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rperitore

mt buckner

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anybody interested in skiing the N. face of Mt. Buckner sometime soon...looking for possible partners.

usual bro out of town.

Weekdays, maybe week of 2/11.

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Hmmm, you don't happen to have a helicopter do you? Snowmobile? How far up the Cascade river road were you expecting to get? How many days were you thinking?

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I agree with DP. I've been looking at this route for sometime. I've always skied steep corn and ice. That type of terrain during this time of year is very condition dependent. Personally, too many trips like that and you won't be making it home. Anyway, that is what I've been told. My only advice is, worry about the climb then the ski. Good luck, be safe, and tell us how it goes. Oh, do you plan on snowmobiling? Helicopter smile.gif" border="0 Cause if you are, then I would be interested.

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Hey Rep,It is not my style to discourage any ambition this side of suicide, but I will merely give the vitals on this route and let you decide.1. It has not seen a winter ascent according to the guide books, that doesnt mean it wont,just maybe not during a winter like this one. Last year would have been perfect and I would have been very interested myself2. I did the route with D.P. and I think you would find it intriuging enough in the summer.Recon time is never a waste3.I have been in the area in winter and it is most burly. Access and avvyies are difficult obstacles.4. I dont know how the subject of skiing came up , but to ski down would put you in a place where you would have to climb back up. Maybe you could climb the easy way up the south face and then skidown n.face to climb up the N. face then? The trip would be an expedition to put it lightly.5.No helicopter landings are allowed in the park.6. Good luck finding a willing partner.w

[ 01-30-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

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If we got a long-lasting high pressure system that firmed things up, and left stable old powder on the north face, it might be not too crazy?. But this year, it would still mean a long approach. You might be able to snowmobile to the park boundary, but its still many more miles to Cascades pass.

I would be very suprised if Buckner hadn't already seen a winter ascent.

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It is possible that Buckner was too easy for the hard guys who climbed so many of the larger north faces in the winter during the 1980's but it has proven out of reach for the more casual winter climbers. Climb it an publish a trip report of your first winter ascent and see what kind of a response you get.

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I've never heard of Buckner getting a winter ascent. Some of you may remember John Krakauer's Outside magazine piece about Fred Beckey several years ago. In the article Krakauer, Beckey and Mark Bebie were climbing in the Cascade Pass area, hoping for a 1st winter ascent, but they settled for Sahale due to concerns about time and avalanche conditions. I've always assumed they were intending to climb Buckner. If a winter ascent has been done, it hasn't been reported in the usual places.

If you want to ski the north face, you'll have to camp on Boston Glacier, climb and ski it, then return to Boston Basin by traversing around Boston Peak. Very doable under good conditions; very deadly under not-so-good conditions. I climbed the north face and skied the SW route as a day trip in July 1999. The north face was in poor condition for skiing at that time due to a big avalanche runnel down the middle.

Frankly, I would not attempt an adventure like this in mid-winter with a partner I just met on the internet.

--Lowell Skoog

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I wonder what other 9000'ers haven't seen winter ascents?Shuksan, Stuart, Jack all have, and I assume 7-finger Jk, Maude and Fernow have.

Do Goode and Bonanza have ascents? Seems like those would be tricky.

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While not strictly a winter ascent, in late November, 1976, Steve Doty and Van Brinkerhoff climbed one of the gullies. hey thought that their route of ascent had never been climbed, but latter learned that Calder Bressler had climbed the route.

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Seems like Fernow must have been done from Holden, but I don't remember seeing it written up. Copper would be similar. There was a serious accident on Copper at the end of March 2000 when a couple of Holden residents tried it and got avalanched off.

Maude and 7-fingered Jack may not have been climbed in winter. They are rather remote both from Holden and from the Chiwawa River.

Logan was done by some Everett climbers in the late 70s or early 80s. I climbed Bonanza with Mark Bebie and my brother Gordy in late December 1979. We had good conditions, and the climb was straightforward. Goode was climbed in the 1980s by Bill Pilling and Steve Mascioli via the NE buttress. I consider that one of the most impressive winter ascents yet done in the Cascades.

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I believe it was Walter Gove who climbed the North Couloir before Brinkerhof and Doty. As I recall Brinkerhof and Doty did their climb in a single day from the road, which is pretty respectable for November.

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While considering how impressive Bill Pilling and Steve Mascioli's winter ascent of Goode was, remember that the pair had made the first winter ascent of the NE Rib of Johannesburg earlier the same month!

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Great reports Mr.Skoog! It is refreshing to see this site used consructively.have you heard of the n.face of Buckner being skiied,and would it be better to first climb the easy rt(s.w.) up then ski the n.face then climb the n.face and return the easy way?

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yikes! I'm with DP and the rest. Where's the helicopter????

Hey, anyone heard frome rpertore? Didn't he start this thead?????

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I have not heard of the north face ever having been skied. In fact, I've never heard of any ski descents of Buckner other than my July 1999 trip. If you know of others, let me know.

I can think of at least a half-dozen strategies for doing this trip. They all have trade-offs. I think one of the most enjoyable things about getting familiar with the Cascades is that you learn to evaluate which strategy will be most elegant or enjoyable for you. For me, climbing up the SW route, skiing the N face, then climbing back over the mountain doesn't seem very elegant.

Mr. Skoog? You must be thinking of my dad. ;-)

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CASCADE LEGEND SIGHTING!!!!!! shocked.gif" border="0 Rodchester take note! tongue.gif" border="0

Anybody looking for a big face to ski should check out the east and south faces of Silvertip. 2000m vertical smile.gif" border="0

Has the NE face of Redoubt been skied? seems to me i heard it had but can't recall the source. maybe it was John Chilton?

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I would caution anyone who climbs up one side of a mountain and skis down something on a completely different aspect. By climbing up what you intend to ski, you get to assess the conditions. Jumping blind into one of the N. face chutes on Buckner is not very smart in my humble opinion!

IF I were to do it, and it is intriguing since I have climbed it, I would do it as such. Get a snowmobile and get as far up Cascade River road as possible. Approach up into Boston Basin and set up a base somewhere up there. Cross over (near Boston Peak) onto Boston Glacier and traverse to North face routes. Climb the route and ski it if possible. Back same way. Problem with this is if you climb it and don't ski or even descend it, you are now a huge long way from camp! Any way you slice it, it's a pretty big objective!

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I am looking at probably a 2-3 night trip. Am assuming several miles of road skinning. Have not quite decided upon approach route. Right now leaning towards Sahale Arm, via Cascade Pass. Around Sahale Peak and down to the Boston Gl.

Or Boston Basin. Most likely will stick to Cascade Pass. The idea now is to climb and ski N. Face, then judging from approach, determine route of return. Hopefully not re-climbing the N. face.

Was able to get a climbing/skiing buddy from Salt Lake to come out and give it a go.

Appreciate everyone's input.

Happy climbing!!

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(Copious Fawning) We want to hear about it when you get back

[ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

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