brambo

Nice TR & pics. Two years ago the climbers left side of the ice tongue was pretty easy (max 55dg ice for 8-10m), this is exactly on the ridgeline TR here

Great TR and info on the Valhallas! Thanks for sharing!! The area is on my to-do-list now for sure.

Have a look at this ClubTread post for current (May 17th) images from Garibaldi Lake. Looks like there are some blue slush patches on the lake...

A question about the McParlon Main FSR (road usually used to get to Ash Pass/Pebble Creek hut/Thiassi)... Does anyone know if the rock slide at km6.8/7.0 is currently passable (location here )?? And I'm assuming the bridge at km10 is still out (location here), so it'll be still a ~2.5km hike to the road's end. Rest 4wd/2wd?? Last reports I found were from Sept. 04 where the rockslide was still passable And an earlier report from July 04 where the rockslide was not passable Also, Bivouac isn't really giving any recent info either... Thanks a lot! Bram

Trip: Mt. Baker - North Ridge up, Coleman-Deming ski down Date: 7/12/2008-7/13/2008 Trip Report: ThomasB and I climbed the North Ridge of Mt. Baker last weekend. A superb snow/ice climb! Walked/skinned up to Heliotrope ridge on Saturday (see approach notes below). Great views from the campsite on Heliotrope ridge. Woke up early on Sun (3am, after not wanting to wake up for half an hour). Left camp at 4am and started skiing down with headlamp. After a short ski down put on skins and started traversing through complex glacial terrain (read: lots of crevasses). Met up with two other groups here (all on foot). Had to pull out the rope to belay over one snowbridge. Kept the rope on for the remainder of the glacier traverse. Saw some people who bivouaced just west of the north ridge toe (I'm not sure if I would sleep very well here below the seracs of the NNW face). Opted for the left hand start of the ridge. An interesting, but not too technical bergschrund crossing at the start led us on the north ridge proper. Snow was already pretty soft on the slope(facing the sun), but not really a problem here. Did a couple of simul-climb ropelengths (used pickets/ice axe for belay) until the slope mellowed out, at which point we took off the rope and walked to the start of the ice tongue (crux). Snow was much firmer up high. Choose to go up high and close to the ice tongue, and then traverse over to the left on steepish (~45dg) sometimes dirty ice slopes just below some rotten rock and not too unstable looking seracs. Started belay when we were out of this somewhat sketchy zone. Good ice screws. Probably better to traverse on snow/glacier lower down and then go straight up to the leftmost part of the ice tongue (where it formes a ridge). From the leftmost part of the ice tongue Thomas fearlessly led the crux, but as it turned out, it wasn't nearly as steep as some reports mentioned. Perhaps a couple of meters of 55 degrees. After this we continued simulclimbing on very enjoyable, moderately angled ice!! Impressive views of seracs on our left. Continued simulclimbing for a while until slope mellowed out again. Used ice screws on the ice tongue, and pickets higher up on the slope. Walked up to the bergschrund that guards the summit. By this time we were pretty tired, and going was slow but steady. We had lost sight of the (three) groups behind us (they topped out of the right hand couloir when we were climbing the crux). Started using rope (simulclimbing w/ pickets) again below the upper bergschrund and finally topped out on the false summit plateau just before 1pm (total time just under 9hrs). Happy and ready to ski! But first a short jaunt to the true summit. The wind was pretty brutal (pretty much since we started on the crux of the route), so we didn't stay long. Skied down the Roman wall in pretty decent snow. At the pass between the Coleman and Deming glaciers we had to take off our skis for a bit, but after that we were good to go again. Crossed some small crevasses en route (perhaps 20cm wide), but as long as you don't turn right on top of them you should be fine ;-) Had to skin up to our camp, and after some relaxing and drinking lots of water we headed back down the way we came. Some more reasonable skiing and some more bushwhacking. Good times! I'll see if I can post some pictures soon. Gear Notes: Skis, skins, 2x25m twin ropes, 8 ice screws, 3 pickets, 2 ice tools (used all gear). We simulclimbed pretty much everything, so a bit longer rope would probably have been faster (30-35m), or a bit more gear would have done the trick too. Approach Notes: From Glacier Creek Road/Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead (3700ft) walk along the west side of Grouse Creek through mature forest. Head into slide path when forest starts to steepen (bushwhack). Skiable from approx. 4600ft. At 4700ft follow a snow filled gully to the SE and onto Heliotrope Ridge. Camp at ~7100ft.

