JoJo

Greetings! Hyalite Canyon is full on - it was climbing great even before the cold snap. Everything is IN! The cold is giving us a little more time inside to keep planning the upcoming 14th Annual Arc'Teryx Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival, December 9-12. Lots of improvements this year with redesigned clinics, a new killer venue and more top athletes. All hyperbole aside, the Women's Only Clinic on Friday the 10th is blessed with what I consider one of the greatest collections of ice climbers (boy or girl) ever assembled for a singular event of this type. This season we have Caroline George, Majka Burhardt, Audrey Gariepy, Sarah Hueniken, Lilla Molnar, Mattie Sheafor and Emily Stifler. Throw in the free slide show the night before and all the latest demo gear for a grand total of 40 bucks it's the deal of the decade. It's also the only day of the year I wish I was a girl. We still have a few spots open for this incredible day so go to www.bozemanicefestival.com to sign up. Thanks everyone! JoJo Ice Fest Info & Signups: www.bozemanicefest.com Our Blog: www.bozemanicefest.wordpress.com Facebook: Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival Twitter: @bozemanicefest

The face right of the Warbler got climbed this year by some Japanese climbers. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-logan-giri-giri There will be a complete Mountain Profile in Alpinist 31. It's at the printer right now! JoJo

All things equal, a vertical V-thread is stronger than the same anchor horizontally placed. This is due to the nature of ice to crack horizontally. My testing in 1989 and decades or experience have shown this. I've used vertical ones for years although more often than not I use horizontal ones just because they are easier for me to connect. Just like a screw, the quality of a V-thread is directly proportional to the quality of the ice, this includes temperature. Cold, dry ice is MUCH stronger than soft, wet ice. A good v-thread, either horizontal or vertical, will be super bomber.

There will be a memorial for Guy Lacelle in Canmore, Alberta, Saturday, January 16th, 2010. It is open to everyone and anyone that knew Guy or was just inspired by the greatest human being I've ever known. Make your plans now and hope to see you there. I will be posting more details as I know them.

Long time Ice Fest friend and athlete, Zoë Hart use to joke about the Bozeman Ice Festival as the Bozeman "Hook Up" festival. See you all in the hot tub!

The road is fine. It's plowed now to the Grotto Falls Parking Lot between December 1st and April 1st. The Gallatin County crews might not get to right away after a snow storm since it's lower on their priority list but it will get done none-the-less. This dreamy situation is the result of several years of negotiation between climbers, skiers, other community members, Gallatin County and Gallatin National Forest. Two years ago the Forest was planning on gating the entire road at the bottom all winter long. To make a long story short, that is no longer the case and it's not only open but also plowed. Thanks to the recent stimulus packages, guard rails were installed along the lower road to keep the yahoos out of the creek and polluting Bozeman's water supply. On that note, the road can get quite slick or if it's snowing hard for the day it can pile up quickly. A good car, snow tires, a shovel and a healthy dose of respect, patience and common sense is still required. The East Fork Road is not plowed but is still open until January 1st. After that you would have to ski into Palisade or Flanders or the other East Fork Routes (the road is a popular XC ski trail so there is usually a good track).

