rock-ice Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 Not sure if this video has been posted before. . . Pretty funny, though. Old School Ratings Quote
builder206 Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) In the last 4 weeks, two Mounties have given me dire warnings about Midway and Saber. Supposedly they are "old school" grades, really more like 5.8 under a fair & rational grading system. Edited May 18, 2011 by builder206 Quote
rob Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 I saw some mounties gives DIRE warnings to someone hiking up Mt. Si in a pair of jeans once. COTTON KILLS!!! Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 In the last 4 weeks, two Mounties have given me dire warnings about Midway and Saber. Supposedly they are "old school" grades, really more like 5.8 under a fair & rational grading system. "Weekend Rock" tries to normalize grades across the routes they list and I believe they put Midway and Sabre at 5.6. No way they are 5.8. :-) Quote
DPS Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) In the last 4 weeks, two Mounties have given me dire warnings about Midway and Saber. Supposedly they are "old school" grades, really more like 5.8 under a fair & rational grading system. I've done both. To me Saber feels like a solid 5.7, Midway solid 5.5, both in the same vein that Dog Leg Crack is 5.8+. Probably no individual move is harder than those ratings, but the routes may feel somewhat more athletic and technical than routes of the same grade at Vantage or Little Si. Edited May 18, 2011 by DPS Quote
rob Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 ...in the same vein that Dog Leg Crack is 5.8+ The "+" is for the oh-my-god. Quote
DPS Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 The + is for the slippery 5.10b crux that starts 20 feet off the ground and ends 20 feet below the tree. Quote
pms Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 Midway felt like solid 5.9 to me a couple weeks ago. Some key holds must be missing. Quote
builder206 Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) Oh great, now it's a .9. I'll take my SPOT beacon. Edited May 18, 2011 by builder206 Quote
builder206 Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 Before mattp went to the Gunks last week, someone told me about some sort of overhanging 5.2 there as a joke to illustrate how hardcore their grades are. Now he comes back with his TR and by God, there IS overhanging 5.easy! Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 Midway felt like solid 5.9 to me a couple weeks ago. Some key holds must be missing. On which pitch? Quote
cbcbd Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Midway felt like solid 5.9 to me a couple weeks ago. Some key holds must be missing. On which pitch? 1st pitch. Must've been when the Jello Tower toppled over in the beginning of April, during the mudslide events in the Tumwater and Icicle. Related to that, SF of Jello Tower felt like a Gunks 5.7 to me when I first climbed it, having just come from the EC. Quote
Drederek Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Related to that, SF of Jello Tower felt like a Gunks 5.7 to me when I first climbed it, having just come from the EC. Thats what it was rated the first time I led it. Quote
Layback Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Related to that, SF of Jello Tower felt like a Gunks 5.7 to me when I first climbed it, having just come from the EC. My thoughts exactly. WA ratings are soft (and I'm one of those horrible Mounties). I wonder if those "Mounties" Builder was talking about weren't just your average internet sprayer... WA is the only state I've been able to lead a 5.9. On the east coast I'm a 5.7 leader at best. Where are you from on the East Coast Drederik? Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 I found Midway to be kind of difficult at the top. Maybe it was because I was pretty run out and kind of nervous, so I did it weird. Quote
Layback Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 The following images are circa 2000 incase the mullet offends ya'. Jeff on "Jackie", a Gunks 5.5: Yours truly topping out on the 2nd pitch of "Jackie", which goes at 5.2: Quote
Jens Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Once you hit the 5.11's out east the ratings are the same and the 12s are softer than then here. Quote
Drederek Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Where are you from on the East Coast Drederik? East coast of the Willamette river, originally from Orygun Quote
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