I went up there this Sat (Jun 7th), and took the Brohm River to Brohm Crossover FSR (turn left after 1.5km on Cheekye FSR). Got stopped by snow at 7.4km (1000m el.). 4wd(hc) to there. We walked and skied from there. Saw some tire tracks from people that had driven up the Cheekye FSR to as far as the upper junction with the Brohm Crossover FSR, so presumably this branch goes as well.

NOAA Special Weather Statement: A FRONTAL SYSTEM WILL PRODUCE SIGNIFICANT PRECIPITATION IN THE MOUNTAINS TONIGHT AND FRIDAY...WITH ONE TO TWO FEET OF SNOW IN THE CASCADES AND OLYMPICS ABOVE 5500 FEET. THIS WILL RESULT IN A HAZARD FOR MOUNTAINEERING AND TRAVEL IN THE HIGH BACKCOUNTRY WITH POOR VISIBILITY...WINDY CONDITIONS...COLD TEMPERATURES...AND THE POSSIBILITY OF RENEWED AVALANCHE ACTIVITY.

Most recent trip report on turns-all-year forum. Not sure how the recent snow is going to change the conditions though. Keep an eye on the weather forecast!

picture from Coleman-Deming route on Sat. May 31st. Looks pretty good. Note that it is probably going to snow Thu-Fri.

Did the Spearhead last Saturday (Apr 26th). A lot of people on the traverse. Excellent conditions up high. Ski out Singing Pass was still okay. Whistler got some new snow over the last couple of days (http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/snowreport/index.htm), but this will probably settle pretty fast. Whistler Blackcomb is still writing avi forecasts, so check these regularly to get an idea for the conditions.

Cool, thx.

Thanks Hubris, very helpful information!! Would you happen to know if the Cloudworks IPP project is currently working on the Fire road (i.e. keeping the road clear of snow)?? Cheers, Bram

The roads in N. Sloquet Creek are indeed very overgrown. However, when looking at fairly recent air and satellite photos, the roads up Fire Creek and Glacier Lake/Snowcap Creek look much more recent and in pretty good shape: Google earth images, dated Sept. 2006 show pretty good looking roads next too Snowcap Lake: Overview image with Snowcap Lake, Fire Lake, etc: Zoomed in on road system just E of Snowcap Lake: The same area from iMapBC (Landsat 5 & 7 Mosaic Colour Band 543 Enhanced 1999-2004) shows up the recent (the roads do not show up in 1995 air photos) logging roads just S of Fire Lake. Has anyone driven, skied, hiked or seen these roads, and could comment on their actual conditions?? Thanks! Bram

With respect to access/exit to/from the Fire Spires group, it seems that the options are (from best-worst): 1. Ski out South to the ridge East of Mount Glendinning (ridge between North Sloquet and Sloquet Creek) and descent to the Sloquet Mainline using old cutblocks. 2. Ski out along an alpine ridge to the North to Fire Creek FSR (I'm assuming this would be a fairly easy ski down the reactivated logging road for most of the way). 3. Ski out along an alpine ridge to the North in the direction of Fire Creek FSR, but go to the Flame Pk-Fire Mnt pass (West of Fire lake) and ski down dense forest to the Glacier Lake/Snowcap Creek FSR. Recent satellite and air photos (google earth, imapbc) seem to show that the latter road is in not-too-bad condition. I guess this would be a bit of a gamble though. The advantage is that this would bring us back to the same starting point. 4. Ski out South to the North Sloquet FSR (heavily overgrown road, bushwack likely).

Thanks Hubris. Yes, calling wasn't too much of a help. Squamish Forest District didn't really know anything about the roads up there, and at Cloudworks (Vancouver office) they knew that they drove one side until km 38 crossed and drove to the end at km 77, but the person on the pone didn't know which side was which (i.e. East/West). The rather cryptic description from Cloudworks fits with following the In-SHUCK-ch to Tenas Narrows and the West side road though.

Thanks PaulB and G-spotter, I'll try calling the Squamish Forest District and Cloudworks... Hopefully they can tell me whether they are plowing the West Lillooet Rd between the Cloudworks IPP camp and Tenas Narrows...

