Public Notice:

[richard_noggin]

It is true and known fact that PDX crag cops have run off many a good climber.

[JosephH]

It is true and known fact that PDX crag cops have run off many a good climber.

What a crock; name one...

[ivan]

i had a cop at a crag give me a huge fatty ticket once - didn't drive me off the crag though, just set me to keeping huge piles of artillery lying around all over the place

[JosephH]

Dude, true enough, but have we gotten rid of you because of it or the cruel retohric and slander that's always being directed your way?

 

Hell no, we're still stuck with you like some sort of demented and tortured tarbaby...

[el jefe]

too bad pdx climbers are stuck with beacon rock instead of all those 25 foot long, 5.7 slab routes that dot the landscape in leavenworth. also, it is clear that our beloved river city down here is culturally over-matched by that faux-bavarian village to the north. indeed, is there any restaurant in portland that can match the ortega burger at gustav's or any route at beacon that rivals the amazing "classic crack" at 8-mile campground? i mean, how can a 75' 5.11 fingercrack like "free for some" compare with any of the classic lines at bruce's boulder? clearly lancegranite, sol and the other wannabe meth cooks living on the fringes of wenatchee are far better off than we poor portlanders. would that our lives could be so enriched and ennobled as theirs, living within sight and hearing of the downtown gazebo and oom-pah music of der leavenworthy!

 

 

 

 

Edited April 9, 2010 by el jefe

[Sol]

 

city boy....

[richard_noggin]

It is true and known fact that PDX crag cops have run off many a good climber.

What a crock; name one...

Oh I could name more than a few, but of course I won’t, I will say I have a Friend and his wife that moved to Portland and after a couple trips to the local crags they were so put off they would make the trip north to climb with the crew….what was the statement …they are sooo anal. That’s just a typical story.

 

The climbing community and land mangers/owners should police the crags and climbing not a couple of Joe’s that take over the local crag or area.

[JosephH]

There are plenty of sport climbing crags here and if they got chased off those it wasn't by me or anyone I know. And if they were trad climbing they certainly wouldn't be hassled in anyone in any manner whatsoever. So, names or not, any such claim would seem mighty strange. Sounds like a perfect outcome, however.

[ivan]

sounds liek bullshit to me too - they might be put off by ozone, but that's b/c there's 3 billion people there any given day - beacon on even the best of days has 90% of its routes open and i've never seen or had an unpleasant encounter w/ anyone there (weeeelll, except the one time someone brought a ragingly angry pitbull to the base and let it run free while they were 3 pitches up and i had to crush it's skull w/ my portaledge to get past it )

 

if i had a teleporter i'd climb in l-worth a lot more than i do now, but if i'm gonna drive for granite it's gonna be to index or squampton or up to the stuart range and not to hang out in that zombie-apocalypse-waiting-to-be-burg

[rob]

How could *anyone* have a pleasant experience at Beacon?

[kevbone]

Because Beacon is the best climbing in Oregon, and its in WA. that's why!

[ivan]

How could *anyone* have a pleasant experience at Beacon?

if the natural ambiance fails them, perhaps performance enhancing drugs might do the trick?

 

yuuuuup, sure looks like its sucks 2 me!

 

 

[LostCamKenny]

How could *anyone* have a pleasant experience at Beacon?

if the natural ambiance fails them, perhaps performance enhancing drugs might do the trick?

 

yuuuuup, sure looks like its sucks 2 me!

other than ivan gettin punched in between the eyes with a green alien there doesn't look like one instance of a bad day at beacon - though i can recall a rather uncomfortable one once.

[billcoe]

sometimes it gets cold out there..

______________________________________________________________

 

obligatory Beacon pics

 

 

 

 

[LostCamKenny]

tis funny that the mods will shut down threads about IB's bolts at less than two pages while the gorge debates rage on for 6 or 7... interesting.

[kevbone]

they shut down the IB thread?

