Climbing vacation in 09 - suggestions where to go?

[everyfrog]

I want to do a week-long rock climbing vacation in 2009 for either February or late March/early April to get a break from the blah-PNW at that time of year.

 

I hear Joshua Tree is nice at that time b/c it's warm and not crowded. Any other suggestions for great places to go during that time of year for some rock?

 

EF

[Winter]

Red Rocks.

 

Portrero Chico.

 

Kalymnos, Greece.

 

Early April in the Valley can be great if you get lucky.

[jared_j]

I hear Joshua Tree is nice at that time b/c it's warm and not crowded.

 

If by warm you mean potentially cold and windy as f**k with snow dustings and your water freezing solid in the night, then yes, it is warm.

 

OK, hyperbole aside, that was my experience in J Tree once in February and once in March.

 

You've got better odds with Red Rocks; even if it's cool out, chasing the southern aspects can work. In addition, Red Rocks grades are a little soft, which should keep you outta trouble since it will have been awhile since you've touched the rock up here.

[everyfrog]

the joshua tree tip i heard was from friends who went this past spring and are still raving about their adventure there - they may have gotten lucky with the weather.

[max]

One plus of Jtree is cheap flights. Obviously things have changed in the last year and a half, but I flew to palm springs for about 200 rt from b'ham. Check out allegiant air. By my calculations you could expect to pay around $400 in gas alone if you drove. (not including cost of car and 2 oil changes)

 

I've been to jtree four times over "spring break" and it's been hot and cold at times on all four trips.

 

Red rocks has softer climbing and less wind, but it just isn't as amazing as jtree.

 

Save some gas. Hit up vantage, tieton, Smith or one of the other "local" (albeit a bit boring) crags!

[ClipStick]

Joshua Tree would be my choice...the climbing is the best when it is cold...just be ready for any weather during your trip there....Might be perfect, might be COLD...

 

With only 1 week, however, I wouldn't pick J-tree unless you have callouses from pure rawhide, cuz the rock there will shred you fast and you won't get as much climbing as you would like in a week...It usually takes two weeks for me to adjust to the rock. Then I have to leave..lol..

 

Planning a trip now for weather in 3-4 months is tough...also, what "type" of climbing would dictate what area...Isn't Red Rocks basically all sport and known to have one of the busiest highways right next to it, so not really a relaxing place...

[Argus]

...Isn't Red Rocks basically all sport and known to have one of the busiest highways right next to it, so not really a relaxing place...

 

Probably just the opposite. Mostly long multipitch trad in the canyons. There's a lot of sport in the Calico Hills area, but you shouldn't go to Red Rock for that.

[ClipStick]

A little research and I see...

 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/redrocks.html

 

I guess I was only familiar the sport cragging area at the beginning of the road...

[denalidave]

...Isn't Red Rocks basically all sport and known to have one of the busiest highways right next to it, so not really a relaxing place...

 

Probably just the opposite. Mostly long multipitch trad in the canyons. There's a lot of sport in the Calico Hills area, but you shouldn't go to Red Rock for that.

Rec Rocks Rocks. you have so much variety ranging from short sporto to remote long trad climbs.

[Crillz]

Word on Red Rocks.

I'm headed there next week,most of the routes we have picked out to do are about 8-10 pitches of pure trad.

 

However, you can't go wrong with J-tree (unless the weather craps out).

[Sherri]

Another vote for RR. The place has a lifetime's worth of routes, with plenty of variety for every style. Besides the "classics," you can always check out the new routes being put up at Red Rocks Climbing Guide or mountainproject.com

 

I'm headed there next week to do just that.

[genepires]

go to both. it is only about 3 or 4 hour drive away. spend 3 or 4 days in j tree. when your tips are trashed, go to RR. If you are still trashed, go to zion for a little canyon sight seeing.

[Drederek]

Try to hang on for late march and you'll find wamer temps + longer days. We stopped hittin JT in feb after it snowed on us! An average day at JT end of march is 70 in the day, 40 at nite. I've never been to Red Rock before early May but its usually pretty warm or HOT by then.

[AR_Guy]

Ok - so's here's a variation on the OP's question:

 

I'll have from the 26th of December to 3rd of January available to go climbing somewhere other than the PNW. I'd like to do more trad than sport. Grades I'd like to climb: Equivelant to Leavenworth 5.7-ish or below on gear, 5.8-ish or below sport. Multi-pitch preferred, but if there's lots of single pitch crack, I'd be game for that. Good guide book for the area is required.

 

JT or Red Rocks? Or ??????

[tradhead]

I'd pick Red Rocks over Josh if you want easier routes. Josh has plenty of <.10's but the gear is challenging and the ratings solid (similar to Index ratings?). Also no sport routes - a typical 5.7 slab in Josh has 4 or 5 bolts max. in 160' with a walk-off.

 

Red Rocks has soft ratings (on par with Squish? - it's been awhile since I've been to RR), plenty of single and multi-pitch routes of all grades, and plenty of sport climbing. I don't recall very many 5.8 and below sport routes, but you can always go to Calico Tanks and hang some TR's on .9's and .10's if you want a break from multi-pitch/trad.

[PhöQ]

Alot of great choices above, I love RR and picking a base there would allow you to explore all the great stuff in JT, Southern Utah, and Easter Sierras.

Primo stuff all inclusive and variety aplomb!