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Tony_Bentley

[TR] Mt Stuart - Complete N. Ridge & Gendarme 6/1/2009

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Trip: Mt Stuart - Complete N. Ridge & Gendarme

 

Date: 6/1/2009

 

Trip Report:

Geoff Cecil and I climbed the complete north ridge.

 

We approached via Teanaway and bivy'd at Ingalls Creek on Sunday and did a quick hike to Goat Pass to check out the views.

 

We began hiking to the base of the ridge at about 5am and began climbing at about 9am. At about noon we were at the notch between lower and upper ridge. After getting to the ridge proper we ran into a bit of snow and decided to pitch out parts that would require some funky mix of rock, snow digging and tedious stepping. At one point I think we both were wondering if the route would go without crampons since neither of us brought them.

 

Once at the base of the gendarme we were about 1.5 hours behind schedule. The upper ridge above the gendarme had the most snow but was manageable and went pretty quick.

 

We were on the summit at about 8pm and quickly descended part of the Cascadian Couloir and traversed right to avoid a lengthy hike back to camp. Exhausted, we retreated into our sleeping bags and slept through the night.

 

The next morning we hiked out in about 1.5 hours and hit the burger place in Cle Elum before heading home.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Alpine rack to 3", ice axe, boots and a light jacket. Should have brought sun block.

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Amazing day! Hopefully (we) will be able to get some pics on this here TR. Very long and exhausting day. Past the upper notch doubt had planted itself in my mind while looking at the half snow/ice covered slab pitch before the gendarme and the rest of the route. Looking back the snow/ice was probably the highlight of the climb...looking back. I probably smoked about 5-6 cigarettes on route and ate Tony's food. Good times!

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Has that fixed #4 lasted into yet another season on the wide second pitch of the gendarme? I love that fuckin' thing.

 

I'm guessing the chosscadian is now more choss than skiable terrain, no? It's pretty hot so that snow shouldn't last long.

 

nice job.

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It's still alive. I would like to personally thank the person who left it there for the rest of us. My pack was 1lb lighter thanks to you! The upper half of chossycadia is snow intact.

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Sweet. Now if only I had the time...

 

Do it in July... it will be snow free so you can easily go C2C with the long days

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Nice going Geoff! I mean, on getting 5 to 6 smokes in on the route.

clearly you have not mastered the art of leading w/ cig in mouth! makes you feel oh-so-french :)

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Nice going Geoff! I mean, on getting 5 to 6 smokes in on the route.

clearly you have not mastered the art of leading w/ cig in mouth! makes you feel oh-so-french :)

 

I thought pulling on the gear is what makes one feel french?

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Pulling on gear with cig in mouth while sporting a moustache reminiscent of Burt Reynolds. Style.

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Yeah, but does he have a moustache?
if i could borrow john's 'stache from one of his stuie-trs then i would truly be the shit!

 

was hand-rolling smokes and drinking red wine during marathon aid-belays at yosemite last week :)

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well said. Nice long day, must have been great.

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sick duders! must a been a fun outing! i wana go rockclimbing geofffffffff....i cant grow a mustache yet and i quit smoking but i still like burt!

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Way to get it, Tony!! and I like your slo-mo movie signature.

 

And the West Ridge route? Are the approach gulleys still snow filled? Is the summit block snowy on the west side?

 

I believe Mr. DanielPatrickSmith or something like that said the route is in good shape...snow in the gully dry rock. He posted it around here somewhere...

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So is the fixed cam on the OW actually clippable? It had no sling to clip last time I was up there...which, admittedly, has been quite a while.

 

But that didn't stop me from STANDING ON IT :)

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Nice going Geoff! I mean, on getting 5 to 6 smokes in on the route.

clearly you have not mastered the art of leading w/ cig in mouth! makes you feel oh-so-french :)

 

But can you still be holding the cig should you peel? That would really make one french...

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