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Posted

I was in the same area the previous weekend (dribbles area) and noticed very unstable snow. While hiking around the top we experienced large cracks going through the snow. We were spooked enough to give up on the walk-off and rap the route.

 

I have to question why the climbers continued to force up the gully after setting off the first slide(?) Sliding 300 feet would be enough for me to bail or at least go climb something else that day. I really hate to hear about people dying this way, what a waste.

 

Condolences to Guy's family and friends. Sounds like a good person and the world needs more of those.

Posted (edited)

As you know already ...

 

Here is Doug Chabot and his assessment of the avalanche which swept Guy. Two climbers above him, triggered the slide with tragic consequences.

 

I have a question for you ...

My intention is not to blame anyone, I just like to know what do you think.

 

I am not familiar with the ice climbing competitions (I even cannot call myself ice climber) but I was wondering, is organizer required to do some assessment of the area before the competition starts? Do you actually know who is above you and below you any given day of the competition?

 

I suspect that it is hard to do "cleanup" of all areas around, and it's done for most of the approaches and critical gullies.

 

Looks like it is hard to prevent something like this happening again, because area is so complex.

 

[video:youtube]

Edited by Zoran
Posted

Seems to me the whole idea of an "ice-fest" is stupid and counter-productive unless you like waiting in line for climbs and climbing hacked-out ice.

 

More people = less ice and more danger.

 

Don't most people go climbing to get away from crowds?

Posted

I have a question for you ...

My intention is not to blame anyone, I just like to know what do you think.

 

I am not familiar with the ice climbing competitions (I even cannot call myself ice climber) but I was wondering, is organizer required to do some assessment of the area before the competition starts? Do you actually know who is above you and below you any given day of the competition?

 

I suspect that it is hard to do "cleanup" of all areas around, and it's done for most of the approaches and critical gullies.

 

Looks like it is hard to prevent something like this happening again, because area is so complex.

Climb at your own risk- I think Guy would agree. There is no reason to blame anyone, being in the mountains is risky. Just a case of wrong place at the wrong time.

BTW there was usually one or two fatalities during Paris Dakar rally- just know what you are getting into.

Of course it hurts and sucks to see your friend die, but Guy knew the risks.

Posted

There will be a memorial for Guy Lacelle in Canmore, Alberta, Saturday, January 16th, 2010. It is open to everyone and anyone that knew Guy or was just inspired by the greatest human being I've ever known. Make your plans now and hope to see you there. I will be posting more details as I know them.

 

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