HERE IS SOMETHING FROM THE PRESS RELEASE AND A SCHEDULE FOR THE ICE FESTIVAL. HOPE TO SEE SOME OF YOU THERE! The Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival Celebrates 15th Years Bozeman, MT – Mark your calendar for the Arc’Teryx Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival December 10th through the 13th. Now in it’s 15th year, The Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival has become one of premier events of it’s kind with ice climbers from around North America, from novice to best climbers in the world, convening on Hyalite Canyon and Bozeman to climb, compete, teach and learn from each other. With more than 150 climbs within a three-mile square-radius, Hyalite Canyon, just south of Bozeman, is home to the most condensed, naturally consistent ice climbing in America. Proudly sponsored by Arc’Teryx, the Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival offers daily instruction clinics in Hyalite by some of the best and most experienced men and women ice climbers in the world, including Guy Lacelle, Josh Wharton, Jack Roberts, Joe Josephson, Sarah Heuniken, Caroline George, and many more. The on-ice clinics are just $50 and include all the gear you’ll need, admission to the slide shows, wrap party and gear give-aways. The nightly events at the Emerson Cultural Center, 111 South Grand, are jam-packed with slide shows, films and raffles for top-notch gear from festival supporters including: Arc’Teryx, Mammut, Outdoor Research, American Alpine Club, Northern Lights, Barrel Mountaineering, Black Diamond, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Petzl, Patagonia and more. All nightly shows and gear raffles are open to the general public for a $5 admission. Quickly becoming one of the most anticipated events is the 3rd Annual Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker. In the Saturday Open division, climbers of any ability can see how many routes they can do in a single day to win valuable gear prizes. The Invitational athletes compete for a chance to have their name on the Grivel Golden Ice Axe, the Stanley Cup of ice climbing, on display at Northern Lights, 1716 West Babcock. The Bozeman Ice Festival's mission is to promote the sport of ice climbing to people of all ages and abilities, to educate ice climbers about climbing skills and safe climbing techniques, and introduce climbers to cutting edge ice climbing clothing and equipment. This year, the Arc’Teryx Bozeman Ice Festival celebrates the recent collaborative efforts between the community, Gallatin County and the Gallatin National Forest to keep the Hyalite Canyon Road open winter long to access the world-class climbing, skiing and winter recreation available there. “It’s really a grassroots community event designed to celebrate the sport and the incredible back yard we have in Hyalite” said Joe Josephson, festival organizer and author of “Winter Dance,” a guide book to ice climbing in Hyalite and the Beartooth Mountains. “No other festival in the country provides such an intimate three-day event where anyone, regardless of their experience level, can partake and interact with so many other supportive guides, gear reps, athletes and like-minded souls. It is truly an unparalleled opportunity to check out and experience the unique sport of ice climbing.” Register online at www.bozemanicefestival.com Find us on FACEBOOK @ Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival Schedule of Events Thursday, December 10th 7:00 am – 4:00 pm The 3rd Annual Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker Invitational. Hyalite Canyon 5:00 pm – 7:00 pm Demo Gear checkout for the Women’s Clinic at the Emerson Cultural Center, 111 South Grand Ave, Bozeman, MT 7:30 pm – 10:00 pm Mammut presents, “A slide show by Josh Wharton featuring climbing expeditions to Pakistan, Patagonia and Alaska.” Friday, December 11th 8:00 am – 4:00 pm Women’s Only Ice Climbing Clinic in Hyalite Canyon 5:00 pm- 7:00 pm Demo gear checkout for the Saturday Clinics at the Emerson Cultural Center, 111 South Grand Ave, Bozeman, MT 7:30 pm – 10:00 pm World Premier of “The Continuum Project: A film by Chris Alstrin” at the Emerson Cultural Center, 111 South Grand, Bozeman, MT. Saturday, December 12th 8:00 am – 4:00 pm Ice Climbing Clinics at Hyalite Canyon 7:00 am – 4:00 pm Ice Breaker Open Class Competition 5:00 pm – 7:00 pm Demo Gear Checkout for the Sunday Clinics at the Emerson Cultural Center, 111 South Grand Ave, Bozeman, MT 7:30 pm- 10:00 pm Outdoor Research and the American Alpine Club present the Bozeman premier of “Way Point Namibia by Majka Burhardt” at the Emerson Cultural Center, 111 South Grand. Sunday, December 13th 8:00 am – 4:00 pm Ice Climbing Clinics at Hyalite Canyon. 7:00 - ? Wrap party for participants with raffle drawings, contest winners, and more at the Emerson Cultural Center. Details to be announced. The event is proudly sponsored by: Arc’Teryx, Mammut, Outdoor Research, American Alpine Club, Northern Lights Trading Company, Barrel Mountaineering, Pipestone Mountaineering, Black Diamond Equipment Limited, Petzl/Charlet North America, La Sportiva, Montana Alpine Guides, Andes Mtn. Guides, and more. Please register online at www.bozemanicefestival.com Or, call Northern Lights Trading Co, 406-586-2225, 1716 West Babcock, Bozeman, MT

The top of Feeding the Cat is "Mossome!" FYI: When I first published "Winter Dance" no one had ever seen The Matrix fully formed. That is one reason the caption calls it "fat." In fact, it had only been climbed a handful of times as late as 2003. Now it's a trade route, not to mention being more accessible thanks to the road being plowed. It's about every third year or so that it comes in big like this year.

