Mixed climbing routes and crags

[shannonpahl]

I'd like to get a list of mixed / drytools crags and routes in the state.

 

I know of 4 crags: Issaquah, Exit 38, Snoqualmie and Mt Baker ski area (more details about each route in those crags would be great), ok and maybe Stone Gardens :-). Any other crags?

 

What about good mixed routes (with ratings)? (e.g. Pinnacle peak N ridge in MRNP - M4?, NY gulley ...)

[ColinB]

Illumination Rock on Mt Hood

-Skylight II M5

-Skylight Direct III(?) 5.10 AI4+ M5 (?)

 

Way more possibilities if you explore the side facing the Reid Glacier.

[G-spotter]

in the state

presumably WA

first reply is from OR

 

typical cc.com

[marc_leclerc]

The Tool Shed Wall at Baker has two bolted lines. Gorrila Bar, M8 to the right and Anhialator (sp?) M7+, or WI6 if the pillar forms.

[pdk]

in the state

presumably WA

first reply is from OR

 

typical cc.com

 

That's ok - we have better mixed climbing down here anyhow....

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/925973/Searchpage/1/Main/71362/Words/deer+hunter/Search/true/Gorge_Ice_2009#Post925973

[shannonpahl]

ok, WA or OR will do. Good stuff so far, keep them coming ...

[Off_White]

in the state

presumably WA

first reply is from OR

 

typical cc.com

 

Well, we can't all live near the Coast Range

[G-spotter]

You mean the one in Alaska or the one in California?

[Off_White]

I was just trying to get you to say it, but then, you knew that:

 

"Its the Coast Mountains..."

[shannonpahl]

Any more ideas?

[Dane]

WA is so condition dependant..most of these can be all ice or all rock depending on...well how lucky you are

 

On Snoqualmie there is:

Pineapple Express

Blue Moon

Ny Gully

Ny Gully Direct

A new one done this winter ..thread somewhere by Marcus IIRC and a couple more I forgot the names to

Chair can be mixed or ice on the NE butt and n face

The mighty tooff!

Dragonatil has:

NE Coulir if you do the left hand finish

Gerber/Sink

Triple Couloirs and the rest...

Snow Creekwall white slabs..and others

Leavenworth when it is in has a bunch of them..most like to wait for the ice.

 

I heard the Cable is now bolted on the bottom half for dry tooling to the hanger whn it is not down.

 

Lots more just takes a little digging. Getting soem of the 'perts here to fess up

 

The "classic" Cascade guide books all offer great mixed and dry tool routes in the right conditions.

[genepires]

While the list of "mixed crags" looks complete, the reality of it is you could go mostly anywhere in snoq pass and find a place to scratch your tools up on. Walk around (hopefully not near somebodies residence) find a rocky outcrop and throw a TR on it. PLenty of trees around. Not really leadable, or include any ice, but you could "mixed" climb for a long time. (actually I suppose it would be called rock climbing with ice gear)

 

Or even road cuts on untraveled roads like logging roads. (keep belayers far away from cliff base. loose rock)

 

BTW. I have not done any of this. Just a thought.

[spiderman]

Just to correct Dane's post. We haven't got the bolts in to the left side of the Cable yet, as my buddies very old drill crapped out in the middle of another mixed line. Hopefully the Cable's mixed line will be complete fairly soon. We probably won't go out there until we get our hands on a reliable drill.

 

[tomtom]

I was just trying to get you to say it, but then, you knew that:

 

"Its the Coast Mountains..."

 

It's

[montypiton]

A great number of Icicle Canyon rock-climbs are done in mixed conditions each winter. Dr. Shipman and I have done several on what Beckey's original guidebook called the "Candlestein Crags", between Rainbow Gully and Careno Crag. Most folks focus on the two obvious lines that I've seen called "Careno Right and Careno Left" which, in deference to Beckey's older name, the Old Farts call "Candlestein Left, and Candlestein Right", but there are numerous others. These are trad lines, and generally rely on one's ability to visually identify a line and climb it, without beta. Doc and I have done a number of mixed lines on Icicle Buttress, as well, and I've done a number of the classics like the Funnel in "mixed" conditions also. It hardly seems worth attempting to catalogue these mixed lines, as whether they are ice, mixed, or rock climbs varies almost day-to-day. But since you asked, I'm attempting to supply a meaningful answer. Does climbing Midway on Castle Rock in a storm that dumped 8" of snow while we climbed the chimney count as mixed? That was the first climb I ever did with Gordon Briody, back in December of 1980...