Dare-Ington

[DirtyHarry]

What's the best route around Darrington with the least amount of slab?

[Off_White]

The Bluegrass Festival this weekend.

 

If you don't like foonting, best to not go there. My (perhaps faulty) recollection suggests that The Jinx may be not all that slabby, though come to think of it the tip toeing around moss patties above the roof was the psychological crux. You're too tough for 5.9 anyway.

 

No, on second thought, best you should go to Exit 38.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Matt's "Jacob's Ladder" route has some easy slab pitches to start, but after that the climbing is quite varied.

 

Dreamer also has a bunch of non-slab climbing.

[Blake]

"Flight of the Falcon" on Salish peak (7 pitches, 5.11a) has no slab, but Ross and Mike L thought it was overbolted.

[mattp]

There's some good knobby face routes on The Comb, too.

 

On a hot summer's day, though, you probably want to chase the shade. Dreamer gets the sun at 6:00 a.m. these days, and The Comb is east facing as well. I'd consider hitting the west facing routes on Exfoliation Dome (start early), or maybe the north facing crag climb that is the first six pitches of the new tower route on Big Four (though good luck finding the latter if noboy has been there yet this season; if somebody wants to go and doesn't mind a lame old guy who can barely walk, I might partner up).

[dberdinka]

Jacobs Ladder up through P6 or so and the first two 5.10 pitches on RainMan make for a mostly nonslab day with lots of excellent crack and face climbing.

 

CombShot on the Third Tooth of Comb Buttress is 3 pitches of good face and crack climbing. Around the corner is an amazing steep arete with a mix of bolts and cracks that is supposedly 2 pitches of mid/hard 5.11, looks a lot more like Index than D-Town.

[Alpinfox]

Everything on the north side of Exfoliation Dome (Voodoo Wall) is non-slab climbing. There are FAs to be done there as well.

 

If you find a pair of sunglasses near the campsite at the base, let me know.

 

[mattp]

It is pitches 3 through 7 that offer five pitches of non-slab climbing on Jacob's Ladder. Darin may have forgotten those first two slab pitches but they are trivial. Combshot and Kiss the Troll are good knob trotting.

[G-spotter]

What's the best route around Darrington with the least amount of slab?

 

The Grand Wall at Squamish

[DirtyHarry]

True Dat.

[pms]

gota second the Salish recommendation. Didn't mind stepping on some bolts either.

[builder206]

If you find a pair of sunglasses near the campsite at the base, let me know.

 

If you mean the camp on the approach road very near the start of the Granite Stairway, I made a quick check Sunday but didn't see anything. In fact it looked as if no one had even used it recently.

 

If you mean some other campsite, perhaps closer to the start of a route, I dunno.

[mattp]

I already said so in the other thread, but somebody needs to head up to the Granite Sidewalk with a broom. A half hour's work could take a considerable amount of the scare out of scareington. I took a wisk broom to some smaller bits higher up, but the bottom of the approach scramble is a mess right now. It is possible to bypass it in the woods, but not that easily done. Granite slabs with sand, gravel and shredded tree on them ...

[shapp]

Climbed Dreamer yesterday, Hanman lead all pitches to get stoked on a 3 day climb coming up soon. He is a manimal. The trail into dreamer is not in good shape at all, much worse than just a couple years ago. With the extra length and blowdown, figure twice as long to hike in, around 2 hours for a midget, quadrapalegic, and a caveman.

Shapp

[hanman]

We were one of the parties on Dreamer yesterday- great day on the hill. The approach road has been fairly obliterated by trees and general jungle hell. We walked in from the 8 mile TH. It is also worth noting that the boulder wash approach is marked by a cairn and features a neat hands and knees sub canopy birthing sequence. Quite memorable, 10 minutes with a saw is in order

 

MH

Edited July 21, 2008 by hanman