kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 If you had to choose your favorite climb at Beacon, what would it be? Young Warriors. Quote
pink Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 soloing little wing over and over and over and over and over and over..... Quote
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 screw soloing little wing. Theres that one insecure move. Quote
Plaidman Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere. Plaidman Quote
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 Its the move that you get as you step into the corner..... Quote
pink Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 the complete stephenwulf? how many times have u done that route ivan? Quote
ivan Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 i've only done the upper pitches twice now, the lower a half dozen i reckon? maybe it's my favorite guess it alwasy scares the piss out of me? the upper pitches have the most intense exposure to be had out at the rock Quote
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 the complete stephenwulf? how many times have u done that route ivan? done as in aided? or a free or free attempt? Quote
Plaidman Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 Its the move that you get as you step into the corner..... That's the one Quote
Plaidman Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 Went out yesterday and solo aided Windsurfer. It took way too long. finished it in the dark. Placed over 30 pieces. No rain. Plaidman Quote
pink Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 i've only done the upper pitches twice now, the lower a half dozen i reckon? maybe it's my favorite guess it alwasy scares the piss out of me? the upper pitches have the most intense exposure to be had out at the rock the exit moves on the first pitch are sweet. never been that god of a free climber to bust out the second one Alan Lester styler... Quote
ivan Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 i've only done the upper pitches twice now, the lower a half dozen i reckon? maybe it's my favorite guess it alwasy scares the piss out of me? the upper pitches have the most intense exposure to be had out at the rock the exit moves on the first pitch are sweet. never been that god of a free climber to bust out the second one Alan Lester styler... christ, the exit is fucking impossible - i've always had to use a runner as a stirrup to get through it - i'm happy when i only have to french half the route kev Quote
crimper Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 free for all is the best sustained 5-8/5-9 crack climbing within 100 miles of portland. (once you're past the short sharp 10minus corner right off the ground) back in june i did the 4 pitch "the line" at lover's leap, supposedly one of the best 5-9s anywhere, and while it was stellar, i found free for all even better a few weeks later... Quote
billcoe Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 The Leap is fantastic. Love that place. I think Corrugation Corner is better than the Line, better even than Travelers Buttress which is a 50 classics of North America selection, and is perhaps one of the better 5.7's on the planet. Better than anything around here including Beacon and Smith IMO. Quote
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 Better than anything around here including Beacon and Smith IMO. Quote
eldiente Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) back in june i did the 4 pitch "the line" at lover's leap, supposedly one of the best 5-9s anywhere, and while it was stellar, i found free for all even better a few weeks later... What? I hope your joking. Are we talking about the same Leap and the same Beacon Rock? The Leap makes Beacon Rock look like a teetering choss heap (which it is) But since were talking about it, let's put my vote on Free for Some linked into Dodd's, lot of bang for the buck. Edited October 26, 2009 by eldiente Quote
justinp Posted October 27, 2009 Posted October 27, 2009 But since were talking about it, let's put my vote on Free for Some linked into Dodd's, lot of bang for the buck. u mean aided by fewer linked to Dodd's Quote
JosephH Posted October 27, 2009 Posted October 27, 2009 If I'm doing the driving, then the best climb at Index is at Squamish. For favorite I'd probably go with FFA > Dods > Dastardly to the trail. It's what I take folks up who want a representative slice of Beacon. If they can't do 5.10 then I'll take them up YW or the Corner instead. Quote
ivan Posted October 27, 2009 Posted October 27, 2009 The best climb at Beacon is at Index. if all these scientist pricks would quit fucking their lab-assistants and finally invent a teleporter i'd do a hell of a lot more climbing at index (especially if it could dump me off right at the base of the upper wall ) Quote
backclipped Posted October 27, 2009 Posted October 27, 2009 I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere. Plaidman The hardest 5.8 anywhere? Riiiight. Let me guess, the opening moves on Nine Gallon makes it the hardest 5.9 anywhere, right? A grade is a grade is a grade.... Quote
billcoe Posted October 27, 2009 Posted October 27, 2009 I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere. Plaidman The hardest 5.8 anywhere? Riiiight. Let me guess, the opening moves on Nine Gallon makes it the hardest 5.9 anywhere, right? A grade is a grade is a grade.... Nope, I know where the hardest 5.5 in the state is....but I'm not sayin'..... Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.