Planning to do the Misty Icefield ski traverse this spring (around Easter if conditions are right, maybe later in spring). Plan to go from the West Lillooet Road up the Chief Paul Creek FSR (in between Tuwasus and Snowcap Creeks) to the Icemantle Glacier to Snowcap Lakes to Snowcap Icefield, Misty Icefield, Stave Glacier, Terrarossa Lake & Glacier (Fire Spires group) and exit by either: (1.) skiing out along an alpine ridge to the North to Fire Creek FSR, (2.) skiing out to the North and ski/bushwack all the way down to Glacier Lake/Snowcap Creek FSR (back to starting point), or (3.) skiing out South to the North Sloquet "FSR" (bushwack likely). Usually (see Baldwin guide) the traverse is done to the head of Pitt Lake, but this seems longer and doesn't bring you back to the same starting point along the West Lillooet FSR... I have a couple of questions: * What are the conditions of the West Lillooet FSR (plowed all the way/only partly plowed??), the latest Bivouac road bulletins aren't very clear to me... If it is only partly plowed, which part is usually kept open?? If it is not plowed, when is it generally driveable?? * Is the Cloudworks IPP project camp @ Tipella open in the winter (keeping the roads plowed?), are these guys working on the Fire Creek FSR?? If so, can you drive up this road or do they keep the road gated??? * Anyone skied or hiked to the Fire Spires group recently? If so, which approach would you recommend on ski's (North Sloquet Creek Rd or Fire Lake Rd)?? How much bushwacking is involved?? * Anyone have beta on the Glacier Lake/Snowcap Creek FSR? Is this road overgrown at all?? * Does anyone know whether this traverse has been done before as a horseshoe? Anyone who has hiked/skied the route from the Stave Glacier to Terrarossa Lake/Glacier, and can comment on how suited this part of the route is for skiing?? Lots of questions... Any comments and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks! Bram

Snowmobile access surrounding Phelix Creek (Brian Waddington Hut) - please consider writing a letter!!! The future of backcountry skiing at Phelix Creek is being decided. A group of snowmobilers from the D'arcy area are applying directly to the government to change the Phelix Creek basin's designation to allow motorized access. This would mean that the access road and the entire alpine area around the Brian Waddington hut, including the Lord of the Rings group, would have snowmobilers running all over it. The ILMB (Integrated Land Management Bureau) has sent in Kevin Kriese from Smithers as arbitrator in this case, and he is currently leaning towards the sledders' position. This change WILL happen unless we can convince him otherwise. What the community needs is an avalanche of letters to Kevin Kriese opposing the conversion and supporting the Sea to Sky Winter Backcountry Forum, which established the original non-motorized designation for the area. Please write (and print, and sign, and mail) a letter ASAP and tell everyone you know that has a stake in this issue to do the same. It is crucial to mention the incompatibility of backcountry skiing and snowmobiling, since the current argument runs that the two groups can just share the area and everything will be hunky-dory. We need to make it clear that the presence of snowmobilers is detrimental to the skiing experience and that this is not a case of sharing, but rather of pushing out one very large and active group in order to make room for another, comparatively small one. Also, please, please, please be civil. This should NOT be about a personal grudge between skiers and sledders. We have to stick to addressing the use conflict in this particular area and the abuse of the Backcountry Forum that is going on (the sledders applying to the gov't for the change either declined to participate in the forum or agreed to the initial designation of Phelix as non-motorized and have simply changed their minds). A reasonable deadline for letter writing would be January 21. Contact info and much, much more background information on the issue is at: http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Sea_to_Sky_Backcountry_Forum Please note that it seems that the ILMB will now only be considering unique written letters from individuals. Just signing an online petition doesn't count. If you care about this issue, please get started on writing a letter to ILMB!! Many thanks, also on behalf of the Varsity Outdoor Club, Vancouver, B.C. Bram

