the hiking (not too worried about the skiing). Ahhhh... Hope you find a partner.
  5. Looking for some suggestions

    Index is worth a visit if you're a solid climber comfortable placing gear. Exits 32 and 38 off of I90 have some decent sport climbing, but are smaller areas.
  6. 1st time to squamish, need suggestions

    Personally, I always really like the Octopus' Garden area of the Smoke Bluffs. Single-pitch stuff, but fun nonetheless.
  7. Icicle Crack Circuit

    ^^ I'm in no shape to do this right now, but damn that would be fun. I'm thinking it ought to be an annual cc.com event...
  8. Icicle Crack Circuit

    Props if you can do all that in a day. But it's cool you posted pretty much all of my favourite crack climbs in Leavenworth (though you seemed to have missed the stuff at Pearly Gates). Or just head to Squamish and lap the apron a few times. Diedre, Snake, Vector, Calculus Crack, St. Vitus' Dance, etc. (Oops, missed the title of this thread. Still a good option if you've got the time.)
  9. Best Weather Window in Southern Cascades

    Water is right: 4th of July to Labor Day is your best bet for decent weather. Obviously, the earlier you go, the better the snow.
  10. Boots are the #1 thing that makes or breaks a skiing experience. I try to buy gear on sale, but boots are the one thing I'll buy at retail if it means I get a good fit. Go to a reputable shop with a good bootfitter and buy something that fits your foot well out of the box. Get said bootfitter to modify shell and liner as necessary to get the boot to fit perfectly. Hint: If they don't take the liner out and fit the shell to your foot, it's not a real ski shop. Also, they should hurt a bit for the first 10 days until the liner packs out or they'll be too big. Good advice above on the skis: 95-105, rockered tip, 8-9 lb for the pair (weight measured in the 180 ish length, though the length you buy will depend on the height). I'd seriously check out the Praxis Backcountry, as well as the Moment PB&J. Both have gotten excellent reviews. Full carbon offerings from DPS and PM Gear. The Vicik from ON3P is on the heavier side of things, but might be worth a try. At your size, I'd shoot for something between 170 and 180 (though 185 isn't out of the question). Oh, and the K2 Coomback is a pretty well-liked, known ski. As far as tech changing - Trogdor is right about Dynafit's offerings for next season. Definitely a step up from the past. I've got my eye on the Vulcan for sure, even though I just bought new touring boots at the start of this season. But these boots will likely not be found on sale and retail will be steep.
  11. Great stories, Dane! I have a number of girls with whom I climb (no gf though). If I had a girlfriend who wanted to climb a bunch, I'd prefer to let my girl partners take her out for a bit so she didn't have to deal with me pushing and prodding. Random story: I was friends with this girl who said she climbed in the gym. So I asked her if she wanted to go outside one day. I showed up at her house to pick her up, and we chatted for a while before I asked if she was read to go. She was like "wait, you were serious about going climbing?" Gah!
  12. we are all f'in pansies

    This was great! Thanks for posting.
  13. Tent help

    When I was looking I didn't include the Stephenson tents or the super light BD bivy tents (Firstlight etc.) in my list of tents becuase of their limited usage. Those tents are made for alpine / snow only and aren't so great in rainy environments. If I were looking only for a high alpine bivy tent I'd go with the Firstlight. Yeah, I have the Firstlight as well, and definitely agree that it shouldn't be used in the rain. Didn't realize that was also true of the Stephenson's tents also...do you have any reason for grouping those two together other than the weight? In other words, how do you know the Stephenson's performs poorly in rain? I've been looking intermittently, but never came across a review stating something to that effect.
  14. Weekend climbing pack question

    Hey dude, sorry for treating you a bit like a noob in my post. Misread your experience level and completely missed the fact that your current 30L is a CiloGear. I'll leave the future recommendations to those more experienced than I.
  15. Tent help

    What about the Stephenson's Warmlite tents? I personally own the Integral Designs MK1XL, but I've always wondered if the Warmlite tents perform as well as they claim. If so, they're lighter than any other tent on the market. To add to your chart: Stephenson's Warmlite 2R / 134 / 60 / 41-26 / 2lbs 12oz / $500+options = ~$575 Stephenson's Warmlite 2C / 110 / 60 / 41-26 / 2lbs 9.5oz / $500+options = ~$575
  16. Weekend climbing pack question

    First of all, I would recommend something in the 60-65L range. Anything less and I think you'll be annoyed trying to cram everything in. Secondly, I'd recommend you take a trip to one of the great shops in the Seattle area (if you're relatively close) like Feathered Friends, Second Ascent, Marmot Mountain Works, etc, and have one of their knowledgeable staff help you decide on the pack that suits your needs and fits you best. That said: I have the Osprey Exposure 50 (think they quit making it), and I find it a little too small for my needs on a 3-5 mountaineering trip, even fully extended. I do like it, though. I also have an Arc'Teryx Bora 80 (given to me as a gift), which is a heavy clunker that I only use for extended backpacking trips if I absolutely can't fit my gear into the 50L. I try to pack as light as I can, but there's only so much you can leave out and still maintain some margin of error (food and fuel are the only extras I bring). Perhaps you pack lighter, though, and can get away with something 50L. Personally, it's not worth the hassle of trying to stuff everything into a 50L... ...which is why I plan to get the Cilo Gear 60L Worksack as soon as I start getting steady paychecks in the fall. If you're wealthy (or just a gearwhore), they offer the pack in dyneema - but they do charge an arm and a leg, to be warned. (Though I was told that the company's profit is the almost the same between the two versions; the difference in cost is almost entirely materials.) The pack can be stripped down to a light weight for smaller loads by removing the framesheet. Plus, compartments can be compressed eliminating extra space. I should note that I have no experience with the pack other than playing with one in Feathered Friends, and desperately wanting it.
  17. Washington Alpine Classics

    PM sent.
  18. Potentially interested - I may need to have knee surgery this summer though. If not, it means the rehab on the knee will have worked, and I'd be down for easy stuff.
  19. Leavenworth ice

    I may be interested. PM sent.
  20. This is the definition of badass. The quality of the photos is just absurd. You just made studying for finals so much harder. Please keep the trip reports coming! All of them are amazing. I really can't get over how awesome these are.
  21. Yeah, I figured it was City Park. Let's see, Todd Skinner led it first, and I can't remember the other two off the top of my head. One was a double amputee though. Okay, I just looked it up, but I won't spoil the fun. EDIT: I think there were 4 free ascents...
  22. Random, but what route is the photo for the poster of?
  23. Waiting for the snow

    Nice dude, I have the same setup - Dukes on Zealots. Only skied one day on them last season before I had to leave on a ship for two months. So stoked for this season!
  24. Beginning Alpine

    PM sent.