YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 It was my first (and failed) aided attempt on the 6-7th June 2009 to climb Pioneer route on Monkey Face. It did not go as planned and we had to retreat and leave 17 assorted quickdraws behind on the bolted ladder above the Bond Street Ledge (Pioneer route/Monkey Face/Smith). I know a few people later mentioned that someone was so generous to pre-rig the entire pitch with the quickdraws. Well it had happened by accident. If somebody has already cleaned them or intend on climbing the Pioneer route in the future, please PM or e-mail at mitochondria100@gmail.com Thanks Quote
thelawgoddess Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 Nobody got hurt, right? 'Cause ... Quote
YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Author Posted September 2, 2009 Right! But we had to be creative with rapping down off the Monkey Face mouth to the Bond Street Ledge (trying to clean up the quickdraws on a way but no success though). Second double rope rap to the base of the route was straightforward. Quote
Bishopp66 Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 If it was me, I'd figure out what I was doing wrong (or enlist a strong partner), then go get them back myself... just sayin'. That's a lot of gear. Are they still there?? Quote
YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Author Posted September 2, 2009 If it was me, I'd figure out what I was doing wrong (or enlist a strong partner), then go get them back myself... just sayin'. That's a lot of gear. Are they still there?? Thanks for the advice. I might as well do that. Yes, they were up there in July. Who knows about now. Quote
eldiente Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 If you don't mind me asking, why did you have to leave all of the draws behind? As an expert bailer myself, I normally would leave behind a single junk binner and clean the rest on the way down. That's a huge kit to leave hanging up there! Good luck! Quote
ivan Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 If it was me, I'd figure out what I was doing wrong (or enlist a strong partner), then go get them back myself... just sayin'. That's a lot of gear. Are they still there?? Thanks for the advice. I might as well do that. Yes, they were up there in July. Who knows about now. i seriously doubt the ones you saw in july were yours or that you'll ever see them again - folks have epic meltdowns on that route routinely (i've been there at least 3 times and seen the evidence), and the left gear is rightfully considered booty (though i've been yet to be fast/lucky enough to claim it!) - i'd look on it as the price of your education Quote
RuMR Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 Nobody got hurt, right? 'Cause ... where the fuck do you find those gremlins!!!! Quote
RuMR Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 there...fixed the title thread to the appropriate title... oh, AND WEAR YOUR HELMET! Quote
YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Author Posted September 2, 2009 If you don't mind me asking, why did you have to leave all of the draws behind? As an expert bailer myself, I normally would leave behind a single junk binner and clean the rest on the way down. That's a huge kit to leave hanging up there! Good luck! I did not have a fifi or ascenders so I could not get up the line with just a pair of etriers. The partner was not able to clean them either on the rapping down off the Monkeys mouth. Quote
geoff Posted September 2, 2009 Posted September 2, 2009 If you go back, with new gear, just re-aid the line on belay. Step one, reach up and remove draw. Step two, clip aiders to bolt. Step three, stand up in aiders. Repeat 15 or so times. If no fi fi, just use a draw. Quote
YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Author Posted September 2, 2009 If you go back, with new gear, just re-aid the line on belay. Step one, reach up and remove draw. Step two, clip aiders to bolt. Step three, stand up in aiders. Repeat 15 or so times. If no fi fi, just use a draw. Nice, thanks geoff! Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 If you go back, with new gear, just re-aid the line on belay. Step one, reach up and remove draw. Step two, clip aiders to bolt. Step three, stand up in aiders. Repeat 15 or so times. If no fi fi, just use a draw. Nice, thanks geoff! you should have a pair of personal prusiks on you too - if the leader falls and is need of help, how will you escape the belay? these prusiks can also be used to climb the rope. Quote
RuMR Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 climbing 101... the other option is grabbed the g0#)$#@)$*damne#)@$d rope and pull up on it, have buddy take in slack, repeat... jeezus... my guess is those were prolly brand spankin' new draws bought from REI'mGONNA HAVE AN ADVENTURE, right? I'd treat this as a lesson, and go read a book or talk to some folks... Quote
YocumRidge Posted September 3, 2009 Author Posted September 3, 2009 you should have a pair of personal prusiks on you too - if the leader falls and is need of help, how will you escape the belay? these prusiks can also be used to climb the rope. I was contemplating this Ivan but using prussiks in aiding to climb up the rope is like grabbing the gear on regular routes, do not you think? Quote
YocumRidge Posted September 3, 2009 Author Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) climbing 101... the other option is grabbed the g0#)$#@)$*damne#)@$d rope and pull up on it, have buddy take in slack, repeat... jeezus... my guess is those were prolly brand spankin' new draws bought from REI'mGONNA HAVE AN ADVENTURE, right? I'd treat this as a lesson, and go read a book or talk to some folks... No, they were not new - mostly my sports rack (BD and Petzl) plus a few alpine draws - purchased from the OMC if this matters. Edited September 3, 2009 by mitochondria100 Quote
