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Everything posted by needtoclimb

  1. Looking for climbing families.

    My wife and I climb, ski, hike, backpack and alpine climb. We have a three year old girl and five year old boy. I have found that kids enjoy hiking/climbing, etc so much more when there is someone else their age with them. I am looking for outdoorsy families to get out and play. If interested, shoot me an e-mail at kevin@tcd.org
  2. Need a new camera

    Looking for suggestions for a new camera for alpine/mountain climbs. My old one is taking crappy pictures now days (probably too many times being dropped), and I tried my phone a few times but don't really like it. While normal pictures on the phone are fine, I recently found out that most phones don't actually zoom. They just crop and expand the picture, leaving you with a very blurry picture. Any suggestions for a fairly rugged, light-weight camera?
  3. Mountaineering Ropes

    There ya go Joe. Grab the rope to start out. Can't beat free and will get you through glacier climbs. As you can see above, ropes are like footwear and underwear. Everyone has their own style and preference. Get out with more experienced climbers, see their style, and find one that suits you best.
  4. Mountaineering Ropes

    Just saying that most newer routes are put up with 60m ropes. Steve House and Vince Anderson are in a different class than someone who has taken one course and it asking about his first rope. You also have a lot of experience to go with a 50m so can "go back" to it. Trying to give the guy advice so he only needs one rope and not having to worry about if his 50m rope is long enough to get him down on routes that are mainly put up with 60's now days. I'd rather see someone new carry a little bit extra weight than rappel off the ends of their rope or have to simul-climb a bit. With experience comes the ability to go lighter and faster. "Worthless" may have been a bad choice of words though. A 50m isn't worthless, you just need to know when to use it. In this case, based on his question, he doesn't have the experience yet when to use it other than glacier travel. A 60 is simply more versatile for one all-around rope is all I am saying. I would recommend if you are going to get one rope to start with for multitude different climbing styles, it would be one 60m mid 9mm rope. It will do glacier, alpine and cragging. For only glacier, a 50m, 8.5 would be my choice. On my 8.2mm, prusiks suck in trying to get bite but the Sterling Autoblocks work great and grab very well. Microtraxion also grabs the 8.2. Perfect world for me (The diameter listed below is a ballpark.) 40M 8mm glacier rope for two or three man travel on smaller glaciers. It would also work for ski mountaineering or scramble routes where you are not sure if you will need a rope, but want one in your back just in case. Double 60m 8mm ropes for wandering alpine routes or double-rope rappels are mandatory. Use one for larger glacier parties or where crevasses are bigger (Rainier.) 60m 9.5mm for alpine routes where single rope rappels will get you down and for shorter crags. 70m 9.8mm for longer cragging routes This I did not now about diameters being off. Thanks. I also started when a 50 was all I could buy. Then 60's, now 70's and even 80's. When is the madness going to stop? Who the heck wants to carry an 80 meter rope?
  5. Mountaineering Ropes

    I use one an 8.2mm dry rope for all my glacier travel. 60m long. It is 60m as it is part of my double ropes for alpine climbing. It weighs 5.5 lbs. I could chop it to 40 meters and save 2 pounds, but then I would need to buy another rope for my doubles. I don't mind the 60 as that lets me put 3-4 people on the rope with some room on the ends. When I go with just one person, each of us has enough coils to perform a rescue. Remember that for a two-man team, each person needs coils that are just longer than the span between them to be able to drop the other end down. You will see a lot of two-man, and three-man teams tied into the ends of a short rope but that gives them nothing extra for rescue. 50m would be long enough for a 2-3 man as well. 50m is almost worthless rock climbing or in the alpine though as most routes are 60. Your 50m rope would be dedicated only to glacier, while a 60 can do both. Also, if you get into where you cross glaciers then onto rock, a thin rope can be folded over and then used as a double for the rock climb if the pitches are short or you are simulclimbing.
  6. Has anyone done any more work to this route? It looks like a great route, except for the lack of real descent. No descent will keep most people away from this route, and it will quickly grow into obscurity. I wanted to climb it this weekend with my wife, however, the potential of being benighted on the rappel leaves a lot to be desired. What do you think of the below lines for a possible rappel? Blue will take you straight down from the summit and looks like half of the stations could be tree belays, with just a few bolted stations lower down on the blank wall. Would this take you all the way down without any bolted stations? Purple is a cutoff to get back to the route. That would require that the lower route has bolted belay/rappel stations. Yellow would require tree rappels down the ridge (or downclimbing) then bolted stations. It would drop you right back to the base of the climb. Having not been there, looking for some insight before heading up to explore the area and search/build a better descent.
  7. Washington Pass Conditions

