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overheard at nevermind x38


richard_noggin

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While belaying at nevermind at exit 38 I overheard two climbers talk’n, one said to the other I think all these climbs are my friend’s Garth Bruce :rolleyes:

I guess now I know why Garth leaves out FA information in his guides books :tdown:

He has a few mank climbs in the area and none at nevermind, leavening out FA info is just mank and BTW all the climbs on the black slab we did rock left are not 5.9 dumb fuck, why change the old rateings? does he not climb the routes :anger:

Pretty lame when BB and LW among others did most of the development in the area and BB helped with the access and had the first guide, than he gets shanked out of notoriety and a guide book,WTF everone else puts in FA information :wazup:

 

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While belaying at nevermind at exit 38 I overheard two climbers talk’n, one said to the other I think all these climbs are my friend’s Garth Bruce :rolleyes:

I guess now I know why Garth leaves out FA information in his guides books :tdown:

He has a few mank climbs in the area and none at nevermind, leavening out FA info is just mank and BTW all the climbs on the black slab we did rock left are not 5.9 dumb fuck, why change the old rateings? does he not climb the routes :anger:

Pretty lame when BB and LW among others did most of the development in the area and BB helped with the access and had the first guide, than he gets shanked out of notoriety and a guide book,WTF everone else puts in FA information :wazup:

 

name Initial dropper

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I believe Mr Noggin is ranting against the practice of leaving FA information out of guidebooks. This was a fashion developed awhile back to supposedly take the ego out of the first ascent game because you wouldn't get any fame out of it.

 

Personally, I find FA information useful because it tells you things about what to expect: protection spacing, quality of cleaning, character of the line; all these things are affected by an individual's approach to climbing. Some folks routes, you know you've got to be feeling dialed in, others, you know you could skip the route and not miss much.

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I've heard a lot of behind the scenes drama about north bend guides of past, present, and future. I've certainly heard through the grapevine about some bad blood over some of the guides and future guides to be done. (All my info is third hand though).

What makes the whole thing so interesing is that the north bend guides are the cash cows of the guidebooks in Washington.

 

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