Beacon

[denalidave]

Great to see Jim, Kenny and Adam in the parking lot last night. Our paths crossed as they were leaving for the day and Arent and I were racking up to headlamp it up the corner.....I love Beacon. We went car to car in 2 hours by head lamp, included a short stay at the LoLP.

2 hours, I got 2 laps and a run up the trail in less time than that yesterday (including the obligatory ledge beer rest stops). Must have just missed you guys. Keep training and maybe you can go for the longest known time on the corner, I think it's around 13 hours...

[kevbone]

Dave....Jim said you had just left. Sorry we missed you.

 

Soloing is obviously alot faster than climbing with a rope. And you were most likely not climbing in the dark. Just saying.....

 

2 hours car to car with a stop at the ledge in the dark is a good time. I was trying to revel in the time considering how often I make it to Beacon.

[kevbone]

Now....when is JH or Bill going to comment on their unnecessary bolts?

 

That’s what I thought.

 

[denalidave]

Dave....Jim said you had just left. Sorry we missed you.

 

Soloing is obviously alot faster than climbing with a rope. And you were most likely not climbing in the dark. Just saying.....

 

2 hours car to car with a stop at the ledge in the dark is a good time. I was trying to revel in the time considering how often I make it to Beacon.

I'm just flicking shit at you boner... LCK and I got first dibs on the night run on opening night, June 13th. I think it took us about 3 hours but we loitered at all the appropriate spots to soak in the view.

[kevbone]

Now....when is JH or Bill going to comment on their unnecessary bolts?

 

That’s what I thought.

 

I wish I would have taken a camera with me. Then I could do what some folks did at the Drop Zone. Take pictures of an anchor near a crack and then post it for all to see.

[billcoe]

Keep training and maybe you can go for the longest known time on the corner, I think it's around 13 hours...

Nobody is taking Plaidmans record. I'm thinking of inviting my son and going up with Jimmy, and we can give it a shot though.

[stevetimetravlr]

Plaidman has gotten faster lately. the guy was firing up some 5.10s at Klinger in short order a few weeks back.

 

[JosephH]

Now....when is JH or Bill going to comment on their unnecessary bolts?

I'll let Bill speak for himself on how comfortable he'd have been doing the work we did with both of us yarding around for half a day from a couple of cams. Lot of big talk from a guy that wasn't there doing what Bill and I were doing. But then talk has always been your particular specialty.

 

Unnecessary anchors? Yeah, I'm real guilty of that. If it were up to me most of the bolts and anchors on Beacon would disappear. I can only imagine the rage you must have expressed about the bolts when YW was being put up.

[kevbone]

I'll let Bill speak for himself on how comfortable he'd have been doing the work we did with both of us yarding around for half a day from a couple of cams.

 

So you dont trust cams now? How about 4 or 5 cams? Not just a couple......and yes...totally unnecessary bolts. I am pointing out your hypocrisy in all its glory. You slam bolts at all cost. Then turn around and place a “maintenance anchor” because you are afraid of a natural anchor in totally bomber rock. JH, you are a hard core hypocrite.

 

 

[JosephH]

No, I'm just really good at removing bolts and expoxing over the holes, so I don't have a problem putting in a temp work anchor in a fresh 60' rockfall scar where no one is going to see the epoxied over holes unless they do LW. All in all a lot of bold talk from a guy who didn't do the work and pleads for yet another unnecessary bolt on YW.

[ivan]

i'd be more nervous having a big load on cams in big loose blocks like on the corner ridge there fo'shizzle, 'specially when the mess you're cleaning up was the result of said blocks spontaneously trundling off

 

 

[rob]

yikes. I think when you die, if you've been bad, they make you come back as an oregonian climber.

[kevbone]

pleads for yet another unnecessary bolt on YW.

 

Huh? I think most of the bolts are unnecessary and where it really needs one there is not one.

[kevbone]

i'd be more nervous having a big load on cams in big loose blocks like on the corner ridge there fo'shizzle, 'specially when the mess you're cleaning up was the result of said blocks spontaneously trundling off

 

 

I would be too. Thank god where he put the bolts there is super bomber rock.

[ivan]

why not a rhode island climber? least in or you can be legally too high to notice the babble

[billcoe]

i'd be more nervous having a big load on cams in big loose blocks like on the corner ridge there fo'shizzle, 'specially when the mess you're cleaning up was the result of said blocks spontaneously trundling off

 

We could have rigged it without the bolts. But that wasn't how it got done. Period. End of story. Yesterdays news. Driving while looking in your rear-view mirror. Crying over spilt milk.

