2010 Beacon Rock Peregrine Monitoring Journal

[JosephH]

So, Justin and others interested in getting / being involved, here would be my advice (and god knows we all know what that currency is worth around here):

 

Don't bombard the Erik (BRSP), Dave (WDFW), and Lisa (WSP Olympia) as a bunch of random individuals - do it in an organized and managed fashion through the BRCA. Pick a spokesperson (Bill is good at this), a researcher/librarian (I'd say Justin is picking that mantle up), Peregrine monitors (Dave and Kenny seem up for it) and establish a formal agenda, plan, and website.

 

BUT!!! You still have history, trust, relationship, and investment issues to deal with. Bill is a known quantity who comes off well, has at least an on / off relationship with Erik who I think trusts him. Dave and Lisa also know him and I've repeatedly vouched for him as being a straight shooter with Dave. But beyond him you don't have any ongoing history of [working] relationships with these folks. The value of this can't be understated - people and vested working relationships are what get things done - not emails, forms, or paper demands. People.

 

There are lots of ways to 'be involved' and establish a working relationship with the BRSP: pre-open cleanup sessions, helping change out the signage at the beginning and end of each season, offering to be a resource to help clean up trails and other damage after big spring storms / floods, or even simply ask if they need help in other areas of the park. Hell, clean up the base of the West side when it isn't overrun by oak, because it's paved with trash from the tourist trail. The idea is use some initiative, do something that shows some individual and group investment both in the rock and in BRSP in general. And don't just do it once, you want to do things that keep you engaged year in, year out. Oh, and they have forms for volunteer hours and get a performance review on how many they collect each month.

 

And as you gather and review the various relevant documents associated with climbing at Beacon you better understand there is an unwritten history of attitudes, behaviors, and incidents that go hand-in-hand with all those documents. Also understand that all regulatory processes ultimately have a political element to them; particularly when it comes to navigating regulatory and legal isssues in the course of attempting to achieve your ends. In that respect there are always interpretations, minutiae, and gotchas involved that can trip you up but which can be 'overlooked' by understanding or sympathetic stakeholders / allies or - just as easily - used to fuck you by people you've slagged, antagonized, and whose lives or jobs you made more difficult.

 

Part of all that means learning, understanding, and embracing the history and legacy of climber actions and behaviors over the years at Beacon - not all of it is pretty by any means regardless of the indignation or rationales behind them. Learn that history and don't make the same 'feel-good' mistakes that were made in the past. Don't dismiss that legacy or think it's not something that still has to be overcome to some extent when dealing with various stakeholders.

 

Overall, earn a little respect and a place at the broader table out there, because, if you just try to show up with your highlighted, underlined documents, and indignant demands in hand, you'll quickly find yourself getting nowhere fast. Another important point: be very careful of the budget / workload impact of anything you formally inquire about or propose on BRSP. If investigating or implementing some aspect of your agenda unduly burdens those guys they are going to clam-up and become immediately uncooperative (i.e. no more early opens at the very least). Oh, and realize anything big will be open for public review and comment which takes time and people may show up who don't share your ideas.

 

Another important point - do the leg work and get the facts firsthand from authoritative sources. For example, the blasting issue (or, say, the big, new hiking trail development project under Ozone), better check your facts real close and maybe get a copy of the impact statements, because I can guarantee you Dave isn't letting anyone blast within a radius that will adversely impact the Peregrines. If it were an unavoidable safety imperative then I'm guessing Dave would both insist on all sorts of blast containment / blanketing and be there in person when it happened. Don't jump to conclusions on the sound of the words because it seems like they suit your point or agenda - get the real story as there's always more to it. Be as objective and journalistic as possible and strive to occasionally get outside your narrow agenda to check in with the bigger picture .

 

And last, understand the BRSP is the LEAST powerful stakeholder of them all from among the mix of the railroad, tribes, Gorge Commission, Skamania County, WDFW, WDHA, WSP Olympia, etc. Even when the BRSP is on our side and in agreement, they typically have to pass it by WSP Olympia at a minimum and sometimes also the Gorge Commission, WDHA, and others. Also remember the BRSP and WSP has defended climbing at Beacon in the past and they like the cache climbing gives the park versus other WA parks. When it comes to dealing with Olympia, agencies, and other stakeholders, Erik is your best friend. And don't make the mistake of underestimating the local and national power of the Audubon Society - you don't want them involved and leaning on WDFW while talking to every TV news station in PDX as they have been in the past.

