robertjoy

See this section regarding Restrictions on the Boundary Trail. No Dogs Allowed! https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/giffordpinchot/recreation/recarea/?recid=70784&actid=51

People climb it year round... but, You correctly identified the "prime season" for climbing Mt Hood. Climbing in winter is very dependent on weather, and if you do not live in the area, it is pretty impractical to choose your climb date a month in advance to get days off work and reserve a plane flight from Colorado. Many non-locals have died in winter because they have "over-invested" and misjudge the danger factors on the day of their summit attempt. Summer is much less dangerous, but some of more interesting routes are not doable after the "season" is finished. And the "volcanic rubble" is off-putting to some.

I thought snow levels were 6% of normal... I can't see much scree there at all!

For a first pair of crampons I would strongly suggest steel rather than aluminum. There are many situations where aluminum crampons are not so good, but if they are all you have, you will wear down the points, be too lazy to re-sharpen, and regret trading functional flexibility for such a tiny weight reduction. The only down side to steel is about 7oz (200g) of extra weight. I like my BD Contact Strap at 808g. and the Grivels at 900g are pretty comparable. Grivel aluminum crampons are about 600g.

Washington is packed with wonderful 'easy' peaks, but you have never climbed ANY mountain? Fitness level is not a qualifier, and 'lifelong dream' is not qualifier. If Mt Rainier were a serious goal, you would have at least read FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, and climbed at least five 'easy' peaks. How about climbing Mt Ellinor in April, on snow, as a substitute for glacier experience? If you want a shortcut to the summit, a guide service is the way to go.

I used a similar pair when I started. The old style traps are a real pain to put on or off, especially on steep terrain or blizzard conditions. After trying many styles over the years, I have finally settled on the Black Diamond Contact Strap, which is very light, easily adjustable without tools, quick to put on, and durable enough as it is made of stainless steel. I just check on ebay, 'new' only $70. These are the best for all-round use.

For heel blisters I use Band-Aid blister cushions, using benzoin to prep the area. For other areas I use Leukotape (sticks well and does not foul up those $20 Merino socks). Fitting boots is very personal. I fit my mid-weight leather mountaineering boots rather snug, and wear only one pair of relatively thin wool socks. For winter conditions I wear plastic boots which have room for very thick socks. http://www.amazon.com/Band-Aid-Adhesive-Bandages-Multi-Day-Protection/dp/B005CPGN1S/ref=pd_sim_hpc_4

I am 5'9", and my solo tent is the Sierra Designs LightYear 1, at 3lbs. Less condensation than a single wall, much cheaper.

To address the question of rechargeable Lithium batteries. For several years I have been using Sanyo ENELOOP rechargeable NiMH batteries in my headlamps, and GPS. They are incredible, and, like Lithium, are resistant to losing power in low temps. They come in AA or AAA size, and also in two power/lifetime versions. http://www.eneloop.info/eneloop-products/eneloop-batteries/eneloop.html

In general, I would never carry gear on my harness loops if I were carrying a pack larger than a super-small (class 5) summit pack. My regular alpine summit pack (37liters) has a padded waist belt, so I choose to "rack" my gear from a runner looped diagonal around my neck and over one shoulder. I find that in a situation such as a crevasse fall/rescue, it can be very awkward to unclip gear from a harness.

Climbing and leading for 15 years. I use the SMC "half-tube" snow stakes. I take enough to handle the entire stake-out, and do not rely on finding convenient rock, or logs at the bivy site. I do not bury my trekking poles or use snow pickets. (How can you go to the summit and leave your pickets behind?) Tech Tip: each snow stake has its own attached cord to use for girth hitching to the tent attachment points. I use ~2mm accessory cord. 30" length, threaded thru the two middle holes of the stake and tied into a loop with a double fisherman knot. This makes the stake easy to attach, easy to bury deep. Wind can come up when you are enroute to the summit, so it is prudent to stake your tent very securely.

Your hard shell will be worn when you are climbing in the COLD, and also when you are cooking a meal and the wind chill is at ZERO DEGREES. As others have mentioned, your shell should fit easily over ALL of your insulation layers. For me, my layers in winter may include my DAS sythetic parka, a well as my polarguar vest. This means my shell fits loose when I am actually climbing. As I sweat a lot, I often climb in wearing my soft shell jacket, but I have never had a problem with the "loose" fit of my shell.

