Rapping w/ 10mm and 8mm

[Crillz]

What is the concensus with these diameters?

 

Would you always set up the rap so that you were pulling the 8mm, or are the diameters close enough? Actually 9.9 vs 8.

 

I'm going to use a 1/2 rope as my tag line. I'm nervous about stuck ropes on this trip, so I'm leaning against a static, skinnier tag line.

[Dane]

Recently I've been rapping on one 7.8 twin and a 5mm static or even just the 5mm. Works fine with a small rope Petzl reversino. I always pull the 7.8 when doing full 60m raps

[pdk]

I can never remember - can I use the euro-death-knot for rapping off ropes of different diameters?

[alexbaker]

I have rapped a fair bit with an 11mm/8mm combo. It worked fine. The 8mm of course wants to slide a bit quicker but I wouldn't stress it.

 

Anyway, that's my 2 cents hope it helps.

[pms]

do you mean the overhand knot? I saw they used it in the new eiger movie and it did not fail..

Edited February 12, 2010 by pms

[pdk]

Yes, sorry - the overhand knot. I know there are some knots that are to be avoided w/ ropes of different diameters.

 

 

 

[Pete_H]

I got it from a certified IAFGAI or whatever guide that its cool to use the overhand knot on ropes of diffferent diameters and I've been doing it ever sense.

[genepires]

Before there was tests which have shown that different diameter ropes were less than ideal for the overhand knot (thank god no one called it the euro death knot yet), we used to rap on a 11 mm / 7mm combo and we didn't die. Still not a good idea though just due to knot creep. But your 2mm difference between rope diameters is not much so hopefully knot creep won't be much of an issue.

 

Your hesitancy to skinny static is a good one. If getting a rope stuck is a real possibility, I would want to have the thicker lead line pulled so I would have that to lead back and clear the stuck skinny rope.

[Dane]

Euro death knot works fine. Just make sure it is laid correctly and you take a bit moe time with it than you would with a pair of 9s for example. I also leave a good tail and dbl knot it.

 

Like anything new to you in climbing, try it first under controlled circumstances before you bail off that 70 meter over hang

[spotly]

I've use the overhand with long tails and well-dressed. One advantage is that it's less likely to jam as apposed to fishermans. Seems adding knots in the tails would be counterproductive to that though.

[pms]

yep, just like in the movie. Other benefit, not difficult to untie if wet/frozen.

[Dane]

Seems adding knots in the tails would be counterproductive to that though.

 

Agreed. Biggest reason my ropes hang is the inability on occasion to choose a clear and easy pulling anchor location. Its not been the knot/knots generally. 5mm and 7/9mm is a funky set up even though it works fine and the single knot I find...well....honestly...a bit scary

 

[stevetimetravlr]

In general, skinny ropes get hung up much easier then thicker ropes when you pull them if the terrain is rope catching.

[danhelmstadter]

i rapped once useing a 5mil with a rap ring and a 2 mil pull cord, i think it was something like 30meter vertical in rmnp, the 5 mil stretched a LOT. super light though.

[MtnPaul]

If super skinny lines (5mm/6mm) get really wet the sheath can slip quite alot over the core of the rope. Not very confidence inspiring if you ever experience it!