ScottP Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 I set up a toprope for Lisa Gnade on Model Worker at Index. I skiied past Fred on the way up to Camp Muir...he glared at me (swoon) I've climbed extensively with Robert Cobb. He knows everybody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted August 17, 2001 Author Share Posted August 17, 2001 Too cool, Mattp, we'll have to talk about it at the next fest we're both at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 Charlie..aka Porn Star. You're to freaking funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 RE: Penberthy Ice tools. Penberthy invented many an odd ice-tool. I had quite a collection at one time including an ice axe with a cotter pin in the shaft so you could shorten it for technical climbing. And who could forget his bright orange Thunderbird and blue Eagle axes. Anyway, he had these things called "Ice Hawks", that looked sort of like bent garden hoes with sharp points. You stood in aiders from the handles and your body weight pressed the devices into the ice. It wasn't around very long and it was for climbing steep stuff before people were "free" climbing it. (Some of the earliest big waterfalls were done with aiders suspended from Pterodactyl ice tools.) And here's a Friday morning pint of Mickey's in honor of the great Larry P.! - Dwayner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hikerwa Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 Every summer I get to see Ben Stein. He stays right next to our place on Pend Orielle lake. He's pretty cool in person, but his kid is an unruly little SOB.... Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtflyfisher Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 While at work at the repair counter of an outdoor retailer once located on Capitol hill a guy came up to me and started telling me a story about trying to take a crap at Muir in the middle of the night when his headlamp quits. Well, its an REI lamp and I start in on how its a piece of shit and he should never rely it and should get a Petzl. Thats when I state that he looks like Beckey. He stops talking, stares at me like I'm an idiot and says while walking away, "I get alot of that!" Customer Service lives! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_Halling Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 During the summer of 99' as part of my duties I had to do a monitor climb with RMI. This climb happened to be the "Happy Grand Centenial Climb" or something like that. Anyways it was full of "legends" and people who paid a lot of money so they could say they were dragged...I mean climbed with these legends. Anyways as we descended the DC I ran into none other than Jimmy Wickwire. I guess Jimmy is much too important to say hi or hello. No he immediately spoke to me in a manner that gave me the impression that, "hey this guys a real ***hole. After that experience with a NW "legend" I found a copy of "Addicted to Myself" and used it as a target for my next target practice session. Anyways not every "Legend" sighting is a positive one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_Halling Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 Oh yea..as part of that same experience I saw Peter Whittaker and his rope team almost get taken out by rockfall on the DC. At Ingraham Flats Peter gave a lecture to the clients about how helmets are so important. I was just wondering...are the RMI "Guide" hats made out of flexible Kevlar or some other material so that they will deflect rockfall? Or do RMI guides have some of Big Lou's ambience that acts like a force field to protect them from falling rock? Big Lou was suppossed to lead that Centenial Climb but decided it was more important to sign copies of "Memoirs of Me" in the Paradise parking lot....thus thwarting my efforts to meet him yet again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_Halling Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 Where did my posts go? Oh well guess I have to resubmit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chongo Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 "Addicted to MYSELF"..."Memoirs of ME"...BEAUTIFUL! Thanks for putting things in their proper light Sean. That guy Roskelly was one tough mofo though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 I met Stim Bullitt sport climbing at Little Si today. Way cool guy. Wonder if I'll be able to climb like that when I'm his age, like a 100 years from now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 somebody please define "legend"? so far I've seen work colleagues, drinking buddies, and my eldest son's godfather all named as legends in this thread... reminds me of a time in Camp 4 when a guy walks over to our picnic table, introduces himself as Roman Dial, & says: "I saw the slideshow you produced for the Alaskan Alpine Club Rescue Fund" - and my ropegun partner who could climb circles around me gets all quiet and strange, and after mr Dial leaves, he looks at me weird and says "wow, I didn't know I was climbing with somebody famous" -- to which I replied "neither did I"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_detrick Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 Jim Wickwire done a book signing in his home town, lots of kool people showed up. I met Alex Lowe And Steve House at a Ice climbing Demo, And I climb a lot with