 

Good luck...

[billcoe]

Whoa...that's a ....well...masterpiece is an overused word, but certainly well spoken, thoughtful and well written tome.

 

To add to JH's words, if the birds are nesting: S. Side of Beacon will be closed. You will not change that no matter how much you either wail or become involved. Sorry, but dems the facts jacks. We were going to look at working on getting the West Side and the S side hiking trial open this year, but I confess to you all, I don't have the energy or the mindset to dog it. The process got started if anyone wants to pick up that ball.....

 

Meantime, there are plenty of old routes on the N side just gathering moss and withering away you folks can jump on....brush off a few leaves here and there.....:-)

[LostCamKenny]

waiting for a new journal entry....

Was in LA checking on my Dad for the weekend, but this time of year every two weeks or so is fine. If Dave or Kenny can get out during those alternate weeks and get some entries that would be great as well.

... i'll coordinate with ya, joe. i'll be out there every day starting about the 24th.

[stevetimetravlr]

as long as we are all moving forward in a positive manner with BRST, seems like that can only yield positive results for us climbers AND the peregrines so way to go guys! Thanks for the detailed imput Joseph.

[billcoe]

as long as we are all moving forward in a positive manner with BRST, seems like that can only yield positive results for us climbers AND the peregrines so way to go guys! Thanks for the detailed imput Joseph.

 

...not to be to much of a negative Nellie, I'm not sure anything is moving anywhere.

[JosephH]

Bill, you beat me to it. Don't think about it as 'moving forward' on an agenda so much as establishing a vested interest and presence. If you can do that then you're positioned to suggest or inquire about changing the status quo in various ways.

 

As Bill said, the Peregrine closure isn't going away anytime soon. The overall issue of the closure you could probably revisit in 2015 when Peregrines are predicted to be as restored to their natural numbers and range as possible. But even then the best you could probably hope for is some modification versus the elimination of it.

 

That gives you time to get organized and involved and don't forget that Erik and Ben will get around to resuscitating the CMP and CAC sooner or later and you DEFINITELY want to be as involved as possible in those activities.

[stevetimetravlr]

Maybe we need a trad/sport climbing area on the parking lot side above the water fountain. It has super looking rock with lots of room. That wouldn't disturb the peregrines but you might have to move the water fountain.

Edited March 5, 2010 by stevetimetravlr

[ivan]

Maybe we need a trad/sport climbing area on the parking lot side above the water fountain. It has super looking rock with lots of room. That wouldn't disturb the peregrines but you might have to move the water fountain.

rockfall (inevitable) from up there will land in the p-lot and on tourons - climbing on that side has to be climbers right of the fountain - once you go 'round that corner the rockfall gets funneled into the woods

 

that said, just single pitch off the ground above the faucet would be awesome, and was bolted once, but hte Man's been adament about it

 

just duck into the woods - plenty of stuff to do there seige tactics and headspace are particuliarly fine routes, and dry too in the pouring rain

[billcoe]

It was bolted AFTER it had been ascended with gear was what I understood. Wayne Wallace, I heard, had climbed that long time before he moved out of the area. Regardless, it's neither here nor there. Ozone already has enough bolts for most folks and it's a short drive if one wants to clip things:-)

[kevbone]

 

Don't bombard the Erik (BRSP), Dave (WDFW), and Lisa (WSP Olympia) as a bunch of random individuals - do it in an organized and managed fashion through the BRCA. Pick a spokesperson

 

That's nice JH. That way YOU controll everything.

[ivan]

 

Don't bombard the Erik (BRSP), Dave (WDFW), and Lisa (WSP Olympia) as a bunch of random individuals - do it in an organized and managed fashion through the BRCA. Pick a spokesperson

 

That's nice JH. That way YOU controll everything.

uh, kev, he said pick a spokesperson, and he wasn't volunteering

 

 

[denalidave]

waiting for a new journal entry....

I've been down to the docks, twice in the past week, but only for about a half hour. Did not see any sign of them, maybe the moved out?

[denalidave]

So, Justin and others interested in getting / being involved, here would be my advice (and god knows we all know what that currency is worth around here):

 

Don't bombard the Erik (BRSP), Dave (WDFW), and Lisa (WSP Olympia) as a bunch of random individuals - do it in an organized and managed fashion through the BRCA. Pick a spokesperson (Bill is good at this), a researcher/librarian (I'd say Justin is picking that mantle up), Peregrine monitors (Dave and Kenny seem up for it) and establish a formal agenda, plan, and website.

