bobbyperu Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 cause i'm a lame ass today, i've been scrolling through this shit and am kinda bored so i thought i might try and open up a can of worms... for those who dig on the alpine rock climbs in this state, a question; whats the overall coolest most continually classic line you've sent or wish to send? comeon chest beaters this is your chance let the cc.comers know how roudy you get! oh and i read aboot some link-ups in the alpine lakes area, cool, right on! thats interesting for sure. these climbs and link-ups are the way in this state. those with imagination will find limitless possibilities... who knows i am psyched to hear all your thoughts, and talk some shit too... something intersting, please! bored... (i know only boring people.. well i'm the biggest thing to hit big tuna since the twister of '86. and speaking of jack, one eyed jacks a yearning to go a peepin in a seafood store. bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Da TOOF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 2, 2002 Author Share Posted July 2, 2002 yep! dru i always knew you had it in you... all the info about everydamn thing, but how about and original idea... i'm hangin on you every post, really. oh and canada too you got to have some historical, or up to the second info on the next coolest thing or the most historical event in canadian moutaineering, bring it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 face it bobby, it is just a boring day today... we should all leave and go climb right NOW!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bobbyperu: yep! dru i always knew you had it in you... all the info about everydamn thing, but how about and original idea... i'm hangin on you every post, really. oh and canada too you got to have some historical, or up to the second info on the next coolest thing or the most historical event in canadian moutaineering, bring it! Siwash Rock being climbed on skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 I second DA TOOF! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 2, 2002 Author Share Posted July 2, 2002 cpt. you need a rope for that? wow the folks on this site really get out... and are super stoked on climbing, or maybe just too modest to talk about things they've done and dug, or maybe like i thought just unmotivated and un-imaginative, well anyway lets all chat about useless shit like forest passes, people getting whacked, and where we can all get together and chugg, sweet!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bobbyperu: cpt. you need a rope for that? wow the folks on this site really get out... and are super stoked on climbing, or maybe just too modest to talk about things they've done and dug, or maybe like i thought just unmotivated and un-imaginative, well anyway lets all chat about useless shit like forest passes, people getting whacked, and where we can all get together and chugg, sweet!! Uhhhh, ok you start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 I told you to leave and go climb!!!!! quit your bitchin' , you first... what's your best route??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Dude, get with the program. We have discussed it all. I am sure lots of people have done cool stuff but let me tell you -we love to spray people like that. If you really want to chat start this post - Bolts: how to make any route an A1 or maybe discuss the properties of bong smoke at 10,000ft in a hut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 2, 2002 Author Share Posted July 2, 2002 well as far as rock goes i'd have to say i really dig the east buttress of s. early winter spire at wa. pass, also makes a good link-up with the w.face on n.e.w.s for a 15 or so pitch day with little travel on s. arete between routes, and very little hiking. another favorite in another area is colchuck balanced rock w.face, really good rock, great exposure, fine position, etc, etc,. another good alpine link-up is the wine spire traverse: starty on e.side climb chablis via normale, s. face pernod, rap back down chablis, replenish water on glacier, climb regel yell, on chianti, the whole time in the sun, ahhh, then traverse around burgundy col, and finish on the n.w. route, be sure to climb the squeese chimney, then descend back to col. still in the sun, what do you got? bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 no shit let's talk about me i am a sexy beast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 i like to climb as many routes on the wa pass spires....nw corner/w face stuff like that... Â i also dream all the time of the dolphin chimmeny on the sews.......what i a horror show!!! and i want to be part of it!!!!!! Â also climbing scw as many times as you can in a day is a good way to earn your beer....i've done it 3 times in a day!!!! Â my brain is on overdrive right now...so i'll give ya some more lata...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 2, 2002 Author Share Posted July 2, 2002 matt, the route on c.b.r. does have a mellow descent, scrambling minimal, my girlfriend and i wore rock shoes the whole way down to our packs below the face, i belive its the south side you come down good scree skiing in late season, then a hike with a little shwackiness back to the lake. i've heard the petit grepon is really cool and the passanger and indy routes at the pass are on the list, congrats on your ascents, did you find the passanger to be as sustained as burdo makes it out to be? i've rope soloed the first pitch and living in the area i'm totoally drawn to that s. side of sews, wonder if any of the crack systems farther west would go clean and possibly free, ie; midnite ride area, who knows? if youre thinking of doin the w.face on c.b.r go for it its really fun! and the .12 part is well protected and not very hard, i'm sure you'd have a blast, the quality of rock, the crazy lichen streaks all neon and shit, and the dihederal and roof pitches are some of the best we've ever climbed, looks good as of recent, was thinkin of headin into the area to make camp and try for some cool link-ups, anyway thanx for your post, and you must've been with kiemo, on vanishing point? any word on the descent route off minus fixed lines or are they still up? cheers bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sk: fat crack...I love it.... I knew you and Trask had something goin'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 NO WAY it is actualy a climb that I realy love Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 2, 2002 Author Share Posted July 2, 2002 erik, right on, sounds like wa.pass has you under its spell too... the dolfhin chimney is pretty rowdy, and not alot