the legend himself Bruce White.Can't leave out Fred Stanley,great guys. Kooldude  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 I talked to Doug Klewin a couple of days ago, and he was amazed that the poseur "the Iceman" (we are talking Dr. Dwayner here) was still poking around climbers. But me talking to Doug is no big deal, cause I'm a fucking ledgend. I've been insulted by Bridwell, got really drunk with Mark Wilford, disgusted Stevie Swenson, made Jack Tackle and Jim Donini shake their heads, pissed on Rat more than once, called "Richard" Cilley "Dick" so many times that he doesn't like me (either do Peter Puget or Victor), smoked mass pot with John Stoddard, consumed lots of beer with Daryl Hatton,blindly fired off Kit's 50 caliber rifle, soloed the smear drunk off our asses at midnight with John Tarver, known Russ Erickson since before we could drive, and been written about in "Off Belay" as being a climbing rowdy. And no, I'm not JY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 hey crazyjz - you actually called Richard Cilley "Dick"? Back in '81 when I met him, he INTRODUCED HIMSELF as "Dick Cilley". Gospel truth, man! He told us to call him "Dick"! I didn't know he went by any other name, other than the one Paul Christiansen gave him..."Crazy Cock"... [This message has been edited by haireball (edited 08-19-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 Dang, crazyjy, I mean jz. You sound like an old buddy of mine who is a local Spanaway celebrity! At least you spelled the word "poseur" correctly. I find no need to pose, my friend, although I've heard strangers at a campfire spin tales about how bad I was on climbs I was never on. And one summer a while back, I was doing my thing in the Middle East and returned to learn that while I was gone, I had been busted by the park service for soloing Willis Wall! If I'm looking for heroes, it generally ain't in the climbing world although I met Edmund Hillary once and was amazed to find that he seemed to be almost embarassed by all that he has accomplished. By the way, any Big Lou sightings this weekend on Dan's Dreadful Direct or whatever? Send Lou in to fight them big fires! aloha, Dwayner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 I've seen Zimmermann Boordbroecher's signature on a few summit registers... does that count? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 Pete who? No way Dru, if you find a six-pitch route in GA that's legal, let me know! You'd be climbing out of a cave somewhere. There are routes that might go 6 lengths, but they are all in prohibited areas (Cloudland Canyon, Stone Mountain). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_Halling Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 Chongo, Unfortunately I cannot take credit for the "Addicted to myself"...that honor goes to "W". At least thats where I first heard it. On another note...I bet the Army could figure out a way to do a 6 pitch line on Mt. Yonah in beautiful Jaw'gia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Sean Halling: On another note...I bet the Army could figure out a way to do a 6 pitch line on Mt. Yonah in beautiful Jaw'gia. So true! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 Well, they didn't get six pitches out of Yonah, but they had no problems driving shitty pins everywhere and spray painting numbers on their routes back in the 60's and 70's. The road to the top that they maintained was almost enough to overlook their past transgressions...until a developer bought land for houses and closed the road to the public, virtually eliminating a unique climbing resource even though the crag is not owned by the developer. Rich richer, poor poorer...nothing new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_Halling Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 I learned how to "direct aid" climb on those "shitty pins." Ya, they messed that place up. It reminded me of whay I saw in Belgium near Marche le Dames. So Will maybe you can answer this....did the Army kick people out of the area when training was on-going? Or did climbers get the fun of watching the Army circus while they climbed. I was there in Dec. but I heard there was a nude beach down below on the river that you could see from the top of Yonah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 you wanna talk localized, Will? Who ever heard of Pete Cleveland or Dennis Horning unless you made the trip to Devils Tower & the Black Hills? trivia quiz - who the hell were Herb & Jan Conn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 This thread is pretty funny, 'cause it reveals how localized the "legends" are. I'll bet most of you guys and gals have never heard of Shannon Stegg, Rob Robinson, Doc Bayne, Travis Eiseman....all "legends" in the southeast. All were putting up 5.12 ground-up trad routes in the 80's. Anyone wanting the full-on "legend experience" need only to spend a few weeks in Camp4. When they don't need first names, they must be legends right? Dean, Steph, Leo, Chongo, Cedar, Werner, Dan and Sue, Lynn, Ron, the Frosts, Mac, the Bird, all in a two week period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 Yeah I bet nobody in Jaw'gia ever heard of Pete Doorish either! Don'tthey have Grade IV routes there that are 6 pitches long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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