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Regarding the new Petzl NOMIC and ERGO ice tools


Justin-at-Petzl

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jeezusfuck, you're crying about not having any tools?

 

when are you overpaid kids getting the lithium ion powered heated grips? power 'em up to 5 all day and break out the chalkbag on those m10s. mine just arrived via parcel post.

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mine go to 11.

 

I also asked "them" to reset mine to go all the way to the 11 aswell!

 

jeezusfuck, you're crying about not having any tools?

 

when are you overpaid kids getting the lithium ion powered heated grips? power 'em up to 5 all day and break out the chalkbag on those m10s. mine just arrived via parcel post.

 

How about getting the Trollpants off and taking a deep breath?

 

 

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jeezusfuck, you're crying about not having any tools?

 

when are you overpaid kids getting the lithium ion powered heated grips? power 'em up to 5 all day and break out the chalkbag on those m10s. mine just arrived via parcel post.

 

Good to see marriage didnt mellow you out. Homo. :laf:;)

 

Speaking of ice tools: are we going ice climbing this winter? :wazup:

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Got back from a weekend cragging in 11worth to find a set of ergos on my doorstep. The only difference was in the griprest to pommel interface as already shown on Edvin's blog. Looking forward to getting out on them next weekend!

 

One comment though; wtf is with the torque on the head bolts? Nearly broke my damn hand taking out the bolts while trying to swap the pick out. The allen head on the bolt even deformed about 10 degrees before the thing budged. Seems a bit excessive on the torque to me...

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My fixed Nomics arrived today. The shaft parts are from the old units I sent in, and the bottom ends of them have received the same machining + steel inserts as seen in the Viking alpinism blog.

 

Also worth noting, besides the two steel protrusions, the new pommel has been reworked a little on the outside too. The three little ridges running in the bottom of the pommel are now gone. (this change is also visible in the pictures posted in the blog mentioned above).

 

Yep, the bolts seem to be tightened to adequate kNs in France :)

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OK! I was so thrilled with Petzl and UPS today I have to post a picture.

 

Thursday I dropped a pair of well used last year's Ergos off @ the Issaquah UPS store. Today, 6 days later and ground UPS both ways, look at what I have! Yahoo!

 

P1040350.JPG

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Dane, I'm assuming your Ergos had the temporary epoxy fix done sometime last year by Petzl, and therefore they had to be replaced with a brand new set of tools.

 

I'm about to send my Ergos in, but I never had them epoxied. I'm wondering whether they're going to give me a new pair, or they'll just find a way to machine the new steel insert into the aluminum heel of the used tools.

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My fixed Nomics arrived today. The shaft parts are from the old units I sent in, and the bottom ends of them have received the same machining + steel inserts

 

Note that mine were almost mint, excl. the missing and bent teeth...

 

So, I guess P-Guys at France saw it fit just to repair them and ship them back to me. This is fine by me, one minor gripe though. The rivets located under the grip tape move abt. 1mm. sideways. Probably I´ll give them a tap with a punch and replace the factory replaced new grip tape ;D

 

Don´t know why they move or had they been moving before the repair, and I just missed this. (this seems unlikely, because I´m pretty pedantic when it comes to gear) The rubber handle parts seem to be the original ones. So my thinking is that "P" disassembled the grips from the shafts, machined the steel insert pockets and reattached the grips to the shafts with a slightly loose rivets.

 

Why they were mint in the first place is because I purchased them really late in the season. They had one pair in a local general sporting store, and I think they were left out of the loop of the "callback"... I officially named my tools "The last Nomics in the world" :D

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  • 5 months later...

Here's a some update on the issue from my behalf:

I have received my new U21-3 Nomics last week. Unluckily I was forced to take a little break midseason. It happened that a rather large icicle fell on my left calf. The size of the icicle is best described by my first course of action right after the mishap. I actually had to try to and push my leg sideways in order to see whether it was snapped :D Well a trip to the doc was needed though. The bones were ok, but the pressure caused by the swelling kept waking me up at nights..

During this forced time off from climbing I was able to exchange my axes, and now I'm back on track!

 

Thank you Petzl!

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