If there was ever any doubt about the ice in Hyalite, check out this stat: At 3:00 am December 1st it was 27.5 degrees Farenheit at 8,100 feet in Hyalite Canyon. At 11:00 pm December 1st it was negative 5.7 degrees Farenheit. From: http://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/snotel/snotel.pl?sitenum=754&state=mt Bring it on!

Frieh, WTF do you mean getting your name approved on "his" website? Jim Earl runs that thing but I think I do have some level of admin capacity. You having IT problems? Just let me know. As far as the WI 6 in a day clinic... Just sign up and come and ask the guest instructors to help you out. That has always been one of the nice things about our fest. We just all show up and combine the participant energy with the instructors and make the most of it. Lots of one-on-one and just hanging out with everyone. I would think the likes of Guy Lacelle, Jack Tackle, Jack Roberts, Whit Magro, Dean Lords, Sarah Hueniken, Caroline George and Josh Wharton could show us all as much as anyone could in one day (or better yet make it two ;-) Of course, Frieh will be getting cliniced on Thursday and Friday of the Hyalite Ice Breaker Invitational! Indeed, the Men's version is going to be two epic days this year. I project it's going to take 25-30,000 points to win. This is something when you consider "Winter Dance" (overall the hardest route in the Canyon) is the highest scoring route at 10,000 points. Northwest Passage (a M12 on Unnamed Wall) gets 6,000. Think about it! So many routes are in right now, it's going to be epic just deciding the best combination of routes to do! As many of you remember, Frieh and Schmidtzy got third last year. Now that Brian is a full-time monkey for the Man, I've had to put John and Brian on the same non-local side of the event. Thus, they'll have to put their usual man-love on hold as they climb with other hard core locals. Ok. that's all for now. I'll post more info later or if anyone has question about the Bozeman Ice Festival just PM me. Cheers, JoJo

To answer some of the questions posed above: If you are looking at the Bozeman weather, the temps over the last month may have looked sketchy for Hyalite Ice. Quite the opposite! 50 degrees in Bozeman more often translates into perfect temps for Hyalite. It's been going off up there for over a month now. It's the best year in years. It's getting quite cold right now so it's only getting better. Hyalite doesn't get very crowded, at least when compared to most Canadian Rockies or Colorado routes. The Genesis area, Mummy II and Corner climbs get busy on the weekends but the scene is very low keyed with a great vibe. I typically do The Matrix and Champagne Sherbert at least a couple of times a year and I've never seen another person on either. Even the Unnamed Wall is surprisingly uncrowded most of the time. During the Ice Festival Dec 11-13 it might get a bit busier than usual since the clinics take up Genesis 1 & 2 and Mummy 2. But that leaves about 130+ other routes (with everything from WI 2-3 to easy mixed to as hard as you want to climb up to WI7 and M12) for you to go do. The canyon is used by more than just climbers so don't let the number of cars in the parking lot scare you. I did Dribbles last year in March and there were 20+ cars in the parking lot. We didn't see another soul all day other than in the parking lot. Go to the East Fork or the Upper Main Canyon and you'll likely have it all to yourself! Some one asked about south facing routes. Aspect isn't as big a deal here as it is in the South Fork of the Shoshone near Cody. Hyalite Canyon runs north-south. Guy Lacelle and I spent yesterday in Hyalite and I put a condition report up at Montana Ice Dot Com http://montanaice.com/node/1227 with all the details. Hope to see you up there! JoJo

I'm in need of economic stimulus. Thus, I have the following for sale. All are in perfect condition, except where noted. Rare 0 (first printing) - $50 #1 still in plastic - $70 #2 - $65 #2 - $65 #3 - $65 #3 - $65 #4 minor edge wear - $60 #5 minor edge wear - $30 #5 - $35 #6 - $35 #7 - $35 #8 - $35 #8 still in paper envelope - $50 #9 - $35 #X - $35 #11 - $75 #15 - $25 #15 - $25 #15 - $25 #16 - $25 #17 - $25 #21 - $20 #22 - $20 FREE SHIPPING. I accept PayPal. Please PM or email at firstascentpress at gmail dot com Thanks!