    Just came back from there. Tons of bugs in the parking lots and on the approach. None once at the rocks. (Did both Kangaroo Temple and Liberty Bell,) No snow at all on any approach. Snow level is pretty sad.
  8. Climbing partners

    I just climbed Adam's Glacier with David. He's a solid guy. Very willing to learn and very competent. I'd do more climbs with him but I've used up my yearly allotment of "away from family" days.
  9. State of Cllimbing Report

    I noticed the same thing when I was at Index the past few times. The parking lot was packed, the campground lot was packed, yet I was able to walk up and get on Godizilla. It was an hour or so before another party came by to climb it. With the amount of cars there, I wasn't sure where everyone was. What I have noticed is that many climbers go in large groups now. When I started, it was just 2-4 people. Now, 8-10 people will go to an area, hang one or two ropes, then everyone gets a lap. Which works out fine as those 10 people are really just confined to a couple of climbs.
  10. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Looking to head south this winter for a week. Haven't decided on the Mexican volcanoes or Ecuador. I would want to hire a local guide to handle logistics, lodging and transportation. Any recommendations for either location, and any recommendations of a local guide? Anyone else headed down this winter with room for two more (me and my wife), or anyone looking to go that want to join us? I figure prices get cheaper the more people you have. Thanks.
  11. Thoughts on Eldorado forecast

    I've been watching the weather and canceled a rainier trip this week because of it. Reading the forcast discusion, the low pressure will be pushing east on Friday, so it looks like Friday will be partly cloudy, Saturday much better. I agree with Jason, not enough accumulation to worry about slides. Smaller cracks might be thinly covered though with the wet snow, so be wary about that.
  12. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 06/15/2019

    Nice work ignoring the social media group-think and heading up to figure it out.
  13. Kautz or Adams Glacier mid-week

    No one wants to climb one of the "50 Classic Climbs of the Southern Cascades"? I'll even buy you a beer at the end.
  14. Looking for a partner or two for Kautz or Adams Glacier either June 18-20 or June 25-27. Those are hard dates for me, as my wife works Mondays and Fridays and I have other commitments on the weekends. I am 45 years old, been climbing in the Cascades for 15 years. I move slower than I used to, so if you are 25 years old, just expect to walk a little slower than you are used to. Have done Emmons, Gib Ledges, ID and DC routes. Give me a shout if you want to go so we can talk logistics and plans. 425-802-3100
  15. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 6/3/19

    Here is a picture of June 14th, 2010. What a difference in snow levels. Below is the ice stop. It looks like the ice step has lost about five feet of ice. That right variation didn't exist nine years ago.
  16. Alpine Dads wanted

    I am a 45-year-old father with a full-time job but try get out into the mountains once every couple of months. Every time I do so, I have to search the internet for a partner. Most of the time I end up with a partner who is single, no kids, young, extremely fit and has a much higher risk-tolerance than me. Then I never see the person again as I may not be free to climb for several more months while they are ready to conquer a new climb the next day. I am looking to put together an informal group of Alpine Dads; fairly fit alpine climbers who understand balancing work life, families and climbing. If you are in the same boat I am, always looking for a partner for the one day a month you have free to get out, then shoot me a PM. The idea is to have a group of alpine dads where we can reach out to each other to see who is available for the day you have free to climb, and climb together for years to come instead of just a single outing. As the kids grow (mine are 6 and 8), get them more and more involved and start taking them up bigger peaks. Couple of things I would like to do this year: Ski ascent/descent of Whitehorse mountain in the next month, a 2-day light and fast ascent of Glacier Peak in August, and hopefully more if I can convince my wife the need to get away. Other weekend outings will be comprised of backpacking trip with the family, and family cragging days at Index or Exit 32/28. Look forward to hearing from you.
  17. Yak peak conditions