Winterize your GU! A few ounces of GU is a lifesaver when the temp is so cold you can't bear to choke down a bagel, or even take off your gloves. I make homemade "GU" with a blend of brown rice syrup and agave nectar. For winter use I add about 15% vodka so that even at 20degrees, the GU will flow thru the snap-top of the 4oz plastic squeeze flask.

In an emergency you may need to dig a small snow cave or trench shelter. In the Northwest our snow pack is OFTEN very hard, with icy layers. In my experience teaching snow cave classes for many years, anything less than a metal shovel is quite likely to be insufficient to move the snow. This means that the "lightweight" plastic snow shovel is also not able to handle icy layers. When you are compelled to bivy above the treeline, it is dark, 20degrees, wind 30mph, you will rely on safety equipment which is effective. These ultra-lightweight options may be effective in Rocky Mountain powder, but around here they are most often useless.

I own both stoves. I purchased the REACTOR for two reasons: 1. greater wind resistance which can be VERY important when cooking high above treeline, and 2. the larger capacity is necessary for efficient snow-melting. I actually use the Reactor on only two or three climbs per year (for melting snow). Melting snow for a party of TWO could be very time consuming using the SOL, especially if windy. If, like me, you need to melt snow only a few time per year, I would suggest you get the SOL plus a good windscreen, and have your climbing partner bring his own stove setup if snow melting will be required.

Your Garmin 60CSX has an altimeter, so you don't need another one on your watch. You can check your heartbeat the old fashioned way: by counting the beats for 15 seconds and multiplying by four. All you need is a $13 Casio Illuminator alarm/chrono, with split times for running, alarm, water resist. Casio Illuminator Digital Watch $13

Apparntly a caving rope.... (static)

I am a "heavy sweater", and in my experience foot perspiration is a primary contributor to blisters. I have found that using "Certain Dri" antiperspirant for several days before a climb or long approach reduces foot perspiration almost completely. With perspiration reduced or eliminated, any tape will adhere better. I have recently begun using Leukotape, which adheres very strongly, resists any moisture, and the adhesive doesn't gunk up my expensive wool socks, like Duct tape does.

"If the mountain truly wants to kill you it will find a way." I believe most of the risks inherent in mountaineering are quite mundane and predictable; that is why many have remarked about your apparent lack of preparation and experience. When the Ranger is inquiring about your experience and preparation, please be sure to repeat the comments you have made in this forum. I'm sure the ranger will find your bravado refreshing.

I have been climbing in Lowa Mountain Experts for a couple of years now, and I find them to be "perfect" for mixed mountaineering in the Northwest. My son has replaced his Trangos with a warmer boot, and considers them too light (ie cold) for the larger snowy peaks, and certainly not for winter conditions. The Lowas are insulated, which gives them a wide range of usefulness. They are quite a bit less burly than the LS Nepal Evo Gtx, which means they are more agile and suited to rocky routes and long approaches. On major peaks such as Ranier and Shasta, I prefer my plastic boots because they can better handle extreme cold and extended days on wet snow.

While spending a few days in the Lemah Valley/Spectacle Lake area we were awesomely shocked by the daily flyby of a jet fighter. It was really low. My estimate is that it was maybe 300ft above Pete Lake. We saw it twice, and the second time we were on the PCT at about 3800ft, and it was well below us. Is this standard procedure?

Look at the Osprey Aether 60. Osprey packs are well made and are very functional for mountaineering. By reputation, they are VERY comfortable for most people.

I'm planning to climb Black Peak this weekend with a few friends. I notice that you show a NINE HOUR APPROACH to Wing Lake, and a THREE HOUR return from Wing Lake to the trailhead. Can you add some information about the approach? A couple years ago, without snow it it took only about 4 hours for the (4mi) approach.

Planning to go up with my wife in a couple of weeks. How much snow is there in the gully on the south ridge? Is it a snow climb, or the regular 3rd class scramble?

You mentioned "no snow at 2,500ft. Ranger told me I can't drive to the lower Ellinor trailhead at 2,600ft. What is your opinion on that?