[TR] Gimli, South Ridge - Valhalla Range, BC

[Steph_Abegg]

Trip: Gimli, South Ridge - Valhalla Range, British Columbia

 

Date: 8/5/2009

 

Trip Report:

The Valhalla Range in BC is about 100km southwest of the better-known Bugaboos. Mount Gimli is one of the most dramatic and accessible of the spires. The South Ridge forms a spectacular arête that begs to be climbed. And even more pleasing, the south ridge is composed of perfect gneiss and can be climbed at a moderate 5.8 grade over 7 pitches (although the grade of this route was listed as 5.10a in the most recent guide, due to a crux move on an upper pitch.)

 

Clint and I had planned to spend a few nights in the Valhallas climbing a few of the classic routes. However, due to some threats of thundershowers, we decided to climb Gimli car-to-car. This was a stellar climb, and I defintely have plans to return to climb some of the other routes.

 

As usual, I have posted a full trip report and photos on my website:

http://sabegg.googlepages.com/gimli

 

Here are a few photos:

 

Photo overlay of South Ridge of Gimli:

 

Clint on the 10a crux move:

 

Map of the Valhalla Range at the south end of Valhalla Provincial Park in BC:

 

Again, here is the link to the full TR on my website:

http://sabegg.googlepages.com/gimli

Edited August 8, 2009 by Steph_Abegg

[marc_leclerc]

Nice! Looks super stellar!

[zoroastr]

The full TR is awesome as usual--thanx!

I think I could handle the "Descend East Ledges" part; the rest, I'm not so sure about. :0)

[Steph_Abegg]

I think I could handle the "Descend East Ledges" part; the rest, I'm not so sure about. :0)

 

How about the "East Ledges Ascent"....

[genepires]

Nice TR. That is one of my fave alpine rock routes ever. So sweet looking from the parking lot and on route. If it was 100 miles (or 60KM) closer to a city, it would be swamped daily.

 

Do you have any info of other routes in the area? Info is hard to come by but I would like to do more there also. I see you show other routes but I was wondering which are the better ones.

Edited August 9, 2009 by genepires

[Steph_Abegg]

Do you have any info of other routes in the area?

 

For an area with such good climbing, it's too bad there is not a more complete guide for the area. A new guidebook published in June 2009 (West Kootenay Rock Guide, by Aaron Kristiansen, Vince Hempsall) contains a 15-page section on the Valhallas, but only lists routes on Gimli and Nisleheim I believe. If I didn't have grad school....

 

I'm sure lots of the routes I listed on my website are great routes, and there is also a lot of potential for new routes up there. Here are the ones that seem to be the most popular long moderates:

• Gimli - Southeast Ridge 5.9+ **, 8p, aka South Ridge

• Gimli - NW Buttress Right Edge 5.8, III, aka Beckey Route

• Gimli - Lusting After Women 5.10c, 8p

• Gladsheim - Southwest Face 5.8, III, aka West Face, 8p

• Asgard - South Face Center 5.8 *, IV, 7p

 

I'd love to go back and climb any or all of these, this season perhaps. Anyone interested....?

[layton]

I climbed that on the fateful 9/11 - getting back across the border was the crux for sure

[davidk]

I'd love to go back and climb any or all of these, this season perhaps. Anyone interested....?

 

...check PMs

[sparverius]

for those interested, the new west kootenays guidebook calls that first pitch a 5.10a, noting that it's new rating is consistent with other 5.10a climbs in the region. Hard to believe that a pitch could jump from 5.7 to 5.10a, but it does seem closer to the latter. And the tricky move around the roof higher up is 5.9, although I thought it was harder than anything else on the route.

[John Frieh]

5.8 max

 

Great TR Steph! One of my favorite climbs

[ZONK]

One Great Climb ! Thanks for the new info and TR

Finding the "route" off did seem to be the Crux

 

[Steph_Abegg]

for those interested, the new west kootenays guidebook calls that first pitch a 5.10a, noting that it's new rating is consistent with other 5.10a climbs in the region. Hard to believe that a pitch could jump from 5.7 to 5.10a, but it does seem closer to the latter. And the tricky move around the roof higher up is 5.9, although I thought it was harder than anything else on the route.

 

I felt the first pitch is 5.8+, but sustained at this grade so it is a challenging start to the route for sure. The move around the roof higher up felt like 5.10a, but its just one move, so overall my personal rating for the route is 5.8+....

Edited August 15, 2009 by Steph_Abegg

[fern]

it was fun climbing with you and Clint.

[JanD]

nice pics. I would personally give the roof pitch a 5.8 and the first pitch a 5.9...

You can cut one or two pitches by running the rope out. There were many good belay spots for us.

 

it's a really great line and the features on the rock are awesome.

 

Cheers, Jan

Edited August 17, 2009 by JanD

[Steph_Abegg]

it was fun climbing with you and Clint.

Fern - it was fun to share the belays with 2 friendly climbers, too! Hope you managed to find good weather in the Bugs, or wherever you headed after the Valhallas...

 

-Steph

[Dane]

Awesome TR! Great route. But .10a?

 

 

[Steph_Abegg]

Awesome TR! Great route. But .10a?

 

 

Personally, I give it a 5.8+, but the recent West Kootnays guidebook bumps it from 5.7 (original rating) to 5.10a (one move wonder...).

[Dane]

I wasn't aiming that one at you Steph, not trying to get personal...I saw the guide book reference earlier. Just adding to the dog pile

 

Nice write up and pictures on your TR.

[Steph_Abegg]

Just adding to the dog pile

 

Perhaps the author of the guide book wanted to prevent lineups at the base....(watching people curse their way up the first pitch, where it helps to be 10a climber anyway)....

 

The dog pile gets bigger, =).

[brambo]

Great TR and info on the Valhallas! Thanks for sharing!!

The area is on my to-do-list now for sure.

Edited August 21, 2009 by brambo

[northvanclimber]

did the climb on thursday and i'd say the first pitch was a 5.9 that feels like a 10a. The crux moves come early in the pitch when you're still a little sleepy and haven't had a chance to really warm up. At least the new rating will give climbers a heads up that the first pitch will require some effort, which you might not be expecting from a 5.8...... at least it protects well!