Mt Hood

[twgreene]

I am considering driving down from Canada to climb mount hood Saturday morning. I will most likely be solo and therefore sticking to the basic Hogsback route, with a possible ski descent of Old Chute if conditions look favorable.

 

How are the current climbing conditions? It looks like a substantial amount of new snow has fallen in the last week or two. I would like to know what the current avalanche hazard level is and whether there are any open crevasses or glide cracks that may be obscured by the newer snow. With the colder temperatures forecast for today and Friday I believe Saturday should be pretty good?

 

If anybody is planning a Saturday climb and wouldn't mind an extra party member I would be interested in joining a group too.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

Edited May 26, 2016 by twgreene

[Ben Beckerich]

Lots of recent temperature variation.. unless it warms up rapidly on Saturday (last forecast I saw said it was gonna be cold), you aren't gonna have any avi concerns.

 

We were up there Tuesday.. the schrund had finally opened up - visible and easily passed.. newly opening fumerole holes on both sides of the crater floor.. some glide cracks closer to the headwall at the bottom of the old chute - just scope them out on the way up so you know where to ski down

 

if weather cooperates, you should have success and a nice descent

Edited May 26, 2016 by Ben Beckerich

[Eastcoaster]

Hi everyone, I'll be flying out to Portland this weekend to climb up Hood. I noticed the weather has been warm, and is predicted to be warm this weekend. Does anyone have an update on recent conditions?

 

Thanks!

[Patarero]

Hi everyone, I'll be flying out to Portland this weekend to climb up Hood. I noticed the weather has been warm, and is predicted to be warm this weekend. Does anyone have an update on recent conditions?

 

Thanks!

 

Standard south side pearly gates were decent on 6/1. Clouds and cool breeze kept it cool, stayed solid all morning. Should be some creamy turns off the top through the old chute this weekend though.

[Autoxfil]

What's the current sitation on the North side? I assume Eliot/Sunshine are in good shape - what about the N. Face?

[dfhkvs]

see my report on Snow Dome from last weekend. Good photo there showing conditions. Have more photos if you want.

[Alpenglow18]

Anyone been up the south side recently? Conditions?

[bluto]

Took some friends up sunday. There was a lot of fresh snow. Enough that self arresting wasn't even necessary (my buddy accidentally tested this)! The old chute and mazama chute were both a bit icy, but still as easy as I've ever seen them.

 

Anyway, pictures...

[Alpenglow18]

Nice! So you took the old chute up as opposed to the pearly gates?

[bluto]

Yep, the bergschrund was pretty wide open at that point. You could probably end run it if you were set on the pearly gates, but the old chute was the path of least resistance

[thatcher]

Anyone been up sunshine route or seen Elliot glacier conditions recently. Looking to get up there this weekend. Any beta would be nice.

 

Thanks

[jimw]

Not sure if this is helpful, but I was up on Cooper Spur/NE face on 7/6 (not really a climber, I went to snowboard down it). Posted a TR with a bunch of pics here.

 

Here's a pic:

 

[ktenny]

Has anyone climbed the south side/hogsback route recently? I'm thinking about hiking it this upcoming week and I have no idea how the conditions are...

 

Thanks!

[Chris47]

I'm looking for the same details, plan to drive from Portland on Friday or Saturday night after midnight (July 22 or 23)

I'd welcome to go with someone else.

Thank you for any info you can provide.

[cwired]

I was up there yesterday (Sunday 7/17/16). I wore running shoes and micro-spikes to the top of Palmer, then switched to boots/crampons. Went up Old Chute.

 

The 'schrund is almost car size... maybe a Smart car. Old Chute was icy at the top - moderately good boot pack traversing from Hogs back. No one was going through Pearly Gates.

 

Good tent sites all over the place below Crater Rock.

 

Some pics (apologies for the large, misoriented pics. that's how they display here.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2016 by cwired

[Chris47]

Would you like to hike it together this weekend? Friday or Saturday night, you decide. Please email me at

peter_john777@yahoo.com

I have all the gear, I just hate to go alone. I have plenty of experience, never hiked Hood as I just moved to Portland a few months ago.

Thank you.

[Ben Beckerich]

Is that stupid fuckin "summit register" not still up there?

[Ptown_Climber1]

Would you like to hike it together this weekend? Friday or Saturday night, you decide. Please email me at

peter_john777@yahoo.com

I have all the gear, I just hate to go alone. I have plenty of experience, never hiked Hood as I just moved to Portland a few months ago.

Thank you.

 

First thing to make clear, Hood is not a 'hike'. It's a climb....and it's getting late in season...be wary of rockfall and poor snow conditions.

[Ptown_Climber1]

Anyone been up sunshine route or seen Elliot glacier conditions recently. Looking to get up there this weekend. Any beta would be nice.

 

Thanks

I posted a trip report couple weeks back, over 4th of July weekend....bridges getting pretty weak....beware of punching through around Horseshoe Rock!

[Chris47]

You're right, my bad, it's a climb.

I'm still looking for someone for this Friday or Sat night.

[RTHo]

I just climbed it yesterday (July 23) and conditions are definitely not the greatest. Would like to climb it again next year earlier in the season.

[mzamp]

I would like to get some input from the more experienced in this group. I was planning a trip with my GF next May up the Old Chute. However, some friends are headed to the Columbia gorge in early April for a running race. I thought it would be fun to move our trip up so we could join them. So...

 

Are late May versus early April conditions drastically different. Meaning would one give us a much better chance of success over the other regarding typical weather and snow conditions? Will the route likely be booted in in April?

 

Some Background:

I have some alpine experience (Rainier Kautz route, Athabasca, Mt Temple, Sir Donald, Bugaboo Spire), but consider myself a beginner for leading alpine climbs due to snow/glacier travel, not rope skills. She is a beginner in alpine climbing. She has very little experience on snow limited to a few training outings we have done in Colorado (self arrest, roped glacier travel). She does ice climb, knows self rescue from our canyoneering and we did a early summer ascent of Whitney that required traction.

 

Thanks for any and all info...

[ScaredSilly]

With either month it can be blue bird or pissing sideways. So no not drastically different. You will see fewer people in April. In May I would not be on the South side during the weekend unless you like being in a Congo line.

[Bosterson]

I have some alpine experience (Rainier Kautz route, Athabasca, Mt Temple, Sir Donald, Bugaboo Spire), but consider myself a beginner for leading alpine climbs due to snow/glacier travel, not rope skills. She is a beginner in alpine climbing. She has very little experience on snow limited to a few training outings we have done in Colorado (self arrest, roped glacier travel). She does ice climb, knows self rescue from our canyoneering and we did a early summer ascent of Whitney that required traction.

 

Old Chute is a walk up, especially in April/May when it's unlikely to be icy. No need to take a rope, especially if you don't plan to place anchors and belay. Just cross your fingers for good weather and check the NWAC forecast if it's recently stormed. The later you go (May vs April), the earlier you should make your alpine start - both for safety and to avoid the hordes (the Chute seems less crowded at 5-6am...).

[Water]

i prefer april, assuming you had good weather. but you are perhaps slightly more likely to have good weather in later May. Warmer for sure.