olyclimber Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 thats not really the question. the place for personal vendettas is not the climbers board. Photo from the gallery (will strickland) Quote
Plaidman Posted October 5, 2009 Author Posted October 5, 2009 (edited) Just got the old school wide list from the desk of Ed Hartouni. Boy am I going to be busy. Plaidman Edited October 5, 2009 by Plaidman Quote
olyclimber Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 thats a sadistic looking list! be sure to take a lot of pictures to share! Quote
Plaidman Posted October 5, 2009 Author Posted October 5, 2009 Many pictures and some really crappy video. The video will be edited for content. Mostly ...struggle struggle OW Damn it #@%@#%$%. And some more ... struggle struggle OW Damn it #@%@#%$%. Son of a @#@$#%%. Plaidman Quote
olyclimber Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/climbing-misc/yosemiteoffwidths/YosemiteOffwidths.html Quote
willstrickland Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 I don't know what difficulty you want, but Jam Session (.10b) and Cream (.11a) are two of the finest wide cracks in the valley, and are only about 30' apart. Both splitter cracks on really good rock, kind of a PITA approach, but worth it. Energy Crisis (.11+, basically a full pitch of rings and finger stacks)is also right there and is a SUPER pitch in a pumpy enduro fashion. Those three pitches rival anything of similar style, and if the approach was more straightforward they'd get tons of traffic. Jam Session gradually widens all the way up, Cream is a little steeper and has some classic true Offwidth size (i.e. too big for fist, too small for knee). Crux is fairly low, widens further up and gets easier but may feel a tad run up there. Mental Block and/or Power Point are good for multi-pitch too. (You can always rap PP after the wide if you're not down for the 11+ face crux up top). Another you might try if you're in the Reeds Pinnacle area is Copper Penny 10a 6" behind a flake, on the Five and Dime wall right below Reeds. (Five and Dime is also fantastic at 10+ with a rings crux and some pumpy wide hands up top, a classic for sure). Quote
Pete_H Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Have you done the third pitch of Reed's Direct? I don't remember much except that is was hard and akward and difficult to protect. Quote
ivan Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 have you done the 2nd pitch of wrong gull at beacon, esse? it's supposed to be valley 10c and it's turned out to be the only beacon route i've tried so far that i could even CHEAT my way up (that said, if you get desperate like i did after 2 30 footers, you can find a way to bail out into a thin crack halfway up that gets you to the belay below the 2 pins on right gull. Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 What happened was I got sick of Pink's insistence on poking at John F on every opportunity. Sorry - I didn't catch this, thought you were just f*king with Andrew. (I guess you were too LOL) John F is a great guy, solid climber but just a solid person too, anyone who knows him or gets out with him knows this. While we wait: here's some Vally stokage to get Scott warmed up. Oh, Will: on the 5.11 wyde stuff, Scott has to walk before he can run! Andrew Trzynka on Sacherer Cracker. Tape your ankles or were the old school socks/hightops combo for this one. Steve_Lyford and Stan_Miller up on Butterballs on the Cookie. Visting with Werner and Merry Braun. Stan Miller on Lower Cathedral Andrew on same with the awesome local Dave Hardin below taking a rest. In case we need any hook or beak pictures, fortunately the price tags were removed and all those Toucans have been used now. Easy local wide: FA of Dulcina Couple of FA of Bride of Wyde, local wide. Fish copied the forum post and made it a trip report PDF on Wide Fetish. Good site if you are so sick as to indulge in that wide stuff. You should run out and do Bride of Wyde as a warm up, In sequence, your pro is #4,5 6 and then an optional #4 Bro. Here's Werner's pic of a young John Bachar on Cream: Check out the swami and the pro, one more reason not to fall. Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Another Werner pic, as a young dude on Death Crack. Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Last Sunday, didn't go climbing: too tired. However, did go try and spot a potential new cliff, and our little dog Sadie met a new buddy and got to share the new friends toy. ...for a while. Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Merry following Werner on Sacherer Cracker. here's a good one of the Upper part of Sacherer. Werner just getting to the business part. Good one for your Scott as its nice that you get real good pro before you get high up there and get your ass and forearms kicked on the wide part. Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Werner's socks went up the route under his rock shoes for protection. Me later on Knob Job: It had been years since I'd done this route, probably had EBs on the last time, and I remember it going up and right and as real stiff. So my buddies are all like "No, it's only 10b dude". When I got to the top and started up and right, they're like: "whoh dude, where are you going?" "That's something else, some runout 10d, go left and up and it's a 5.8 finish"....Ahhhhhhh haaa - love guidebooks and alert buddies. I don't see any pics of Moby Dick right, thats a good one too right there Scott. Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Something we used with good effect was to take a picture of the topo in the book, and if you needed to look at it at the belay stance, just turn on the camera in view mode and zoom as needed. Then delete it off your camera later. Quote
Pete_H Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Really? Those aren't even pictures of wide cracks. They're pictures of your dog and some old dude's socks. Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 I have more pictures of socks if you need Pete.. LOL! Share your pics of the valley. Must have been too gripped to take pics of Moby dick. Quote
Plaidman Posted October 5, 2009 Author Posted October 5, 2009 Thanks Bill. My list is killing me already. Great pics. Are those all your hooks. OMG. Plaidman Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Some of them. I'm missing a #4 Vermin Hook, think I took it out to Beacon and it was reshuffled in one of those ledge scenes on it takes a village of 12 climbers to watch Ivan. Ivan, that was your lead off the ledge: do you have an extra large hook? If so, it's yours to keep since you (obviously) need it more than me, I just want to know. It's the 2nd from the large size. Verm quit, so these great hooks are impossible to obtain now. Quote
pink Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 (edited) . Edited October 5, 2009 by Jake Porter Quote
ivan Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 bill, i don't have yer vermin hook, though i would like one - dunno what happened w/ it, nor do i remember even carrying it - can i blame larry? pink - uh - what? i musta missed something on page 1? Quote
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Yosemite off-widths is the topic. Well, Scotts into hooks and besides isn't hooks wat some use when da offwidth is too hard? ..... just sayin'.... ps Pete H, Sacherer is thin, then hands then a offwidth then squeeze. The OW part didn't come out very clear. Same with Bride of Wyde, thin then hands, fists, OW then squeeze. Unless you're fat. Then ya lieback it some, maybe get a chickenwing in. pic of me liebacking some on it: 9" Valley Giant. I don't loan those out. Quote
RuMR Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 actually, sacher cracker starts with some weird ass 5.7 offwidthy shit...hahahaha Quote
billcoe Posted October 6, 2009 Posted October 6, 2009 Anyone have any wide pics for Plaidman of 5.7-5.10 valley stuff? Quote
Sol Posted October 6, 2009 Posted October 6, 2009 Tyree on The Ear, P18 of the Salathe Wall, perhaps the hardest 5.7+ in the valley: Myself, getting fully throttled in the Harding Slot on Astroman: Quote
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