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Trip: Climbing Les Calanques, Provençe, France -

 

Date: 4/21/2009

 

Trip Report:

After spending the last 5 months in France, I needed something to cap off my visit with something extraordinarily notskiing. I sought the region of France known as Provençe in the area near Marseille on the Cøte d'Azur. I searched for a place that would offer me utter disconnection from the dangerously anglofied inner-reaches of the alps. This place is known as Les Calanques, or The Channels in American.

 

Les Calanques is a region of limestone cliffs known for it's complex beauty and proximity to Marseille. You can be in the depths of the calanques in literally 15 minutes from downtown Marseille, the second largest city in France. The place offers hundreds of sport routes ranging up to some of the hardest and most progressive cave-roof climbing in Europe. In addition, the place has insane psicobloc or deep water soloing.

 

Upon arrival, temperatures were in the mid 60s and a large swell was breaking as a result of the approaching storm. The region lies in a rain shadow of the Pyrenees and is relatively arid. This place is the stomping grounds of legends like Gaston Rébuffat. It does not suck.

 

After a few kilometer hike in we were rewarded with unrelenting beauty; the place has hundreds of towers, caves, coves, cliffs, bluffs... It's literally a playground. We spent much of the first day exploring and just laying on the beach, something that was much needed. The following days were characterized by getting absolutely hammered on the beach while enjoying some leisure sport climbing and beach lounging. I really like climbing drunk. Near the beach. I think I'll do that from now on.

 

Now I'm sitting in Chicago where the weather is nothing short of heinous. Why would you go somewhere that's not there?

 

 

 

Bienvenue a France.

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Wow. What the fuck is going on here?

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Downtown Cassis. Note: do not camp at Camping Le Cigales. Just camp illegally on the most epic bivouac ledge you can find. No one will give a shit.

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This beach allows access to many multi-pitch climbs that are only accessible by boat. This boat had a bunch of climbers on it.

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Looking towards Marseille.

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The bivy ledge. Yes, it was as bad as it looks.

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Me spying on some chicks cleansing in the early morning sun.

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Elisa, getting Psicho.

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A multi pitch ridge arrete near Marseille.

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It was near this ugly port.

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Yeah. I prefer this place.

 

Gear Notes:

3 bottles of Chardonnay. 1 bottle of burgundy. No water. 300 quick draws. 10 kilos of Reblochon cheese. 1 carton of American cigarettes.

 

Approach Notes:

Drive very fast on gravelly roads. Preferably intoxicated and with a scarf on. Cigarettes are highly recommended.

Edited by powdherb
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