[TR] Whistler Mountain - East Couloir / North Ridge 6/5/2010

[Trent]

Trip: Whistler Mountain - East Couloir / North Ridge

 

Date: 6/5/2010

 

Trip Report:

For those interested, the East Couloir route on Whistler Peak is still in, but probably not for long. Heinrich and I picked the climb last Saturday as a good choice for a one day outing to beat the poor weather forecast for Sunday, and a good test for my (mostly) rehabilitated legs.

 

The couloir is the left hand one

 

The entire route turned out to be more difficult in all respects than I had anticipated. Heinrich, who has climbed it twice, concurred with that assessment. The troubles started with the creek crossing. The creek was swollen with the recent snow-melt, and a log to cross could not be found. We ended up finding a shallow spot and running across in our boots.

 

Booting up

 

The snow up the couloir was mostly soft requiring postholing, occasionally up to the thighs, not requiring crampons. Heinrich – Thanks for the steps. About ¾ of the way up, there was a traverse that had melted out to the nasty slabs underneath surrounded by soft, rotten snow. Heinrich scratched up it, and then threw the rope down for a belay when I started whining. The final portion of the couloir was threatened by some cornices, the biggest which can be avoided by climbing on the left.

 

On top

 

Once on the ridge, it was like we had stepped into a different season. The snow had some powdery fresh over a frozen ice slab that required crampons, and the rock was iced up in places. The climbing was mostly secure, but the pins came in handy.

We descended down the SW side of the peak, on snow until almost at the highway. We met a solo climber at the summit who gave us a ride back to our vehicle (thanks).

 

 

Overall: A very aesthetic route on a peak with super easy access.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Two axes (one would be sufficient, but two are more comfortable and the approach is short), crampons, rope and light rack (included pins) (not needed if the ridge is mostly snow free)

 

Approach Notes:

Park on the highway underneath the route. Cross creek and start climbing.

Edited June 10, 2010 by Trent

[Pilchuck71]

[Dannible]

Back on the horse in time for summer.

[curtveld]

Nice! I've often admired that line from the Liberty Bell area.

[kurthicks]

cool. i had a friend get 'lanched in that couloir last year when the cornice dropped. looks fun.

[Jens]

I love that peak!

[sepultura]

Way to get on it Dudes! see ya later this summer when I get this fish caught

[JasonG]

Thanks for the write-up Steve! I'll try and add some photos in the next day or two. And for the record, I was whining too, but couldn't do much about it except to keep going. It would have been bad form to go for a long ride on my first outing after baby #2.

 

Kurt-your friend was OK? How far did they get swept? Very scary, and one of the reasons I keep putting off that route between N & S early.

 

Scott- Catch dem fishies so you can get back to the hills pronto!

[goatboy]

I climbed this thing years ago and encountered very similar conditions, and found it to be harder than it appeared to be from the road. I also remember being challenged by the creek crossing. When I got to the top of the couloir, on the exposed ridge crest, we bailed back down the couloir since we did not have a rope. It was steeper in places than I expected, but a lovely and eye-catching objective.

 

Note that it gets immediate sun and can turn sloppy rather quickly.

 

Nice job!

[JasonG]

A few more photos, although I didn't take very many as we were trying to race the softening snow . . .

 

Steve in the middle of the gully-

 

Cutthroat from the top of the gully-

 

Looking towards Black Pk, and entering winter conditions on the north side of the ridge-

 

On the summit-

 

I made this sign up beforehand for Steve, thinking we were going to have to hitch a ride. How could anyone refuse to pick up a clean-cut, active duty officer (even if he might need a shower)?

Edited June 24, 2010 by Heinrich