Folded 60m rope

[needtoclimb]

It seems like a folded 60M half rope will work great for many easy alpine climbs, where most of it is running belays, and most crux pitches are shorter than 30m. My question is, how does one tie into the ends of a folded rope.

 

I am thinking that on the folded end, tie a figure eight on a bight, and using two locking biners, clip that to your harness. One the other end (the side with two loose ends), tie in with both just like you would with two half ropes.

 

Any suggestions or hints from anyone who has used this set up?

[Farrgo]

I use this set up quite a bit for ridge routes. It's an easy, low-drag system while simul climbing, but can be extended out for longer pitches.

 

I've always tied in with one person tied into both ends, and the other attached via figure 8 and locker.

 

 

[genepires]

or use a bowline on a bight, but use one locker as a place to clip the end of the bowline into. (for the non end rope person)

 

Make sure that the middle rope person ties into the exact middle or else one rope will be longer. The longer rope will hang up on stuff as well as get stepped on.

 

[mountainmandoug]

I usually use a bowline on a night with the bight clipped down with a locker. It takes one less biner and it's a bit more comfortable than clipping in.

[tradhead]

A butterfly knot should work too, and is stronger than a bowline if I remember correctly.

[Blake]

You can "tie" into the middle of a rope without any carabiners.

 

Pull a BIG bight of rope through your belay loop, then take this loop and pull it up over your head and step through it, like a jump rope. Cinch it tight, and wa-la, you have girth-hitched yourself to the middle of the rope, no carabiners or big knot.

[Alpinfox]

You can "tie" into the middle of a rope without any carabiners.

 

Pull a BIG bight of rope through your belay loop, then take this loop and pull it up over your head and step through it, like a jump rope. Cinch it tight, and wa-la, you have girth-hitched yourself to the middle of the rope, no carabiners or big knot.

 

Another advantage of this method is that the "knot" is easily adjustable if you find you aren't exactly in the middle of the rope. Being in the exact middle is preferable for the reasons Gene noted above.

 

I think for tying into the middle of a rope (glacier travel style), a butterfly is preferred, but for tying into a doubled-end like in the OP's scenario, a figure-8 on a bight, or Blake's method are preferred.

 

[Rad]

Clever, but if you fall on that girth hitch it could slide on you (unlikely), and if it slides you could burn through your belay loop (even less likely). It would probably take a really big fall to do that. Cool idea.

[Alpinfox]

I've only done it a couple times, but i've found if you cinch the girth hitch down when you first set it up, it doesn't loosen up (and then have the potential for movement during fall). Probably works better with an older, fuzzier rope than a new slick one.

 

 

edit: ah, maybe you mean "sliding" of the girth hitch due to both strands not being equally loaded during the fall. I think if you make sure you are really in the middle, that shouldn't be a big factor. Good point though.

 

 

Edited June 4, 2009 by Alpinfox

[goatboy]

I like the simplicity of this but one drawback is that it's very hard to self-extricate if the rope is loaded...

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I've always used the gigantor double figure 8. Looks goofy, but seems solid. I'd have the same concerns about the girth slipping, so I'd prefer a hard knot.

[Alpinfox]

I like the simplicity of this but one drawback is that it's very hard to self-extricate if the rope is loaded...

 

I (almost) always carry an off-belay device.

 

I've always used the gigantor double figure 8. Looks goofy, but seems solid. I'd have the same concerns about the girth slipping, so I'd prefer a hard knot.

 

I heard you like to have a big wad in your crotch to accentuate your hram.

[G-spotter]

You can take some long slings and link pitches instead of doing 30m pitches. Or you can short-rope or simulclimb. No need to tie in on a half rope and it will be faster too.

[pms]

same for figure 8 tie-in at the other ends. I like it Blake.