I have a brand new, never been out of the bag, still has it's tags, MSR StormKing 4-season tent for sale. 4-5 persons. Perfect for your next expedition. I have another one that I've used on 4 month-long trips to the Yukon. Still going strong and will use it again. Deluxe as a 2-person base camp. I cook in the vestibule so in those big St. Elias storms, I never have to go outside except for number 2. Why have a kitchen outside? Any fool can be uncomfortable! They no longer make these and I think they were $800+ new. This one is yours for $500 including shipping, UPS. Will accept PayPal. I have scans of the tags and a photo of the tent in action posted over at Montana Ice: http://montanaice.com/node/936

Overall, conditions in Hyalite are spectacular and only getting better. Plus, after the last road plowing you can now get to the parking lot in a golf cart.

Hard to say if "Home Field Advantage" will still be around in a few weeks. It gets a lot of sun. Last weekend when I was up there, the top ice was already getting smaller. Don't know if the freeze will keep up with the melt. Regardless of conditions, you can still top rope whatever is left, thin veneer in the crack and great cobbles, as well as the TR cobble routes to the right or the left. Climb the moderate mixed, big groove on the right to reach the anchor/tree. The thin ice route in the next alcove above, "Through Four More," is a great, short climb as well.

"Home Field Advantage" has turned into an instant classic. Half a dozen repeats already. Overall, Hyalite is in great shape with lots of ice free of avalanche hazard. G1 is virtually one complete sheet of ice. It's unreal. Cleo's/Scepter/Dribbles/Thrill is Gone/Champagne along with the rest of the usual suspects are all in perfect nick. Good donkey trails getting around now too.

I've a pair of the yellow/black original Machines in great shape. Haven't thought about selling them although I don't use them anymore. What do you have to trade?

FYI: There are three pair of Grivel Crampons for sale over on Montana Ice. http://montanaice.com/forum/community/buy-sell

A little more on Team PDXs recent days in Hyalite: http://montanaice.com/node/901

