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Everything posted by zoroastr

  1. Climb: Mount Shuksan-Sulphide Glacier - solo day climb Date of Climb: 8/2/2005 Trip Report: Hello... Just a quick T.R. about a nice day in the hills--sorry about some of the pics being a bit large, including this shot of my constant hiking compnaion, Mt. Baker.... My partner's still out with a bad ankle, so I took off this morning to grab the Sulphide Glacier Route on Shuksan. Left Bellevue around 5:30 a.m. and was on trail by 8:30, and in the glacier boot track by 10:30. Took it easy on the glacier, listening to tunes, snacking, and doing plenty of slack-jawed gaping at the incredible scenery. Much cooler today than a few days ago when I was in the same area--never seemed to get much over mid-to-upper 70's, with just enough occasional cloud cover to cool things off without obscuring the views. The summit pyramid was fairly straighforward, involving a short rising traverse of a small remnant snowfield [large, established boot track, 40-degree slope], followed by 20 minutes of easy ledges, interrupted occasionally by short one and two-move 3rd and 4th-class scrambles. Here's a shot of the pyramid above a heavily-crevassed Sulphide Glacier [easily skirted by keeping to the boot track to the west and probing apparent bridges]... Heard some distant voices as I approached the pyramid, and eventually noticed a large party strung-out along the route. It turned out to be a guided group finishing a 30-day outing in the Mt. Baker area. Fortunately, all but two of their group were on top by the time I hit the route, and the last two graciously allowed me to climb through. Our intimate group of 13 kicked it on top for a while. They hadn't had any news from the outside world for a month, so I filled them in on the latest gossip--Middle East, London, Major League steroid scandals, etc.... A parting shot of distant Baker Lake from the Sulphide Gl. Gear Notes: I brought an axe, crampons for the upper snowfield, small day pack with tunes and Rice Krispy Treats [the 11th Essential]. Approach Notes: Several lunar craters on USFS Road 1152, small cars beware. Abundant salmonberries on the approach trail--come hungry, leave satisfied.
  2. Climb: Prusik Peak-West Ridge - Day Trip Date of Climb: 7/10/2004 Trip Report: Yesterday, Erick Johnson and I naively agreed that Prusik would be a good candidate for our typical hit-'n'-run day-climbing style. I'd done the Enchantments loop three times before as day hikes, but the negative effects on the legs of 27 miles of rocky trail had long since faded from my short-term memory, and the idea of climbing Prusik in a single car-to-car push sounded reasonable. A day later, I find myself shopping on-line for a nice pair of crutches. Seriously, the climb went well, but if there's any justice in the universe, I'm sure that a special place in hell has been reserved for the author of the guidebook who claimed that the approach from the Snow Creek side is only 10 miles long. I could be wrong, but by the time we reached the base of the route, my legs told me I'd covered at least 13 miles. But enough nitpicking. The West Ridge is a wonderful route, offering a really good variety of mid-fifth class moves in a setting of unmatched beauty. Lots of stemming, lie-backs, mantles, and a short but exposed 5.7 slab. The four or five-pitch climb ends at a really nice, roomy summit with views to die for and a bomber, bolted rappel station that starts a series of four quick raps to easy ground and a short hike back to the start of the route. Although our experience was hampered by deteriorating weather, including some light but unsettling snow flurries during descent, a really hideous rope snag that required a sketchy up-climb retrieval [kudos to E.J.], and, of course, the exhausting 25-mile forced march, I found Prusik to be well worth the effort. Stats: Roundtrip: 25 miles. Departure from Snow Creek trailhead @ 09:30. Returned 13 hours later, miraculously refraining from breaking out Erick's headlamp. --will post a pic or two when they come back. Gear Notes: Day packs, small rack of nuts and cams to 2". Approach Notes: Trail clear, dry, and interminable!
  3. Whoooooosh! Hey, what was that yellow blur? Nice one!
  4. best of cc.com [TR] Ptarmigan Traverse FKT - 8/16/2012

    I don't know Leor, but I once did Mt. Daniel with Uli when we were both students at the UW. After summiting, we ran a few miles back to the car, and there were brief periods when the guy actually seemed to lose contact with the surface of the earth and sort of float a few inches above the ground--very impressive.
  5. That was kinda cool...i actually watched the whole thing, which I almost never do when it comes to personal video. The music's a nice match, and I like the MTV-inspired effects, like the 'schwack cam and the negative color segments...neat.
  6. Magnificent! Thanks for the share...amazing shots!
  7. finished reading your report, but i can't stop gaping. nice! :tup::tup:
  8. ...condolences on your recent de-throning: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1033386
  9. [TR] Johannesburg Mtn - NE Buttress 8/21/2011

    seriously cool shots! thx for the share.
  10. [TR] Torment-Forbidden Traverse - 8/20/2011

    damn....incredible shots. scary stuff! i'm frightened just looking at the pix...hold me!
  11. 50 miles? is that all? hardly seems worth the bother. seriously, if i had your legs and lungs, I'd throw away my car keys. nice pix, as usual. suggestion: change your handle to "Mercury."
  12. [TR] Mt Carl Heller - East Ridge 3/13/2011

    Had a great time reading your account on Summitpost. Congrats on an amazing adventure. That route looks incredible! :tup:
  13. hahahahaha! the video is funny ('specially the tent scene..heh) and nicely edited. nice music sync-up, too.
  14. [TR] Eldorado - day hike - Standard 3/5/2011

    ...another great TR! Some friends and I did that same C2C route a while back, but contended with far less snow. Nice Job! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=568322 ...holy crap! I just checked the index and saw your archive post of TR's..sorry gotta go...I've got some reading to do! thx!
  15. Thanks for a great virtual trip! Your careful documentation made for a very engaging read and contained all the elements of a perfect adventure: an exotic location, a satisfying day on some challenging crags, new friends, good food, etc.--tough to beat! --looking forward to more!
  16. wow! kewl report, pix and vids! thanx for sharing. the drive must have been the crux; even though i've never climbed above 5.8, i would gladly have faced the perils of el cap rather than subject myself to even 5 minutes of bob dylan's caterwauling!
  17. [TR] Black Peak - NE Ridge 7/9/2011

    omfg...that is bizarre! the thing actually went for you? unbelievable! ...looks like a pretty good sized goat, too. Glad your party's unscathed. Did that route a few years ago in normal summer conditions and loved it! very nice mellow c2c adventure. the crux is the drive from seattle: l-o-n-g! --thanx for a great report
  18. [TR] Mt Jefferson - West Rib 7/2/2011

    hahahahahhaha gr8 TR ...scaring the crap out of your friends: just one of the many benefits of climbing.
  19. OMG! That belay pic totally raises the bar for cute...hahahahha! gr8 stuff.
  20. kewl pix! congrats on ferreting out one of the last remaining places overseas where an american flag doesn't draw instant gunfire.
  21. [TR] Mt Rainer - Gib Ledges 6/17/2011

    those are some seriously schweet rainier pix! they made me move from my comfortable reclining position just so I could log in and tell you that. --thx
  22. i opened your file in MS Paint and hit the "untilt" button.
  23. Nice report and snaps! Sounds like you had a much easier time on the ledges than our party a few years ago--I guess we just missed finding the scramble route. The ridge route was fun, but if I were to repeat, I think I'd definitely just rap the W. Ridge for the descent--much faster and more secure. Thx again!
  24. Congratulations on an amazing climb! ..the sort of thing I'll only ever experience vicariously, but LOVE reading about. Thanks! ...and what a refreshingly dignified route name!