Jump to content

before u start bitch'n'bout beacon


ivan

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 394
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

falcon soup :)

 

shit, that aint' bad!

 

I like "Falcon Soup" since its the only thing open during the closure, what the hell else are you going to do but have a bowl of "falcon soup". Maybe "falcon stew" would be better since it took a long time and a lot of work to put up. And a lot of random shit was thrown in there by the sounds of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys looks like my partner had to bail! Anyone interested in going up on "Stone Soup" this Thursday or Friday? I should have all the gear minus the offset aliens, but I could probably borrow some from my regular partner if need be. Even have extra ladders and a jumar(just one though)! I did Skull Queen in Yosemite last year and this has the same grade C2+ so I should feel fine leading any of those pitches. I'm training to hopfully do Mescalito this fall! Just send me a personal message if interested!

 

Rock on!

 

P.S. Dont listen to all the haters! Just climb!

Edited by Corduroy Man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

"falcon soup" sounds good to me too, "falcon stew" is even better :)

if jim aint' happy w/ it the bitch'n will continue so might as well make certain he don't think it's ghey

 

What is Jim's role in this route?

he doesn't need to have a role to have an opinion, as you know :)

 

if the original idea was in any way serious, to stop the bitching, i'll do my part and change a name - i just want everyone to agree

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"falcon soup" sounds good to me too, "falcon stew" is even better :)

if jim aint' happy w/ it the bitch'n will continue so might as well make certain he don't think it's ghey

 

What is Jim's role in this route?

 

um jim put up the first three pitches with me :crazy: what is your role kevin???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"falcon soup" sounds good to me too, "falcon stew" is even better :)

if jim aint' happy w/ it the bitch'n will continue so might as well make certain he don't think it's ghey

 

What is Jim's role in this route?

 

um jim put up the first three pitches with me :crazy: what is your role kevin???

 

and two more above that with marc :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys looks like my partner had to bail! Anyone interested in going up on "Stone Soup" this Thursday or Friday? I should have all the gear minus the offset aliens, but I could probably borrow some from my regular partner if need be. Even have extra ladders and a jumar(just one though)! I did Skull Queen in Yosemite last year and this has the same grade C2+ so I should feel fine leading any of those pitches. I'm training to hopfully do Mescalito this fall! Just send me a personal message if interested!

 

Rock on!

 

P.S. Dont listen to all the haters! Just climb!

if actually intersted, one and all, the route's probably no more than c1+ and doesnt' demand offsets (though a red/yellow alien for the final pitch sure is nice)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys looks like my partner had to bail! Anyone interested in going up on "Stone Soup" this Thursday or Friday? I should have all the gear minus the offset aliens, but I could probably borrow some from my regular partner if need be. Even have extra ladders and a jumar(just one though)! I did Skull Queen in Yosemite last year and this has the same grade C2+ so I should feel fine leading any of those pitches. I'm training to hopfully do Mescalito this fall! Just send me a personal message if interested!

 

Rock on!

 

P.S. Dont listen to all the haters! Just climb!

 

If you were asking for tomorrow, I might just be inclined to blow off class.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Uh...you guyz shouldn't really climb a route with a disputed name. Maybe if you got Pink's written permission....

 

 

first three pitches already have a name, all ivan had to do was fill in two more pitches and he'd have an independent line, while don't we tape some light bulbs on the rock and shove some mechanical shit in the cracks that i dug up from the junk yard and call it "art soup" :wave:

 

 

go eat some twinkies and post about something that you have knowledge of :)

 

 

there is a positive side to all of this, you and bill are playing on the same team again :)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was actually pretty excited to see what would come of this thread since I have been to beacon only a few times and it has drawn me in. This the place I want to climb because of the type of climbing that goes on out there (adventurous and, better yet, no gym rats) and I thought the group out there was a close-knit group. I am really disappointed with this thread though.

 

Ivan and Pink, a public internet forum is probably not the best place to figure out what is going on with this route. Why don't you two go out for a beer and get down to business where your sayings aren't on display for everyone and personas can be left at the door; the internet is not a good environment for this most of the time. You are both established climbers and are not setting a good example for others (nOObs like me in particular).

 

Personal attacks are going to get you nowhere on here...