I was stoked to have Mr Frieh in the Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker. I am eternally grateful for all he and the rest of the CC.com community has done over the years to help protect access up Hyalite Canyon. The road is plowed this season so come on out and get after it. Hyalite Provides! Here are the results of the Thursday Invitational and Saturday Open Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker Comps. Remember, the Open is open to anyone! Hope to see you next year. Once again, the Thursday athletes ticked an impressive number of climbs, with some link ups never before completed. Men's Champions Pierre Darbellay and Alex Lussier (the 2007 Open Champion), not only broke trails to the remote routes Kansas Cornfield and Land of the Lost, they ticked off Cleo's while on their way to climbing 15 pitches total, and got to speak French all day to boot. This is two more pitches than the 2007 Champions Guy Lacelle and Ross Lynn. Whit Magro and Adam George showed everyone a new way to link up two of the absolute best, and hardest, routes in Hyalite by walking the ledge between Zach Attack and Upper Mummy Cooler. Pat Wolfe made first tracks of the year on The Sceptre in freehanging-dagger, way-burly conditions. Meanwhile Kris Erickson and Juan Villagra came within "one more route" of the top prize by tearing it up in the Genesis area when many other parties went for fewer, higher scoring routes. Jen Olson defended her 2007 Championship, this time teamed up with fellow UIAGM guide and Canmoron;-), Lilla Molnar. This duo absolutely crushed it by scoring 3,000 points more than the nearest Women's team by climbing 11 pitches including two great harder routes, Responsible Family Men (should be renamed "Hard Canadian Chicks") and The Matrix, that no one else on the day climbed. In total, over 110 pitches were climbed on 48 different routes. It's impossible to equally compare Thursday and Saturdays results since there was about a 35-40 degree difference in temperature and the ticks would have changed due to other parties, or not, on some of the routes that got climbed a bunch. Regardless, Nate Opp and Aaron Thrasher turned in one of the more impressive Hyalite days EVER in the Saturday Open event. They even made it back before 4 pm with time to spare. It was fitting, of course, since Nate was lined up for the Thursday Invitational but got skunked when his partner, Roger Strong, came down with the flu. The other highlights from Saturday Open were a new WI 4 route by the Women's Champions Ashley Williams and Ashley Lehman. This is the 2nd year in a row the Ice Breaker Open has produced a new route. The Hardest Pitch award goes to Marc Beverly, a climbing guide from N.M., and his ascent of Airborne Ranger in mixed conditions. This M9 or 10 sketchy-cobbles onto the free-hanging dagger was only the 2nd ascent ever. Some of you may remember this is the rig Alex rode when it snapped and careened over the head of Scott Backes and Bill Belcourt with Alex escaping with "only" 8 stitches. It normally is done as a full ice pillar and only Whit Magro has done it in full mixed conditions as Marc did this weekend. Kudos! Needless to say, Marc earned an invite to the Ice Breaker next year on that one. Here are the complete results: The 2nd Annual Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker Invitational Results Thursday, December 4th, 2008 : 7:00 am starting time, 4:00 pm finish. • 100 point time penalty for every 10 minutes (or fraction thereof) late. • Competitors must complete at least one route in three of four areas: Genesis/Mummy Area, Unnamed Wall Area, Winter Dance/Dribbles Area, Twin Falls Area. • Full point score for each route divided by total number of ascents. Men’s & Women’s tallied separately. • Men’s & Women’s Champions each received a new Mammut Rope plus their names inscribed on the Ice Breaker Golden Ice Axe Trophy. Men’s Invitational Standings: 1. Pierre Darbellay (Verbier, Switzerland) & Alex Lussier (Bozeman) – 7,750 points with no time penalty, 15 pitches. Fat Chance, White Zombie, Thin Chance, Kansas Cornfield, Twin Falls Left, Twin Falls Right, Cleopatra’s Needle, Slot Corner, Land of the Lost, Pillar Right, Curtains, Over Easy. 2. Kris Erickson (Livingston) & Juan Villagra (Argentina) – 7,367 points with no time penalty, 10 pitches. Clump Tree, Genesis I Original, Genesis I Middle, Genesis I Right, Hang Over, Hang Over Mixed Variation, Genesis II, Elevator Shaft, Solstice I, Equinox. 3. Bryan Schmitz (Portland) & John Frieh (Portland) – 6,775 points with no time penalty, 13 pitches. Mummy I, Fat Chance, Crypt Orchid, Cave and Gully, Feeding the Cat, Magically Delish, Over Easy, The Western, Avalanche Gully Bottom, Dribbles. 4. Whit Magro (Bozeman) & Adam George (Salt Lake City) – 6,583 points with no time penalty, 7 pitches. Zach Attack I-III, Mummy III & IV, Good Looking One, Curtains. 5. Mattieu Audibert (Quebec) & Ross Lynn (Bozeman) – 6,467 points with no time penalty, 14 pitches. Thin Chance, Switchback Falls, Elevator Shaft, Fat One, Itchy & Scratchy, The Scrappy One, Thrill is Gone, Avalanche Bottom, Dribbles, Silken Falls. 