 

My cousin, "Fast Freddy" use to work mine rescues for many years. (Typically Coal) He was on the "A" team, which responded to all the mine disasters and they would be the first ones in. If they were occupied there was a "B" team what went instead, otherwise, they'd be packing one day for West Virgina and another for Utah. He said something to me that stuck to me. He said that going in to save these stuck or dead guys was close to suicide. See, the best laid plans, technology and care to be safe had radically and unexpectedly failed when the collapse or explosion had occurred, and that now no one in the world short of God really knew what the geology and situation truly was. Certainly whatever caused the collapse or explosion the first time would certainly still be present: in spades, until the shaft got looked at by engineering teams, reworked and re-supported. It was basically luck and pluck that pulled you through it, and you needed to Fast yes, but extra extra cautious. Freddy got his name from leading his team into one of these hell holes, and when some creaking was followed by some crashing, he was also (although it was not known how this occurred in the darkness and the dust)the first one out and greeted each team member as they hit the exit. Somehow in the dark he had crawled right pass full line of dudes whom were also scrambling to the exit as fast as they could without being seen by a single one of them. Then he became "Fast Freddy".

 

Although is it only slight similarity, whatever caused such a massive chuck of rock to fall off the face there, exposed some underlying weakness. For you to say a cam is bomber, or not, is a supposition you make, or choose not too, from the safety and warmth of your computer.

 

It is what is is. I generally am very displeased with any additional bolts at Beacon. Let me toss out one more thing for consideration. It pisses me off to see these bolted convenience rap lines get put in everywhere. I don't run around yelling about them or chopping. However: I feel it removes some of the risk and skill needed, and lowers the challenge for us all. We can be better than that. Beacon and Royal Arches both come to mind. Yet on the other side of the coin, imagine if you are on the Skamania County SAR and get called out to lower off some gumbies who cratered 1/2 way up on YW. Having some of these out of the way bolts up there mapped out for them might be of some small or great value. These JH bolts are not in anyone's way, and I was surprised Ivan even saw them. He's as adventurous as a chipmunk I suppose. If they are visible from the YW route, I'd vote to get rid of them ASAP....are they? Can you guys speak to that?

 

As far as the outrage Kev, feel free to yank them, think of it as your contribution to a better world. Go. Do it. More action Jackson. We can get up there with a static line and a tree for an anchor next time, est ist mox nichts to me. It's all good bros!

[John Frieh]

yikes. I think when you die, if you've been bad, they make you come back as an oregonian climber.

 

You mean like Steve House?

 

The Beacon thread/forum is an unintentional public service announcement. Anyone reading it should immediately recognize the effects of long term recreational drug use and act accordingly

[billcoe]

yikes. I think when you die, if you've been bad, they make you come back as an oregonian climber.

Hah hah! Yes, hell would then be stuck inside, not climbing at all, in this circle jerk of a forum calling each other names?!!!

_________________________________________________________________

 

The Beacon thread/forum is an unintentional public service announcement. Anyone reading it should immediately recognize the effects of long term recreational drug use and act accordingly

Too funny!!!!

 

Was that you raising your kid to multitask and be an alpinist John?

[JosephH]

Two hours for the corner w/ a stop, pretty good. I had two and half to hump three ropes, gear, shovel, and drill rig up to the top of the high corner ramp, fix a line and rap down to the rockfall scar, survey the scene, fix an anchor, and and be back at the parking lot to meet everyone for the cleanup. I did what was expedient and safe for myself and another person who was kind enough to volunteer to work off of.

 

Again, it's a work anchor that I can remove and camo it in under 15 minutes so no one will ever know it was there. We weren't going up there to climb and it's not a climbing or ethics discussion, or can't you tell the difference? And why attempt to make it one?

[kevbone]

 

We could have rigged it without the bolts. But that wasn't how it got done. Period. End of story. Yesterdays news. Driving while looking in your rear-view mirror. Crying over spilt milk.

 

 

Nice. You are good at sweeping your screw up under the rug. For someone who talks the talk with Raindawg about only placing bolts where they is no alternative...you sure dont walk the walk. Just say.....

 

have a nice day.

 

K

[kevbone]

 

It's not an climbing or ethics discussion, or can't you tell the difference?

 

You added unnecessary bolts to "our" sacred Beacon rock. Dont tell me it is not an ethical discussion. Especially from someone like you who spouts off about how bad bolts are.

[alexbaker]

Since were on the topic...

 

I have heard that in order to place bolts at beacon we have to file for a permit or something? Could someone tell me, perhaps without too much bitching/agenda what the process would be for me to legally place a bolt @ beacon?

 

Thanks

 

Alex

 

p.s. email is fine bakerjohnalex... gmail

[crimper]

wth my permission, joe re-located one of my anchors at the drop zone and it took me whole minutes to find the two patches he stuck over the old boltholes. i literally couldn't see them from 3 feet away and finally settled on two dots i assumed must be the patches.

 

and kev, you know i love you, but joseph is actually contributing something to rock climbing. meanwhile, you are just a terrier dog yapping at his heels. so what does that make me...to be taking the time to say...this...

 

 

[kevbone]

you are just a terrier dog yapping at his heels. so what does that make me...to be taking the time to say...this...

 

 

Lapdog? :[]

[kevbone]

 

I have heard that in order to place bolts at beacon we have to file for a permit or something? Could someone tell me, perhaps without too much bitching/agenda what the process would be for me to legally place a bolt @ beacon?

 

 

 

Great question. JH....did you get permission to place this anchor?