[ivan]

they shut down the IB thread?

they cut off but one of its many thousands of hydra heads more like

[LostCamKenny]

basically, imo, it's ok for the arrogance of being a seattlite to suggest that we pdx'er are worthless piles of bitching noise, while complaining about bolts in the wilderness on IB is ok - ITS BITCHIN EITHER WAY JACKASSES AND YER SHIT STINKS JUST LIKE OURS, SO GET OVER IT! AM I RIGHT OR AM I RIGHT?

 

 

 

[LostCamKenny]

WHERE ARE THE MODS ON THIS THREAD? OW WAS PRETTY SWIFT WITH THE ONE THAT WENT FROM THE GORGE FORUM TO SPRAY IN UNDER A MINUTE...

[ivan]

kenny's pain meds appear to have done wore off

[richard_noggin]

There are plenty of sport climbing crags here and if they got chased off those it wasn't by me or anyone I know. And if they were trad climbing they certainly wouldn't be hassled in anyone in any manner whatsoever. So, names or not, any such claim would seem mighty strange. Sounds like a perfect outcome, however.

Look don't get your panties in a bunch...it's the internet and I am Dick Head but at least I am honest and up Front, what do you think your internet self is perceived as

Look I love climbing, so I think more climbing more freedom more new climbs, not less climbing more rules, I guess i am more young at heart than most

[lancegranite]

So I threw a gauntlet out there and sat back for a while to watch the results.

 

Climbing has always had these squabbles over style, ethics and personalities, but it's usually solved in person, face to face and hopefully over a cold beer in the parking lot or at the cliff. The internet changed all that.

It may surprise some to know that I chopped a good friend's route last year. We talked it over as friends and we remain good friends to this day.

We used the chopped hangers to establish a new route together and we all moved on.

The big difference is we conducted our discussion in person, not here in a public forum for all the world to read because it's none of your damn business.

 

The continual daily back and forth arguments that have come to define the PDX's reputation are one of controversy and mutual assured defaming.

This reflects on you as a group. Airing all your dirty laundry every day on a public forum just says you can't solve your problems as regular people do.

Poor form!

Nobody like a complainer, and sometimes that's all we hear from some of you.

You can't make us agree if we don't. only a fool thinks that.

Actions always speak the loudest. Everyone respects those who walk the walk, not those those who talk and talk.

This is not a blog, it's not a soapbox, it's place for people to share, laugh, discuss and celebrate climbing in all it's forms.

 

I enjoy some of the content that people in your area post. they are climbing, they are stoked, they share. It's cool. Sometimes it's spray and that has a time and a place too.

We're all smarter than the next guy right?

Me? I don't really talk about my climbing, that's just me and I'm good with it.

Many others here have different styles than me and that's great. There's still plenty out there for all of us.

 

What you take away from this is up to you. Cut and paste whatever makes you feel better, but the bottom line is yelling back and forth every god damn day is like living in a great town but the people who live next door air their private business so loud no walls or fence is going to block it out.

You can't help but listen at first, but in the end you just wish they would just shut the fuck up.

 

I bid you good day.

 

 

P.S. Checat- I work with Flyin' Brian.

I showed him your quote.

He thinks you should come up with your own material.

 

 

[denalidave]

Drama in the Gorge? Of course, what else would you expect?... It's like the Hollywood of the NW climbing scene. Where the beautiful, successful people are all clambering to be the most beautifulist & sucessfulest person of them all.

[JosephH]

...but at least I am honest and up frount, what do you think your internet self is preceived as?

I believe if you took a poll of the locals you find I'm pretty much considered just as much of a pain in the ass nut job in person as I am on the internet.

 

...Look I love climbing, so I think more climbing more freedom more new climbs, not less climbing more rules, I guess i am more young at heart than most

Beacon is a trad oasis in a sea of sport climbing - hell, it's Oregon and Smith - it's America's sport climbing capitol for all practical purposes and PDX climbing tastes by and large reflect that. But I don't give a rat's ass what or how folks climb so long as Beacon stays trad - it's a simple deal.

[LostCamKenny]

Nobody likes a complainer

huh... and you're complaining about us, so where does that leave you?