6. Pat Wolfe (Bozeman) & Stan Price (Billings) – 4,083 points with no time penalty, 9 pitches. Mummy I, The Sceptre, Twin Falls Left, Twin Falls Right, Cleopatra’s Needle, Slot Corner II, Curtains, Over Easy. 7. Mark Givens (Jackson) & Chris Hamilton (Bozeman) – 3,758 points with 100 point time penalty, 9 pitches. Fat Chance, Elevator Shaft, Itchy & Scratchy, Twin Falls Left, Twin Falls Right, Cleopatra’s Needle, Ice Breaker, Equinox. Women’s Invitational Standings: 1. Jen Olson (Canmore) & Lilla Molnar (Canmore) – 6,933 points with 300 point penalty, 11 pitches. Fat Chance, Thin Chance, Crypt Orchid, The Matrix, Cave and Gully, Feeding the Cat, Fat One, Over Easy, Responsible Family Men, Avalanche Bottom. 2. Caroline George (Salt Lake City) & Sarah Hueniken (Canmore) – 3,933 points with 200 point penalty, 10 pitches. Fat One, Avalanche Bottom, Dribbles, Silken Falls, Fat Chance, Switchback Falls. 3. Audrey Gariepy (Quebec) & Amber Seyler (Bozeman) – 3,633 points with no time penalty, 7 pitches. Fat Chance, Switchback Falls, Elevator Shaft, Fat One, Thrill is Gone, Curtains, Over Easy. 4. Margo Talbot (Nelson, BC) & Althea Rogers (Bozeman) – 3,050 points with no time penalty, 4 pitches. G1 Original, Twin Falls Left, Ice Breaker, Elevator Shaft. The 2nd Annual Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker Open Results Saturday, December 6th 2008 : 7:00 am starting time, 4:00 pm finish. • 100 point time penalty for every 10 minutes (or fraction thereof) late. • Competitors must complete at least one route in three of five areas: Genesis Area, Mummy Area, Unnamed Wall Area, Winter Dance/Dribbles Area, Twin Falls Area. • Full point score for each route divided by total number of ascents of all teams. Open Division Standings: 1. Nate Opp & Aaron Thrasher (Bozeman) – 9,933 points with no time penalty, 14 pitches. Hang Over, Switchback, Desert Dance, Slot Corner, Land of the Lost, Winter Dance 1st pitch, Curtains, Over Easy, Responsible Family Men, Dribbles. Each winners of a new rope from Mammut and automatic invite to the 2009 Thursday Invitational. 2. Tyler Nygard (Bozeman) & Hermes Lynn (Livingston) – 4,441 points with no time penalty. 11 pitches. Elevator Shaft, The Fat One, Scrappy One, Upper Greensleeves, Hang Over, Hang Over Variation, Soprano, Mummy 1, Crypt Orchid, Cave n Gully, Feeding the Cat. 2nd Place Award for each, a one-month pass to Spire Climbing Center. 3. Marc Beverly & Justin Spain (Albuquerque) – 3,793 points with a 200 point penalty. 6 pitches. The Fat One, Sleeping Giant, Cleopatra’s Needle, Airborne Ranger. Winner of a Mammut Slack Line Kit for “Hardest Pitch Award” (Marc Beverly leading Airborne Ranger in mixed conditions, only the 2nd ascent.) Justin given a Mammut belay device. 4. Dustin Fric & Travis McAlpine (Jackson) – 2,926 points with no time penalty. 8 pitches. Elevator Shaft, The Fat One, Itchy & Scratchy Show, Scrappy One, Thrill is Gone, Lower Greensleeves, Switchback Falls, Twin Falls Right. 5. Mike Ochs & Thad Swant (Great Falls) – 2,726 points with no time penalty. 5 pitches. Zach Attach first 3 pitches, The Fat One, Switchback Falls. 6. Caleb Sunde (Portland) & Casey Ambrose (Bozeman) – 2,718 points with no time penalty. 7 pitches. Fat One, Lower Greensleeves, Hang Over, Cleopatra’s Needle, Ice Breaker, Solstice 1. 7. Colter Anderson & Mike Kellch (Bozeman) – 2,508 points with no time penalty. 6 pitches. Elevator Shaft, Fat One, Scrappy One, Mummy 1, Solstice 1, Equinox. [i/]Winners of two signed copies (by all Invite Athletes) of Winter Dance for the “Best Costume Award.” 8. Ashley Williams & Ashley Lehman (Missoula) – 2,433 points with no time penalty. 7 pitches. Hang Over, Switchback Falls, Over Easy, The Western, Silken Falls, a new WI 4 route near The Western. Women’s Winners each taking home a new Mammut Rope and automatic invite to the 2009 Invitational, plus Ambler hats as a “New Route Award.” 9. Mark Berreth & Eric Lower (Bozeman) – 2,415 points with no time penalty. 8 pitches. Lower Greensleeves, Mummy Cooler 1, Over Easy, The Western, Avalanche Gulch Bottom, Silken Falls. 10. Rich Searle (Bozeman) & Rhys Dubin (Los Angeles) – 2,365 points with no time penalty. 5 pitches. Lower Greensleeves, Mummy Cooler 1, Twin Falls Left, Twin Falls Right, Ice Breaker. Rhys, age 16, was given a signed Bozeman Ice Festival Poster as the “Youngest Participant.” 11. Seth Timpano & Mark Anderson (Bozeman) – 1,957 points with no time penalty. 7 pitches. Sleeping Giant, Mummy Cooler 1, Switchback Falls, Crypt Orchid, Cave n Gully, Feeding the Cat, Over Easy. 12. Jason Baker & Rich Bennett (Hayden Lake, Idaho) – 651 points with no time penalty. 4 pitches. The Fat One, Scrappy One, Switchback Falls, The Western. 13. Pat Odenbeck (Belgrade) & Kevin Brumbach (Bozeman) – 2,833 points with no time penalty but only climbed in two areas. 5 pitches. Elevator Shaft, Good Looking One, Magically Delish, Crypt Orchid, Cave n Gully.

