Paul_detrick Posted March 25, 2002 Posted March 25, 2002 Weather was great today at Vantage, lots of people, but I guess there's no where else to go. No sign of mountainsteers,but lots of boneheads. Paul Quote
MysticNacho Posted March 25, 2002 Posted March 25, 2002 We saw a group of climbers with names on their helmets briefly on Saturday. hmmmmmmmm Quote
Jarred_Jackman Posted March 25, 2002 Posted March 25, 2002 Paul, what day were you there?Has anyone seen the influx of big wall people practicing at Vantage? I saw three portaledges on the ZigZag wall, someone hauling a PIG into the Sunshine area, and some guy saturday evening was hammering pitons into the ZigZag wall. Funny though, if you're not at the Sunshine wall you don't see the crowds. Quote
specialed Posted March 25, 2002 Posted March 25, 2002 Yeah Mtneers aid practice. Talked to some dude with them who was practicing aid and big wall techniques at Vantage so he could go to the valley so maybe he could do the Prow and the Lost Arrow. Then maybe he'd be good enough to a route on El Cap. We were like, why waste your time? if you know how to stand in aiders and set up a ledge why deal with that BS just go get on the big stone!! Quote
Retrosaurus Posted March 26, 2002 Posted March 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by northfork: Got a problem with folks and helmets? Were they latex helmets?Were any of the names on the helmets "DICK"? Quote
Dru Posted March 28, 2002 Posted March 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jarred Jackman: Paul, what day were you there?Has anyone seen the influx of big wall people practicing at Vantage? I saw three portaledges on the ZigZag wall, someone hauling a PIG into the Sunshine area, and some guy saturday evening was hammering pitons into the ZigZag wall. Funny though, if you're not at the Sunshine wall you don't see the crowds. I guess nailing Vantage gives you experience with expando? But what would you do if the whole column came off? i think the next time I go to Lworth I will pitch my ledge in the middle of Bruces Boulder to strike a pose for the Mtneers. Arent there girls on those courses I could posibly impress with my impressive Big wall skillz Quote
roger_johnson Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 I'm sorry you think Bruce's Boulder is a big wall. Most people just rap down at the end of the day and jug back up the next. Maybe you could get one or more of those impressionable mountie chickz to head up the big stone with you. Quote
erden Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by specialed: Yeah Mtneers aid practice. Talked to some dude with them who was practicing aid and big wall techniques at Vantage so he could go to the valley so maybe he could do the Prow and the Lost Arrow. Then maybe he'd be good enough to a route on El Cap. We were like, why waste your time? if you know how to stand in aiders and set up a ledge why deal with that BS just go get on the big stone!! So, specialed and dru, since I do not know you: - how many big walls did you do? - care to share if you ever set up your bivy ledge before you got on a wall, or ever stood in aiders before you got on a wall? but since both of you walk on water, you probably knew all that before you got on the walls... I say you bullies calm down and let the people learn the skills before committing themselves to something big. Not everyone will get on an expando flake and conquer A4-A5 on their first big wall. Contrary to some of your inuendo, big wall ain't = A5. Let them be, at least they were practicing on junk rock!!! [ 03-28-2002: Message edited by: erden ] Quote
rayborbon Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Were they latex helmets?Were any of the names on the helmets "DICK"? Look for me I a now known as "Gaper" Quote
Paul_detrick Posted March 29, 2002 Author Posted March 29, 2002 If it's junk rock why would you want to learn there? The stuff falls a part all by it shelf, I can't belive it's a great place to learn. I hope no one was below them, they must have been yelling ROCK all day. K.C.D.S Quote
rayborbon Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 I'll be controversial here- I did see folks nailing some crack I had climbed a year before free at 5.8.... Not like it was stellar or anyting but I did not really care...... When I saw it. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Were they latex helmets?Were any of the names on the helmets "DICK"? you are so gay jtree was fannnnnnnnntasticnow in the bay area going bouldering at castle rock of all places Quote
rayborbon Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 Nothing but good bouldering there have fun B! I have done so a few times! Quote
Retrosaurus Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Szyjakowski: you are so gay jtree was fannnnnnnnntasticnow in the bay area going bouldering at castle rock of all places Hey Jakoffski,I was not the one in the bay area grabbing somebody's boulders. Did they moan when you pulled on them? Quote
erik Posted March 29, 2002 Posted March 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erden: So, specialed and dru, since I do not know you: - how many big walls did you do? - care to share if you ever set up your bivy ledge before you got on a wall, or ever stood in aiders before you got on a wall? but since both of you walk on water, you probably knew all that before you got on the walls... I say you bullies calm down and let the people learn the skills before committing themselves to something big. Not everyone will get on an expando flake and conquer A4-A5 on their first big wall. Contrary to some of your inuendo, big wall ain't = A5. Let them be, at least they were practicing on junk rock!!! [ 03-28-2002: Message edited by: erden ] ill talk some shit too, nailing at dis-vantage is not like nailing in fine granite........first of all the nature of the rock at dis-vantage makes most nailing to be more destructive then on other types of rock........the struturual and superfical cracks that are created around your pin placement are more detructive the most other things going on there..........you do not create a placement where it can be used over and over and over again, with the mojaority of the damage being a larger pocket....no you just fucking detroy the rock period....that is irresponsible..... i am a pretty mellow person, but if i had seen those people nailing for the sake of nailing i might have exploded into an enviromental impact diatribe and coming from a republican it is a harsh one..........