 

BUT!!! You still have history, trust, relationship, and investment issues to deal with. Bill is a known quantity who comes off well, has at least an on / off relationship with Erik who I think trusts him. Dave and Lisa also know him and I've repeatedly vouched for him as being a straight shooter with Dave. But beyond him you don't have any ongoing history of [working] relationships with these folks. The value of this can't be understated - people and vested working relationships are what get things done - not emails, forms, or paper demands. People.

 

There are lots of ways to 'be involved' and establish a working relationship with the BRSP: pre-open cleanup sessions, helping change out the signage at the beginning and end of each season, offering to be a resource to help clean up trails and other damage after big spring storms / floods, or even simply ask if they need help in other areas of the park. Hell, clean up the base of the West side when it isn't overrun by oak, because it's paved with trash from the tourist trail. The idea is use some initiative, do something that shows some individual and group investment both in the rock and in BRSP in general. And don't just do it once, you want to do things that keep you engaged year in, year out. Oh, and they have forms for volunteer hours and get a performance review on how many they collect each month.

 

And as you gather and review the various relevant documents associated with climbing at Beacon you better understand there is an unwritten history of attitudes, behaviors, and incidents that go hand-in-hand with all those documents. Also understand that all regulatory processes ultimately have a political element to them; particularly when it comes to navigating regulatory and legal isssues in the course of attempting to achieve your ends. In that respect there are always interpretations, minutiae, and gotchas involved that can trip you up but which can be 'overlooked' by understanding or sympathetic stakeholders / allies or - just as easily - used to fuck you by people you've slagged, antagonized, and whose lives or jobs you made more difficult.

 

Part of all that means learning, understanding, and embracing the history and legacy of climber actions and behaviors over the years at Beacon - not all of it is pretty by any means regardless of the indignation or rationales behind them. Learn that history and don't make the same 'feel-good' mistakes that were made in the past. Don't dismiss that legacy or think it's not something that still has to be overcome to some extent when dealing with various stakeholders.

 

Overall, earn a little respect and a place at the broader table out there, because, if you just try to show up with your highlighted, underlined documents, and indignant demands in hand, you'll quickly find yourself getting nowhere fast. Another important point: be very careful of the budget / workload impact of anything you formally inquire about or propose on BRSP. If investigating or implementing some aspect of your agenda unduly burdens those guys they are going to clam-up and become immediately uncooperative (i.e. no more early opens at the very least). Oh, and realize anything big will be open for public review and comment which takes time and people may show up who don't share your ideas.

 

Another important point - do the leg work and get the facts firsthand from authoritative sources. For example, the blasting issue (or, say, the big, new hiking trail development project under Ozone), better check your facts real close and maybe get a copy of the impact statements, because I can guarantee you Dave isn't letting anyone blast within a radius that will adversely impact the Peregrines. If it were an unavoidable safety imperative then I'm guessing Dave would both insist on all sorts of blast containment / blanketing and be there in person when it happened. Don't jump to conclusions on the sound of the words because it seems like they suit your point or agenda - get the real story as there's always more to it. Be as objective and journalistic as possible and strive to occasionally get outside your narrow agenda to check in with the bigger picture .

 

And last, understand the BRSP is the LEAST powerful stakeholder of them all from among the mix of the railroad, tribes, Gorge Commission, Skamania County, WDFW, WDHA, WSP Olympia, etc. Even when the BRSP is on our side and in agreement, they typically have to pass it by WSP Olympia at a minimum and sometimes also the Gorge Commission, WDHA, and others. Also remember the BRSP and WSP has defended climbing at Beacon in the past and they like the cache climbing gives the park versus other WA parks. When it comes to dealing with Olympia, agencies, and other stakeholders, Erik is your best friend. And don't make the mistake of underestimating the local and national power of the Audubon Society - you don't want them involved and leaning on WDFW while talking to every TV news station in PDX as they have been in the past.

 

Good luck...