    Just drove by it on Monday. Some snow on the south face with water streaks. Not much, but enough to be noticeable while driving by at 60 mph (or is that 110 kph?) Not much snow up on top either. I bet a few more days of sunshine will dry out the south face.
  18. Alpine Dads wanted

    I just made a google doc sheet with all names and e-mails, etc. If you didn't get an invite, PM me with your name, e-mail and phone number to add you.
  19. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Thanks. Good info. For Mexico, I wouldn't want a guide. Looking for more of a logistical planner. I sent Servimont an email regarding that. Thanks for the tip. After researching Ecuador, guides are required. They won't let you climb without one. Still very much in planning phase and cost. Mexico is cheaper, but less "real mountaineering" other than altitude. Equador seems more expensive but appears to be more glacier climbing. At the end, it will come down to cost vs reward. If anyone has an ecuadorian guide company they recommend, please share. No way am I going with an American one like RMI. The prices they charge are outrageous, and I dont meed or want the pampering they do.
  20. Alpine Dads wanted

    I'm headed to Skaha for the long weekend for some family climbing. My next free weekend is July 13th. I am thinking of either Adams Glaicer, Kautz Glacier or Liberty Ridge. Trying to convince my wife to join me, but whether she joins or not, I'd want another person or two.
  21. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Leaning tower at Vantage. Yeah, it's not alpine, but it is in the Cascades...kinda. Was pushed over about 15 years ago.
  22. [TR] [TR] Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm 04/28/2019

    The very last photo has Johansburg in the background, just over my right shoulder. I don't have any other shots of Johansburg.
  23. Long snowy approaches - equipment recs???

    Mountaineering in the cascades: Dec-March: Resort skiing, maybe ice climbing, very wet hikes. March-June: Volcano climbs and back country ski tours/ascents. Often long approaches. July-October: Cascade rock and high routes. November: Stay home and drink beer.
  24. Long snowy approaches - equipment recs???

    My story: I used to ski a lot as a teenager, but then got out of it for a while. After climbing Hood and Helens and hiking all the way down in boots, I decided that I was done hiking down snow. I picked up some AT skis and never looked back. I use skis mainly to make the descent faster, even if that means they are on my back most of the way up. Also, they give me good flotation when needed. Look at Facebook grouips "PNW Ski Classified" and "Washington Hikers and Climbers Gear Swap." I am not a fan of Facebook, but it seems that more and more stuff is moving away from forums and going there to sell. A good forum for AT gear is https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/9-Gear-Swap-(List-View). You can pick up a used set of skis, bindings and boots for pretty cheap. For a first set, you can pick up a whole set up for under $500 if you look long enough. I have a pair of Scarpa F1's that walk like a dream. They feel like a slipper. Even my ten year old AT boots walked very well. I covered many miles of road and dirt in them. Another option that I often employ if I have road or dirt walking is to wear running shoes and carry the boots attached to the skis. So much more comfortable. As said above, I also tailor my outing to the approach. If there is enough snow to skin up and ski out, the rock might still be too wet or covered. Also, if there is that much snow, roads are usually closed miles before hand (8-mile road) and I don't want to shlep all that rock gear and deal with snow in the cracks of the rock, and post-holing all the way down. I will wait until it melts out to do long rock excursions. I break my AT ski season into three categories: Winter outings where I want to get into the back country, but nothing so daunting to risk avalanches. These can be tours off of the passes, side-routes on Mt. Rainier, etc. Less focus on peak bagging or climbing, more focus on just getting out for the day. Spring ascents of peaks where skis give me flotation and quick access down. Stuff where the roads are still closed. Sahale is a great example, walk on the closed road until snow, then skin up and ski down. Ski's give me greater access and speed that boots and snowshoes. This category only lasts a month or two until the roads open and the trails melt out enough that i can boot up. Ski-specific outings: These are spring/summer ascents where half the ascent will be on foot, the other half on skins, and ski down a few thousand feet before having to boot again. All the volcanoes fall into this category, and tours up Muir snow field and Heliotrope ridge for exercise. I am taking the skis for the purpose of skiing.