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Sport vs Trad


Raindawg
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based on your position on vaccination alone, you are in absolutely no position to judge anyone else's cognitive abilities

 

ah yes, another instance where "lick sack" and "dumb shit" were the extent of your replies to anything you disagreed with.

 

hey i think your bottle's calling; you're getting into multi-syllable words ruskie boy.

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RuMR - it could just be that, appearances to the contrary at times, that you're simply not an idiot and do actually manage to maintain plain common sense when dogging on gear. But your experience isn't everyone else's and you clearly haven't been following along the various forums if you've missed those accidents - he'll we've had a couple of it out at Beacon in recent years.

 

And actually I'm really good at gear, but then I also don't dog on it, good or marginal.

 

so, you're OK with people placing gear and falling on it, but they shouldn't dog it because they might not have set it right.

 

:lmao:

 

 

Good point...and if people weighting trad gear is a drag, then you best not ever watch anyone climb El Cap.

 

Seriously, to invoke "ethics" with respect to dogging is not only childish but totally egotistical. When I think ethics, I think of issues like environmental degradation, murder, theft, etc. Someone rehearsing moves may offend your sensibilities, but unethical? Gimme a break. This is recreation.

 

Personally I would argue that dogging is if anything safer than committing to falling every time as long as that person knows how to set pro- and if you don't, then you have no business leading at your limit anyway.

 

No one sets out to dog a route, really- I think the ideal is ground up with no falls or hangs; if you don't make that, then I see nothing wrong with working on the troublesome section independently. Moreover I think one learns the route and the grade faster this way- running up the 80' section of 5.10a repeatedly and then falling off the .11+ move and going back to the start may be an honorable way to do it too but in the end that's just one way of making a game out of it, and it doesn't really put you in the learning zone for as much time- in my opinion.

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based on your position on vaccination alone, you are in absolutely no position to judge anyone else's cognitive abilities

 

ah yes, another instance where "lick sack" and "dumb shit" were the extent of your replies to anything you disagreed with.

 

hey i think your bottle's calling; you're getting into multi-syllable words ruskie boy.

 

ahhh...another fine example of the Finns poundin' the Russians... :tup:

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The bolt question is basically everyone's opinion and opinion only. Unfortunately we all seem to share the common trait that we are correct and all we have to do is keep hammering others and they will at some point, if we persist, see the light.....

 

news flash: NOT!

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I haven't been that light in 30 years but I always guessed that the bad bolts came from Squamish........

 

so let's get the facts: how many bolts have broken on you, and what were they?

 

i've never had a bolt break, and indeed my sporto 180 lb ass has fallen on lotso lotso bolts.

 

although: i was hanging on a bolt a coupla weeks ago, looked up, and noticed the hanger was held on by a half turn of the nut. literally. the fall would have put me in a bad bad place. very scary. so, check your hangers.

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Easy answer 2 bolts both 1/4" diameter...length unknown.

 

Just replying to JosephH's assertion. But a friend of mine did break a fairly new bolt in Spain this year simply by falling.

 

Skykilo the Squamish comment was kind of a joke years ago rumour was that a batch of bad bolts were purchased by Squamish locals and used there and in Yosemite.

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based on your position on vaccination alone, you are in absolutely no position to judge anyone else's cognitive abilities

 

ah yes, another instance where "lick sack" and "dumb shit" were the extent of your replies to anything you disagreed with.

 

hey i think your bottle's calling; you're getting into multi-syllable words ruskie boy.

 

LOL. Have a seat and be a good little beta - nipping at the heels of us alphas will get you nowhere. Or you could be like JH and resort to some soma for relief. :wave:

 

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There is nothing wrong with your profession, Dawg, and nothing to mock about it.

 

What there is to mock is the fact that you dedicate your life to study an ancient people who RAPED the rock while SIMULATEOUSLY engaging in this anti-bolting crusade. Explain just how it is that these ancient peoples are worthy of dedicating your life energy and are seen by you as a positive influence (right?), while anyone who places a bolt is anathema to you? Surely the damage caused to the rock in say, the Valley of the Kings, or the quarries mined to get blocks for the ancient pyramids far exceeds the combined world-wide damage caused by bolts.

 

What does my profession (which you clearly don't understand), my role in my profession (which you clearly don't know much about nor understand)or the ancient Egyptians have to do with climbing practices in 2009?

The answer? NOTHING.

 

Your comments involving my work are nothing more than a cheap, irrelevant personal attack suggesting that you resent both my climbing perspectives and me as as a person, and indicate that you have little of substance to offer.

 

Nor do you fully understand my position on bolts (the short version: they should be rarely used.)

 

 

anyone who places a bolt is anathema to you?

 

Did you make that one up yourself? I know several people who are sport-bolters and some of them I like. Do I like what they do? Not particularly.

 

Now run along li'l bully!

 

080125-bully-vmed1pwidec.jpg

 

 

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What does my profession (which you clearly don't understand), my role in my profession (which you clearly don't know much about nor understand)or the ancient Egyptians have to do with climbing practices in 2009?

The answer? NOTHING.

 

You previously posted that you were going to work on an excavation in the Valley of the Kings. I can't think of a worse example of raping the rock than the Egyptians carving out that monstrosity all in human vanity. Now that the earth has retaken that soil, you are eager to uncover the blemish. In the mean time you harp on with your anti-bolt crusade while you adore the Egyptians. The hypocrisy is laughable. If the connection is not clear, than your mental process is as addled as JH's, Kevbone's, or Kimmo's. :wave:

 

 

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