(and i will not make a statement about gridbolting here) now the only practice for walling is walling.....go to index and do some of the baby walls and then head to the wa pass and do some medium walls....there is nothing wrong with practicing, but practice in the correct medium....one that has little to now impact.. granted i will applaud the mtneers for choosing the zig zag wall, which sees little traffic, but come one guyz aiding at dis-vantage is like fucking a blow up doll( i have never done this, either activity) it might kinda be like what you want to do, but shit once everyone finds out ya did there is gonna be a lot of laughs at your actions......please leave the blow up doll alone(dis-vantage) and go practice some where real....... enjoy and be safe..... Quote
sobo Posted March 30, 2002 Posted March 30, 2002 About 12 or 13 years ago, in the early days of development at Vantage, I rode a column down from about 30 feet up. The only thing that saved my ass was the Wiley E. Coyote-style tightening of the rope that absorbed my forward and downward advance, slowing me down just far enough above the ground to slap me into the talus at a survivable velocity. Walked away, but contented myself with a very sketchy performance on a 5.7 later that day. I've hated Vantage ever since, despite all the recent furor over the "gardening activities" of others in another yahooGroup about cleaning up the choss. Goddam place almost killed me. And yes, back then when shit was falling everywhere, we wore helmets... [ 03-29-2002: Message edited by: sobo ] Quote
Jarred_Jackman Posted March 30, 2002 Posted March 30, 2002 You guys kill me, you talk about Vantage as though it were your mom or something. Why does everyone care about it so much? If it's junk, then who cares, if it's great, then, well, climb there, but I don't understand all the controversy over a medium to small size climbing venue. Sobo, sobe, whatever, was it actually Vantage and its anthropomorphic abilities that almost killed you, or a little operator error that almost mamed you for life? I don't think a climbing area has actually ever killed anyone. I was actually at Vantage today and the weather was great! I actually pulled a rock off of a climb on Lower River, WHEW, I guess Vantage almost killed me. Climb safely. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted March 30, 2002 Posted March 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Hey Jakoffski,I was not the one in the bay area grabbing somebody's boulders. Did they moan when you pulled on them? hey retrowhimpgo jump in a lake you wannabe Bay area does suck for boulders but not all the prette girlies...and btw...will be calling you to kick your ass next tuesday.leaving cali tomorrow Quote
sobo Posted March 31, 2002 Posted March 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jarred Jackman: Sobo, sobe, whatever, was it actually Vantage and its anthropomorphic abilities that almost killed you, or a little operator error that almost mamed you for life? I don't think a climbing area has actually ever killed anyone. I actually pulled a rock off of a climb on Lower River, WHEW, I guess Vantage almost killed me. Mr. Jackman,A rope team ahead of us, plus the leader on my rope, passed over the very column that separated from the wall and fell. By all accounts, it appeared as well attached as any other column at the coulee. If anything, it was my "flight skills" which gave me the presence of mind to leap to the side of the column, instead of springing off of it directly into the fall line. Lastly, your pathetic attempt at humor leaves little to be found amusing. And the name is "sobo". Anything else to say, take it to Spray. [ 03-30-2002: Message edited by: sobo ] Quote
Charlie Posted March 31, 2002 Posted March 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Szyjakowski: hey retrowhimpgo jump in a lake you wannabe Bay area does suck for boulders but not all the prette girlies...and btw...will be calling you to kick your ass next tuesday.leaving cali tomorrow Did you notice that all those pretty girlies had Adam's apples? Quote
Jarred_Jackman Posted March 31, 2002 Posted March 31, 2002 SOBO, I'm not railing on you, I don't even know you. I just think it's funny how so many seem to have your negative attitude towards Vantage and it's "rock quality" but it really seems that it's the people that are the problem, I and countless others have climbed there a lot and never had rockfall injuries. By the same token, a friend of mine fell in the Tetons due to anchor failure, the rock gave way and dropped the slings, yet nobody is saying, holy shit, better not climb that Wyoming granit, it's damn brittle and liable to get you killed. It's all a matter of viewpoint I know, but it's just curious that the most used crag in the state seems to also attract the most negative comments. The pathetic joke about your name was simply stating that all the little names everyone seems to give themselves are stupid, why not just sign in with your birth name, I guess I just don't undetstand the need for a pen-name. Quote
Paul_detrick Posted March 31, 2002 Author Posted March 31, 2002 I agree, is it Vantage everyone hates or just all the people? Rock is Rock. Or is it the way the routes have been set up, too many bolts? too close together? Don't blame the area for a few people's actions. Talk down about people but not the rock. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.