Snowmobile access surrounding Phelix Creek (Brian Waddington Hut) - please consider writing a letter!!! The future of backcountry skiing at Phelix Creek is being decided. A group of snowmobilers from the D'arcy area are applying directly to the government to change the Phelix Creek basin's designation to allow motorized access. This would mean that the access road and the entire alpine area around the Brian Waddington hut, including the Lord of the Rings group, would have snowmobilers running all over it. The ILMB (Integrated Land Management Bureau) has sent in Kevin Kriese from Smithers as arbitrator in this case, and he is currently leaning towards the sledders' position. This change WILL happen unless we can convince him otherwise. What the community needs is an avalanche of letters to Kevin Kriese opposing the conversion and supporting the Sea to Sky Winter Backcountry Forum, which established the original non-motorized designation for the area. Please write (and print, and sign, and mail) a letter ASAP and tell everyone you know that has a stake in this issue to do the same. It is crucial to mention the incompatibility of backcountry skiing and snowmobiling, since the current argument runs that the two groups can just share the area and everything will be hunky-dory. We need to make it clear that the presence of snowmobilers is detrimental to the skiing experience and that this is not a case of sharing, but rather of pushing out one very large and active group in order to make room for another, comparatively small one. Also, please, please, please be civil. This should NOT be about a personal grudge between skiers and sledders. We have to stick to addressing the use conflict in this particular area and the abuse of the Backcountry Forum that is going on (the sledders applying to the gov't for the change either declined to participate in the forum or agreed to the initial designation of Phelix as non-motorized and have simply changed their minds). A reasonable deadline for letter writing would be January 21. Contact info and much, much more background information on the issue is at: http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Sea_to_Sky_Backcountry_Forum Please note that it seems that the ILMB will now only be considering unique written letters from individuals. Just signing an online petition doesn't count. If you care about this issue, please get started on writing a letter to ILMB!! Many thanks, also on behalf of the Varsity Outdoor Club, Vancouver, B.C. Bram

TR for Plum and Politically correct Valentine on www.acmg.ca/mcr.

VOC = Varsity Outdoor Club @ UBC, Vancouver, BC

Just a head's up for anyone who might be heading up Wedgemount Lake for the upcoming labour day long weekend (Sept 1-3): the VOC will have it's annual mountaineering camp there, and will be there with a large (20+) group of people. If you are looking for solitude and avoiding crowds, this might not be the best weekend to head up (probably even true without 20+ VOCers)... If not, feel free to join us at the lake camp sites. Thanks

The plan was to climb Mt. Baker via the Coleman-Deming route this weekend (26-27 May, yes, in Canada we didn't have a long weekend), with two other VOCers , however, as forecasted, the weather didn't cooperate... After a short drive from Vancouver (B.C.) we left the trailhead Saturday morning ~ 8am. When we reached the snow, it was still soft due to warm temperatures and lack of overnight cooling (cloud cover). This ended up being the general theme of the weekend... However, we managed to make quick progress to the Heliotrope Ridge. White-out conditions (50m visibility) made things somewhat interesting when we reached the Coleman Glacier. However, we reached the ridge fairly soon and made camp (~7000ft). Remainder of the day was spent building a camp, kitchen and making food. The weather cleared up late in the evening, making us very hopeful for the next day. However, we also got a decent look at our route and saw some big open crevasses we would have to navigate through the next day before reaching the ~9000ft pass between Colfax and Baker. You might want to rope up in case of a white-out... The next morning awoke us with rain and total white-out conditions. We decided to sleep a bit more... Rain changed to wet snow and back to rain again. More sleep. Rain stopped occasionally. We got bored and hungry, and made breakfast. Clouds did not lift, and the snow was still slushy, so we decided to ski out. Fast and non-eventful descent brought us back to the car. On the way down I lost a non-locking biner with a 22cm ice screw, blue 120cm sling, some prussiks and two locking biners... &*^$% must have fallen of my pack while skiing down. If anyone has found it (just posting this b/c there were at least 20 cars at the trailhead when we came back)... pls contact me. Thanks! Some more beta: * The Grouse Creek was open until ~4500ft (this is where a more continuous snow cover started. * On the way out, we could ski down to ~3800ft (about 10min's from the trailhead) only having to take off our ski's once. * Parking about 250-500m from the trailhead. Recommended winter/spring route: Start just behind a small cabin, about 50 meters beyond the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead. From this cabin, make an ascending traverse (stay on the West side, and close to, Grouse Creek) for about 10 minutes. This will lead you through the forest, crossing a small tributary of Grouse Creek (on map), to the base of a large avalanche path along Grouse Creek. Follow open terrain along the creek until a gully (open slopes up to ~40 degrees) branches off to the SE around 4700ft. Follow until on the Heliotrope (North) Ridge, and contour onto the Coleman Glacier to reach the tent city (~7000ft).