NNW Buttress Sport Climb?

[Mr. Hands]

No one wants to spill the beans, any one else know whats up with the sport/aid route going up on NNW Buttress on Mt Index?

[ScottP]

Not trying to pee on your thread, but isn't "sport/aid route" an oxymoron?

 

[Mr. Hands]

Well thats the point... read the other thread. No ones willing to fess up to the mess!

[genepires]

with the prevailing attitude of this place, why would anyone? incomplete information, assumptions, jumping to conclusions and then the critical judgements are common practice here.

 

why do you care so much if there is a "mess" up there?

[RuMR]

horse...what thread?

[Rad]

I, for one, would love to climb a sport route up one of those brush-free and STEEP towers over Lake Serene. If someone is willing to put in the work to do it more 36 Volt power to them.

[RuMR]

concur

[ScottP]

Not too long ago, people would find out about conditions in the mountains by traveling there and seeing for themselves.

[kukuzka1]

I wish someone would repeat the doorish/farnham route. but not me, im to busy fucking around with my new computer[lame]

[Mr. Hands]

somehow this is cool and infinate blizz is not??!?!

[Rad]

somehow this is cool and infinate blizz is not??!?!

 

Somehow IB gets bashed a lot whereas Darrington bolted routes are well-loved. Setting aside the anti-bolt nazi movement, the objections to IB fall into several classes.

 

1 - It is in wilderness. Darrington is not. Mt Index is not (correct me if I'm wrong).

 

2 - It is reported to have been created top-down. Most Dtown routes were put up on lead. Sounds like the Index one is ground up too.

 

3 - The bolt placement is not to the liking of some parties (too close in places and missing an anchor up high). Dtown bolts are not quite as close as IB. No idea what's going up on Index.

 

That's about it. People will spray all kinds of venom, but it mostly just covers these same points over and over again. ZZZZZZZ.

 

I've climbed IB and enjoyed it. My concerns fall under 1 and 3.

[Mr. Hands]

Hmm I guess its the same when my horse shits on the trail. Most people dont really mind it. But for some people its the end of the world. And well others...

[RuMR]

Rad,

 

if its what i think it is, i know the guy trying to put it up...i doubt you will think its overbolted...

[Mr. Hands]

Rad,

 

if its what i think it is, i know the guy trying to put it up...i doubt you will think its overbolted...

 

Umm the first pitch was a full on sport climb, while the second pitch looks like some "sick" aid... The first pitch could have easily been done on "sick" aid but the chose to bolt the seams instead into what appears to be a 5.9 sport pitch. Withc ropes n shit hanging all over. I'm not against anyone putting up a route, I'm just trying to figure out what the deal is!

[Rad]

Any rock climber who hikes to Lake Serene looks up at those cliffs with wonderment akin to looking up at El Cap from the El Cap Meadows. If the rock on Mt Index were as good as the lower town wall then that face would be a world-class climbing destination....sadly, it's not. I'm hiking up there next week with my son, niece, and sister, so I may take a look.

 

And Mr. Hands, if someone is working there it may be very laborious to take everything down and set it up all the time, particularly if there is no way in from the top. That said, this is a very public and visible area that will attract attention from non-climbing boobs and officials. If a non-climber were to go over there, mess around on the ropes, and get injured that would be bad.

[Mr. Hands]

And Mr. Hands, if someone is working there it may be very laborious to take everything down and set it up all the time, particularly if there is no way in from the top. That said, this is a very public and visible area that will attract attention from non-climbing boobs and officials. If a non-climber were to go over there, mess around on the ropes, and get injured that would be bad.

 

Exactly my point... Who ever is putting up this route totaly disrguarded that fact. Leaving three bright orange buckets planly visable a bright orange haul bag and even bright colored ropes. No notes or anything either. I just want to know what going on and why. I dont care what they do more power to them, just want some more answers.

[kukuzka1]

To me that wall has always been a symble of fear and the wild cascades since i fist saw it in the winter of 89, makeing my first summit ever[main pk]if you ever wanted to test yourself and have an adventure, this wall would always be here. just a 2hr hike away

[stillcrankin]

 

Pretty cool place to be.

 

[jshamster]

Bottom line.....you will not get the answers you seek on cc.spray. if you don't know these guys, you probably won't get any answers whatsoever.

[kukuzka1]

another item might be because the established style had all ready been set on garfield[doorish/preiss/ect..] and the wall had been climbed clean. not the same line but on the wall, and with plenty of gear placements when needed.

[Edlinger]

Kukuzka1,

Good points except for one factual error. The line that the Infinite Bliss Bolts go up was climbed clean before the power drill put it's hundreds of holes in (well the line is about 80% the same- using the excuse that it was a different line is a cop out).

The Mt.Index Sport route may be going up virgin territory and thus is a whole different ball game.

 

I'm now for this index route if it is done well.

[kukuzka1]

sorry Edlinger should of been more clear, i was talking about i-b and comments made by Rad a few posts ago. also their really is no easy way to get on top of the NNB to rap bolt it. it would probibly be more work than ground up

Edited August 22, 2010 by kukuzka1

[Off_White]

Edlinger, the funny thing is that the guy you're "educating" is the one who did the prior ascent of the IB wall.

 

I don't think it was an 80% overlap, but it's discussed elsewhere and kukuzka1's ascent was a bold adventure.

[kukuzka1]

yer right off white, its more like a 1/3. and thanks for blowin my cover

[Off_White]

Ho man, sorry bout that, but you went public with that tidbit back in the day when you weren't yet savvy in the ways of internet spray. I'm glad to see you're still here.