Braydon Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 This is probably a better place for this post... Hey guys I looking to take advantage of this cold spell and take my brother ice climbing while he and the ice is still here. Can you toprope the ice at Exit 38 at the Black ice area? If not, where would be a good destination for us? Thanks guys! Oh btw, i've heard rumors that if you get a good cold snap, that the haystack on si can be a fun, easy mixed climb...anyone know if it would be in now? I've also heard of routes on the north side of Mclellan's butte and Kent...any info on those would be appreciated as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) RE: Black Ice. CYA - I am not sure, but you can most likely get around to the top of that by climbing up very steeply through trees along the right side? I've never actually climbed the route, as it's only been in once or twice that I am aware of, ever. AlpineDave and CascadeClimber said there was a ton of gear at the top to rap from. I am not sure your brother would have much fun at the Black Ice ice, as CYA has a difficult mixed start, and the other route has an unsavory approach through steep snow covered brush. Setting up a TR on either would be a lot of work Haystack on top of Si is a fantasically long hike for scratching around. While it's in the book, I wouldnt recommend that as a destination ever. I think your best bet close to Seattle in the coming couple days would be Franklin Falls. Other ideas that come to mind are Fuggs Falls out at Vantage, and Umptanum Falls near Ellensburg, for easy access to their respective tops without having to do any climbing. Both are 2 hour drives, though. Edited December 17, 2008 by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 do you think this cold snap will have formed solid ice further up the drainage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 McClellan Butte and Mt. Kent are alpine ice climbs and wouldn't be top ropeable generally. Also long approaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) I hesitate to even make this post but while looking for rock I seem to remember some short waterfalls along the rr tracks near the Foss River. I am talking short but easily approached. Its been years since I was in the area but I distinctly remember walking by with a beer in hand (in the rain) and discussing how they would make fun easy ice climbs. I am sure some exploration would pay off during this cold spell. Edited December 17, 2008 by Peter_Puget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 McClellan Butte and Mt. Kent are alpine ice climbs and wouldn't be top ropeable generally. Also long approaches. oh yeah for sure! I got a little off track and had a completely different question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Nobody knows because the last time it got this cold for this long it was 1856. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 do you think this cold snap will have formed solid ice further up the drainage? you mean up the source lake drainage (S. Fork Snoq)? There is a nice waterfall about 30 min up the drainage from the alpental parking lot. I climbed it a few years ago in another cold spell. Temps were single digit during the day. Seemed about what was necessary to freeze the high volume. I would expect it to come in now. I thought it was one of the finer easy single pitches I've climbed in WA. Can be easily top roped too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilookeddown Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Also the patch on skiiers right off of chair 1 @ Alpental that you can TR. Don't know if it is in. There is also some stuff along the climbers trail @ Mt Washington @ e-38. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Chairlift falls is melt fed. I bet it is pretty anemic and not worth the hike right now, Especially with so much ice closer to the road. There are plenty of small flows in the alpental falls area right next to the parking lot. Many of these could be toproped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 If it stays this cold for a few weeks, the small Franklin Falls cirque could sport a ton of fun and if someone were to bring a drill, it could feature some rather spectacular mixed variations that would surely test the forearms of any hardy soul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 do you think this cold snap will have formed solid ice further up the drainage? you mean up the source lake drainage (S. Fork Snoq)? There is a nice waterfall about 30 min up the drainage from the alpental parking lot. I climbed it a few years ago in another cold spell. Temps were single digit during the day. Seemed about what was necessary to freeze the high volume. I would expect it to come in now. I thought it was one of the finer easy single pitches I've climbed in WA. Can be easily top roped too. This was forming up Sunday when I wandered by; I bet it'll be a nice little outing this weekend. Not super steep, 25 meters, probably cauliflowered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil K Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 (edited) I haven't been there in a while, but with this weather I think it would probably be a go. And the access is about as easy as you can ask for. There are some smears along the RR grade just across the river from Index town wall. Park wherever it makes sense, then follow the grade back toward Highway 2 Stevens Pass. Within 200- 300 yards you'll find smears that can ice up pretty well. Maybe further than that, but not much. Not real hard, WI2-ish? Probably tricky scritching around to set up a TR, but what the Pho. If I get around to it, I'll post some photos. Dork City. Edited December 28, 2008 by jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 While out xc skiing the neighborhoods, I found some really sweet ice floes in Renton. A little thin for leading, but definitely top-ropeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obwan Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 Go Renton! Actually I'm waiting for the next Ice Age so that I can climb Coal Creek Falls on Cougar Mtn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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