dan_forester Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 you should have a pair of personal prusiks on you too - if the leader falls and is need of help, how will you escape the belay? these prusiks can also be used to climb the rope. I was contemplating this Ivan but using prussiks in aiding to climb up the rope is like grabbing the gear on regular routes, do not you think? What, like using prussiks while aiding is "bad style"? When you're aiding you get to dispense with such quaint notions of style. I always have prussiks on my harness but they're basically for emergency type situations only. Try prussiking up a 30m pitch sometime for practice to see how awesome it is - a couple of ascenders will seem reasonably priced after that experience. That said - ascenders are just a hassle on the pioneer route bolt ladder. It's easiest and fastest for the leader & follower to both aid the pitch. Without a fifi it would be a pain but not impossible. A friend of mine did it w/ just a carabiner on his belay loop and it took him like 1 1/2 hours (!) - another good learning experience. The benefit of the fifi, of course, is that when you unweight it, it will come right off - whereas with a biner, you've got to fiddle with getting the gate open, etc. It's too bad more people don't do a little aid practice before trying the pioneer route. The bolt ladder is trivial if you know what you're doing. I'd recommend that anyone who wants to climb that route go out & practice aiding on gear (on top rope even) one time, just to get the basic sequence down. That bolt ladder can be a frustrating place to do your first aid pitch. Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 what dan said - aid is aid is aid and everyone aids the bolt ladder the best sequence is yard on draw, rest on fifi, repeat - at the top it gets overhanging enough you need a stirrup to get some traction to yard on the draws, so just extend a sling Quote
Buckaroo Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 ""you should have a pair of personal prusiks on you too - if the leader falls and is need of help, how will you escape the belay? these prusiks can also be used to climb the rope."" I was contemplating this Ivan but using prussiks in aiding to climb up the rope is like grabbing the gear on regular routes, do not you think? I don't think you've contemplated escaping a belay. You need two prusiks on your harness at all times. And when you're going to lose 17 draws do you keep going with some kind of misplaced ethics or do you grab the gear and get on with it? Quote
billcoe Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 I was contemplating this Ivan but using prussiks in aiding to climb up the rope is like grabbing the gear on regular routes, do not you think? Someone asking Ivan about correct aiding ethics and grabbing gear on regular routes.....it stopped me dead in my tracks in wonderment and I had to slow down and re-read it. This is highly and spectacularly irregular..... [font:Courier New](he says while sitting back in the easy chair and grabbing some popcorn)[/font] Quote
RuMR Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 ""you should have a pair of personal prusiks on you too - if the leader falls and is need of help, how will you escape the belay? these prusiks can also be used to climb the rope."" I was contemplating this Ivan but using prussiks in aiding to climb up the rope is like grabbing the gear on regular routes, do not you think? I don't think you've contemplated escaping a belay. You need two prusiks on your harness at all times. And when you're going to lose 17 draws do you keep going with some kind of misplaced ethics or do you grab the gear and get on with it? ethics on an aid route? now that's some funny stuff...the only ethic on aid is "don't use a hammer unless its absolutely necessary"... Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 I was contemplating this Ivan but using prussiks in aiding to climb up the rope is like grabbing the gear on regular routes, do not you think? Someone asking Ivan about correct aiding ethics and grabbing gear on regular routes.....it stopped me dead in my tracks in wonderment and I had to slow down and re-read it. This is highly and spectacularly irregular..... [font:Courier New](he says while sitting back in the easy chair and grabbing some popcorn)[/font] the "ivan do you...think" bit was more absurd (i think ) Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 hey rumr, how'd yer boy do on city park? (speaking of routes that would be good to learn aid on) Quote
dan_forester Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 I was contemplating this Ivan but using prussiks in aiding to climb up the rope is like grabbing the gear on regular routes, do not you think? Someone asking Ivan about correct aiding ethics and grabbing gear on regular routes.....it stopped me dead in my tracks in wonderment and I had to slow down and re-read it. This is highly and spectacularly irregular..... Ivan could easily teach a master class in pulling on gear aka "alpine trickery" as I think he likes to call it? I'm no slouch in the pulling on gear dept either - aid climbing ruined me forever. Quote
RuMR Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 hey rumr, how'd yer boy do on city park? (speaking of routes that would be good to learn aid on) he got cut on two fingers on different hands...bleeding, wasn't into it, so he french freed parts and climbed the rest... kinda cool for me though, as we went and did a bunch of other routes...he walked up iron horse and the vslot...he hadn't done the slot before, and thought that was cool... Quote
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