Well said Joseph. Thanks for reminding me what I was already aware of. Very accurate, too. (IMO)

[pink]

 

Don't bombard the Erik (BRSP), Dave (WDFW), and Lisa (WSP Olympia) as a bunch of random individuals - do it in an organized and managed fashion through the BRCA. Pick a spokesperson

 

That's nice JH. That way YOU controll everything.

uh, kev, he said pick a spokesperson, and he wasn't volunteering

 

 

ivan.... STFU you fucking windbag!!!!!

 

[pink]

waiting for a new journal entry....

I've been down to the docks, twice in the past week, but only for about a half hour. Did not see any sign of them, maybe the moved out?

 

get a clue dude... they will never open up beacon until the birds fly away. stop wasting your fucking time at beacon. why do you think larry, mike and i moved the fuck away? we all love beacon. north and west face sucks. the closing of beacon has destroyed opdyke and joseph is next. get the fuck out of portland.

[ivan]

ivan.... STFU you fucking windbag!!!!!

spent the whole day climbing on bacon

[pink]

ivan.... STFU you fucking windbag!!!!!

spent the whole day climbing on bacon

 

with your kids????

[denalidave]

waiting for a new journal entry....

I've been down to the docks, twice in the past week, but only for about a half hour. Did not see any sign of them, maybe the moved out?

 

get a clue dude... they will never open up beacon until the birds fly away. stop wasting your fucking time at beacon. why do you think larry, mike and i moved the fuck away? we all love beacon. north and west face sucks. the closing of beacon has destroyed opdyke and joseph is next. get the fuck out of portland.

I'm just try'n to get me some ejamakation on dem birds. I may take your advice, although I'm not from Portland... Where else should I waste my time? Calirado?

[denalidave]

ivan.... STFU you fucking windbag!!!!!

spent the whole day climbing on bacon

 

with your kids????

I thought Geoff was more like his boyfriend... sickie Not that there is anything wrong with that...

[ivan]

 

with your kids????

sunday is famb-iwy day - forced march cross country to albertson's maybe?

[JosephH]

joseph is next. get the fuck out of portland.

Oh, I'll evaporate soon enough. But the only thing that might 'destroy' me out at Beacon is the new route. Other than that I'll more likely be giving up climbing for surfing, but with my luck only to be destroyed by a wave. Aloha.

[billcoe]

Ujahn came back from Costa Rica couple weeks ago and I haven't seen him since. He's building a surfboard right now in his garage though. Guess they had a great time on the water.

[dhrmabum]

Alrighty Beacon climbers. I might get sprayed with shit on this, but, I'm gonna ask anyway.

I was coming down from Hamilton yesterday, Sat. and I saw two guys climbing the . . . N. side? facing/right over the highway, practically. Anyway, the lead climber ran into a tree in his way, one of those precariously balanced, growing out of a crack, hanging on to dear life trees. Japanese style and all. Anyway, guess he couldn't place the pro exactly where he wanted, so he began breaking branches off of the little tree.

I got pissed, and even though I was far away and in my car, yelled out the window at them. The lower climber heard me, and yelled up to the lead. They looked over, and continued climbing.

Anyway, what's the protocol/ethics on this? I know some of you guys clean moss off off the rock, etc. And, I'm not a rock climber, so I have a different perspective than you guys. But, dunno, just bothered me to look up at this beautiful rock, state park, a rock I've hiked up and admired many times, and see this little tree there, clinging to life(who knows how long it's been there), and see some climber ripping branches off of it because it was in his way. . .

I'm not really here to get in a shouting match with anyone, or break anyone's balls, but, wondered what you guys thought of such actions, and how they might be justified?

Thanks.

[ivan]

that was me - the branches i was snapping off werent' green but dead - the climbing managment plan says you can't kill trees, so i don't - i like trees, they make nice anchors n' pro points (you might have noticed if you took the whole scene in that i had slung that tree to keep me alive )- anyhow, i wasn't going through the tree, but left of it - it's a problem if the dead gnarled branches are grabbing you as you go past

 

come climb sometime, espeically at beacon - its a balance - you remove what needs to go and leave the rest alone

 

sorry if you thought i was pissing on gaia - she actually my girlfriend

 

you might be intersted to know the entire east face of the rock is closed to prtoect various shrubs n' flowers n' trees, as is the south side for fornicating birds for half the year, plus most of the west face - the n side is what we climbers get this time of year, and the whole thing is coated in green stuff, a thin line which must be cut to pass through - how many trees got the chop for the w side trail do you think?

[ivan]

WWJD?

 

what would jack (kerouac) do?