of gear or chockstones as the book says, some shit in the way back but its scary back there, the lipout of it has better pro and its a good thing... the boving roofs are a fun feature on that w.face of sews, sweet scw linkup, what three orbit, outerspace, and ?? simul-climbin or what... sounds fun, hope thinking about this shit fires you up a little more that the alternatives, i'm shakin up yo pauty, like lauty dotty, is he the dopest?, ya betta, ax sombody, snoop d-o double d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 No all time favs here. It all boils down to the entire experience which means partners, accomplishment, scenery, quality, enjoyment, and even most of all season. The winter season can change a mountain and route in more ways than one. Â I can find new climbing experiences every season that surpass the last one's. It's not about a large or perfect rock route all the time. Â I climb for me and not for the chestbeating. Although if I get a good photo I will post it here once in a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 YEAH BOB Â wa pass has my #........ Â so've crawled inside that beast eh??? tell me more.....cuz i wanna make tuna outta dolphin..... Â that midnight ride area looks like it could hold some of the next awesome hard sheiit....too bad it is above my hard 4th clas limit!!!! maybe next year!! Â shoot me an email....or pm....i got thr last weekend of the month slated for a some secret sheeit.....maybe it aint that secret but i like to think sooo...build up my 4th class chet a bit.... Â also not in wa is the tricks of trade chimmneys....it has given me a real appreciation for hard/scary dirt....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 2, 2002 Author Share Posted July 2, 2002 cpt. uhh right on... yeah i guess you summed up what this original thread was all about. reliving good times in the mountains, i'm stoked to hear that you dont like to chestbeat, very admirable, and i hope you can see the conection some folks might have with favorite climbs, and best times in the mountains... well as it goes i'd love for anyone to talk about anything that makes them feel all warm and fuzzy inside, whatever the season, whatever the reason, especially if "its all for themselves" i personally don't climb for me most of the time, usually i'm with my mate and partner and thats what i'm all about, climbing makes for good set in our little movie, erik; that chimmney is pretty flaring ie: the farther back inside the tighter it is, theres also tha potential for wider more comfy stemming for folks like myself who are 6'+ and scared of the dark bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 For alpine rock, I think the Bugaboos is hard to beat. The Beckey Chouinard route(W. Buttress of S. Howser) is an absolutely fantactic climb, and one that I climbed early on in my career. I have fond memories of the climb, and of my first alpine bivouac which followed from our getting benighted on the descent. However, for just plain fun, the W. Ridge of Pidgeon Spire is impossible to beat. At third and fourth class with one 5.4 pitch at the top, it will not gain any chestbeating points, but the route traverses impeccable rock for a quarter mile, high in the sky above real glaciers, and culminates in a very airy summit. Somebody once wrote that "if you don't enjoy that climb you just don't enjoy being in the mountains." I agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 The last guy to call me buttplugger was kicked off this site. hmmm. . . Â Anyway, I had a bunch of favorite climbs and stuff and then I went to the valley and discovered a heavan with less than 10mile approaches. I just like to climb though. I guess at heart my favorite routes involve long sections of clean rock and awesome cracks, chimneys, and wild exposure. I really enjoyed the Steck-Salathe route on the Sentinel and half dome. Doing my first climb on El Cap was humbling too. I guess each time I go to climb I take away so much. They are some of the best memories of my life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 my favorite climb is the next one.  altho right now im a bit obsessed about an unclimbed thing up in cheakamus canyon...#4 camalot required, to keep sport climbers away from it  OH yeah did I mention the Cougar Direct route on Horsecock Spire? You climb up this obvious gully (4th class with some looseness and aid moves) to a spectacular hemlock belay then move left on small finger holds around an overhanging off-squeeze bombay chimney to steep runous up dirt and shrubs to a cave. Fight off bees here and move past a couple of duct-taped skyhooks to a large ledge (bivy with trophy-sized rodents and running water). The next 17 pitches are obvious. Near the summit climb through a cannon hole and over loose flakes (exposure) to a final classic grunt move up a two-bolt bolt ladder and use a shoulder stand to bypass worm moves through a "prayer box" into an eroded trough which leads indirectly to the summit. The descent is obvious 3rd class with some bushes and possibility of snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: my favorite climb is the next one. Â OH yeah did I mention the Cougar Direct route on Horsecock Spire? You climb up this obvious gully (4th class with some looseness and aid moves) to a spectacular hemlock belay then move left on small finger holds around an overhanging off-squeeze bombay chimney to steep runous up dirt and shrubs to a cave. Fight off bees here and move past a couple of duct-taped skyhooks to a large ledge (bivy with trophy-sized rodents and running water). The next 17 pitches are obvious. Near the summit climb through a cannon hole and over loose flakes (exposure) to a final classic grunt move up a two-bolt bolt ladder and use a shoulder stand to bypass worm moves through a "prayer box" into an eroded trough which leads indirectly to the summit. The descent is obvious 3rd class with some bushes and possibility of snow. i thought that was the butt direct on mt yourmomma!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Yeah, the passenger is sustained. Combining the 2nd and 3rd pitches makes for one of the nicest pitches up at Washington pass. Also combine the crux pitch with the traverse to the bombay flare. Cool thing about the passenger is the variety of climbing. Â Re Colchuck. So, if we're camping up on the plateau around prusik or whatever, we'd have to hike to asgard, go down asgard, hike to the route, do the route, descend back to our packs, and then hike back up asgard to return to camp and our friends? Bogus. Any possibility of just topping out on the balanced rock and traversing straight to the plateau? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.