 

Despite all this, I would still really like to get out there and check out this line sometime.

you haven't spent enough time out there, brah... i'm closer to the guys i climb with, at beacon, than i am to parts of my own family.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look, I didn't make my original comments for any other purpose than to have discussion about

the appropriateness of putting up an aid line line like this at Beacon (and in 2010). I

specifically wasn't and haven't been commenting on the difficulty of the line which is a

secondary concern for me if that.

 

And no aspect of what concerns me requires that I climb the route. I know Beacon, that

face, and what aiding is like out there well enough to know what it's about for my purposes.

And when I say 'aid renaissance' I'm pretty sure folks understand what I'm talking about -

more aiding has gone on at Beacon in the past three or four years than has been seen out there

in a couple of decades. I thought it was about gearing up for the Valley, not about putting up

routes like this locally. And that raises a fairly legitimate free vs. aid discussion and

about the nature of FAs out there.

 

Then there is the issue of BRSP and WSP involvement or lack thereof in terms of a missed

opportunity for a discussion around a route with this scale of fixed pro going up - but that's

largely on the BRSP and not Ivan, as Ivan repeatedly tried to do the right thing there, but the

park staff has just been too swamped with projects and changing of the guard to deal with it

all last year.

 

My sole concern and commenting is around the scale of fixed pro use, the 'naturalness' of any

line requiring that much fixed pro, and how appropriate such aid lines are out there.

It also brings into play previous discussions around issues of attempting to climb through some of the

upper NW face bands (further to the west).

 

At no point in any of this have I been angry, 'shrill', or really emotionally vested in it

at all and am still not. I also find the clanish nature on exhibit by some folks

where a criticism of a route is somehow an attack on the person and requires a clan response and

a rallying the troops to the defense with arguments, accusations, and slander that is neither

relevant nor useful.

 

My sole intent has been an attempt to have as calm a discussion as possible

around the line, not the people involved. Given it went up without any or much discussion

around the scope of the fixed pro involved, if we can't discuss it here openly after the fact and with at

least a measure of civility then, yeah, it's just another 'Beacon thread' and, oh well, another day

in the Gorge - c'est la vie.

 

[ Oh, and my original comment was based solely on the accuracy of the topo provided, if it

isn't correct then it should probably be revised to accurately reflect the fixed pro count

on the rock. (oh, and the big jpg's thing is kind of weak and doesn't change the conversation

at all from my perspective.) ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it was about gearing up for the Valley, not about putting up routes like this locally.

 

My sole concern and commenting is around the scale of fixed pro use, the 'naturalness' of any

line requiring that much fixed pro, and how appropriate such aid lines are out there.

for me at least, it was never about valley dreams - jeebus, there's no way to train for that besides just going there, or road tripping to index - i climb at beacon b/c, uh, i like climbing at beacon - where else can i climb on a weekly basis w/o pissing off my wife, my kids, my boss, my accountant, etc? :)

 

speaking of "natural lines" on that side doesn't mean much - there are no crack systems, nor is it a sheer rising wall - it's mostly about trying to stay out of the goddamn junky jumbled fucked up forest, connecting one bit of not-so-broken rock to another whilst also avoiding swimming through poison oak (can't bbelieve there's no one else up there!) :)

 

yer ma always says, when life hands you lemon, make lemonade in your pants, and that's what this has been about - accepting the winter for what it is and looking for a way to spend weekends having fun at beacon anyway - doesn't make a bit of sense to me how that wouldn't be a common sense adaption, but then i am not from around here...

Edited by ivan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was actually pretty excited to see what would come of this thread since I have been to beacon only a few times and it has drawn me in. This the place I want to climb because of the type of climbing that goes on out there (adventurous and, better yet, no gym rats) and I thought the group out there was a close-knit group. I am really disappointed with this thread though.

 

Ivan and Pink, a public internet forum is probably not the best place to figure out what is going on with this route. Why don't you two go out for a beer and get down to business where your sayings aren't on display for everyone and personas can be left at the door; the internet is not a good environment for this most of the time. You are both established climbers and are not setting a good example for others (nOObs like me in particular).

 

Personal attacks are going to get you nowhere on here...

 

Despite all this, I would still really like to get out there and check out this line sometime.

you haven't spent enough time out there, brah... i'm closer to the guys i climb with, at beacon, than i am to parts of my own family.

My mom asked me the other day why you were homeless?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...