Extreme Alpinism

[specialed]

Heat exchangers for canister stoves are common.

[Jedi]

As long as Jedi does not write a book everyone will be happy.

 

[Nick]

I enjoy Marc Twight's writing. He seems to me to have his tongue in his cheek most of the time. Whatever.

[Alex]

I re-skimmed my copy last night, its a good read and has lots of good and useful information. I found it amusing that in many pictures MFT uses Black Diamond tools and equipment

[Bill_Simpkins]

An updated edition would be nice considering that ourdoor clothing and equipment has changed dramatically in the last few years.

Soft shells, new pack material, lighter tents/Bivy sacks, climbing gear etc...

Maybe a paragraph or two on layering with softshells.

[dbconlin]

But mark twight does talk about layering with softshells in the book. He doesn't explicitly say "softshell" but refers to stretch woven materials from schoeller, which I interpret as softshell. He emphasizes choosing breathability over waterproofness because "it will get wet anyway" and if it is raining you shouldn't be there.

 

Not that an update wouldn't be helful.

 

I've begun packing w/o hardshell for some of my recent trips and haven't missed it yet (I live in CO, where it is relatively dry, though). thermal top + softshell + down jacket suits most conditions fine.

[dbconlin]

I don't get the comment about Black Diamond above. He seams to exlicitly worship the company in the text, expecially their carbon fiber tools. Did they have some falling out recently, or something?

 

One of the most useful aspects of the book is all the real-life stories and f***-ups. He has tried everything and some of it DID NOT WORK and we get to learn from those mistakes without putting our own a**es in such grave danger. Yay.

[Squid]

MFT runs Grivel North America these days.

[specialed]

Wut I don't get though is that Twight recomends "eating" three GUs every hour during a climb. Frequently climbs last 12, 15, even 20 hours. So does he advocate carrying sixty GU's! That's a lot of fuckin GU.

[Alpinfox]

I don't get the comment about Black Diamond above. He seams to exlicitly worship the company in the text, expecially their carbon fiber tools. Did they have some falling out recently, or something?

 

One of the most useful aspects of the book is all the real-life stories and fuck-ups. He has tried everything and some of it DID NOT WORK and we get to learn from those mistakes without putting our own asses in such grave danger. Yay.

 

Thank you for allow anti-censor to post.

 

-----------------------------------

 

putting the "uck" back in "Fuck".

[olyclimber]

And that would give you the serious shits eating that much GU!

[specialed]

GU actually has the opposite effect on me.

[Squid]

Thanks for sharing.

[iain]

You can re-eat your feces on an all-gu diet and get another dose of energy. It even tastes better, though it is still very sticky.

[specialed]

Twight's publisher wisely must have edited that chapter out of "Extreme Alpinism."

[iain]

Which is odd, because it would fit nicely in the character and suffering section. I swear it's like eating a log of marzipan.

[specialed]

Or Halva.

[iain]

I'd rather eat a kentucky-fried butter stick wrapped in a donut.

[specialed]

Go to a state fair. They have those on a stick.

[iain]

right on, there's no finer meal while listening to BTO live.

[specialed]

You can re-eat your feces on an all-gu diet and get another dose of energy. It even tastes better, though it is still very sticky.

 

Hopefully, Desk Driver will weigh in on this one.

[iain]

it would make my 5th grade day

[chucK]

whole lotta gu, err... cliff shots

[Jedi]

Wut I don't get though is that Twight recomends "eating" three GUs every hour during a climb. Frequently climbs last 12, 15, even 20 hours. So does he advocate carrying sixty GU's! That's a lot of fuckin GU.

 

Ideally, this would keep insulin levels up and would supply needed glucose but I think Mark knows this is not practical (due to the weight of the GU & remembering to eat it).

I don't think they carried more than 50 or 60 GU's each, on the Czech Direct over a 60 hour period.

 

I have never eaten more than 12 GU's during an effort. I just can't remember to eat then every 45 minutes. 12 don't faze my stomach but I can't imagine 2 to 3 times that many.

[dbconlin]

Now you can get "flasks" for Gu or Cliff Shot and both of those brands sell their product in larger quantities (Clif Shot's looks like a shampoo bottle). So throw a 6 oz. flask in your chest pocket and take a suck every now and again. Yum!

 

But I'd take along a bagel or two, pre-spread with cheese and meat, anyway.

 

I don't know if they slept at all during the Czech Direct (those guys are crazy enough not to), but MT recommends other foods during bivys etc., just Gu for climbing.