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Posted

From Super Topo Thread:

Have you ever started a climbing rumor on accident?

By deuce4:

My favorite was how I described in the Big Wall Tech Manual about how to "X-em, Rock-em, Paste-em, and Sniff-em" when placing heads. The "Sniff-em" part was a joke --"if it stinks, get off it!"

 

Then the Mountaineers in Seattle completely plagiarized my work in the 5th Edition of Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills. They took the "Sniff-em" part literally, and described in detail how a bad copperhead would emit some sort of special odor.

 

I wrote to the Mountaineers, one, to complain about the unacknowledged and blatant rip-off of my written work (about 20 pages of Freedom of the Hills was my work, paraphrased), and two, to point out to them their ridiculous error. I never heard back from them.

 

For years afterward, I heard climbers talking about the special odor of a bad copperhead! Even by some experienced wall climbers who had actually placed a head (not like the plagiarizers at the Mountaineers, who had obviously just rewritten my work without any real knowledge of aid climbing).

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Posted

Best laugh of the week!!!!

 

I can see it now, some Mountaineers Club Leader over at that new mountie lodge in N.E. Seattle giving a lecture on aid climbing........ :lmao:

Posted

I learned to climb with the Mounties way back when, and also had the privledge of climbing with a few of them in recent years. There are some pretty damn good climbers in the Mountaineers as well as aid climbers,so I find it funny people are jesting at them although I guess I have done it as well thru the years. Anybody out there getting it done, well got to hand it to them. It a big organization that introduces allot of people to the sport, so they do have allot of slow moving groups out and about which doesn't help their image I guess.

and a bad copperhead does stink. either that or you soiled your britches bitches!

Posted
Can anyone scan the portion that describes the sniffing and paste it on here?

I'll try to find it. It is in the 5th edition. I looked in the 7th edition and it is not there.

Posted
Can anyone scan the portion that describes the sniffing and paste it on here?

I'll try to find it. It is in the 5th edition. I looked in the 7th edition and it is not there.

I found it in the 5th editionMalleable_Placements.gif

Posted
From Super Topo Thread:

Have you ever started a climbing rumor on accident?

By deuce4:

My favorite was how I described in the Big Wall Tech Manual about how to "X-em, Rock-em, Paste-em, and Sniff-em" when placing heads. The "Sniff-em" part was a joke --"if it stinks, get off it!"

 

deuce4 is Middendorf then?

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