Things have been warm here. A few things are up in Hyalite but it's thin, wet and iffy. However the high altitude routes "Ice Dragons" and "Funeral for a Friend" are both in good nick-an awesome Beartooth double header. Time is now before it snows again. No snowshoes needed for either. Go to http://www.montanaice.com/forum/18 for a recent report on Ice Dragons and also photos of Funeral for a Friend. It's also in Winter Dance. Onward.

I just posted a complete beta update for the route "Ice Dragons" (1,200 feet, WI3+) in the East Rosebud Canyon. It's about 3x longer than the routes on the Sphinx and in great shape right now. You can download the free PDF from the "More Beta" page at http://www.firstascentpress.com. Good luck and have fun. Onward,

Twin Falls and Palace Butte Falls are getting climbed now. Rumor has it the Gash on Mount Black in Paradise Valley is good (Mt. Black is the sleeper alpine gem of the Northern Rockies. Kris Erickson and Jim Earl did a 10 pitch mixed line on the south face about this time last year), Ice Dragons in the Beartooths is most certainly in. No word on the Sphinx yet. Bottom line, game is just about on here in Montana and we'd love to see you all out here for the Bozeman Ice Festival. Don't forget about the already legendary Hyalite Ice Breaker on Saturday the 6th. It's not so much a competition as it is a climbing event. You can read more about it at http://www.firstascentpress.com/icebreaker.html

Ability or inability to compete or understand exchange rates is only a part of the story. My guess is that the Europeans just didn't care enough about the North American market to make any concessions or share increasing costs to help the men in SLC stay in business. IMHO.

From Steve Porcella, Hi Everyone, it’s sad, but true. County has voted to begin mining at Lost Horse immediately. Little to no numbers, cost comparisons, scope, impacts, or boundaries have been described. Bottom line is that the County Commissioners (Carlotta Grandstaff-chairman) don’t care about recreation, climbers, the recreational value of the canyon and nor does the FS. Their goal is purely resource extraction for financial gain, with 8-10 other projects (no detail, no scope) also proposed. Write to Dave Bull and the other folks below, send your letters to the Ravalli Republic and Bitterroot Star. Dave has given us an ear in the past. Impress upon him the high recreational value of this site. Our only hope is that he will take that into consideration and limit the impact of mining at the site. Use the email addresses below if easiest for you. Tell the respective people that Lost Horse Canyon is a valuable recreational site that you use. Further industrialization and therefore degradation of the canyon, in the form of active rip/rap and road rock mining for financial gain is counter-productive to the high recreational value of that canyon. Be clear that you are against further mining in the canyon, that other sources of rock are available that do not conflict with high use, high value recreation. Demand that the County and Forest Service recognize your recreational use of the canyon. We are not against resource extraction, but we are against it when it conflicts with a high use, high value area. See the latest news story below for more information. Thank you for your effort and support “Ya gotta freakin fight for everything!” BCC WRITE LETTERS! Dave Bull, Forest Supervisor, Bitterroot National Forest 1801 North 1st Street Hamilton, MT 59840 59840 dbull@fs.fed.us . Ravalli County Commissioner C/o Glenda Wiles, Administrative Assistant Ravalli County Commissioners Office 215 S. 4th Street, Suite A Hamilton, MT 59840 commissioners@ravallicounty.mt.gov Senator Max Baucus Missoula Field Office 1821 South Avenue West, Suite 203 Missoula, MT 59801 (406) 329-3123 www.baucus.senate.gov Senator Jon Tester Missoula Field Office 116 West Front Street Missoula, MT 59802 (406) 728-3003 www.tester.senate.gov Congressman Denny Rehberg Kelly McQuiston, Field Representative 301 East Broadway, Suite 2 Missoula, MT 59802 (406) 543-9550 www.house.gov/rehberg THE MISSOULIAN oped@missoulian.com Letters to the Editor PO Box 8029 Missoula, MT 59807 www.missoulian.com The Bitterroot Star newspaper thestar@montana.com Ravalli Republic Newspaper editor@ravallirepublic.com