Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
ivan

[TR] Mt Jefferson - Pimp Fest on the Jeff Park 6/19/2008

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Jefferson - Pimp Fest on the Jeff Park

 

Date: 6/19/2008

 

Trip Report:

spent 2 days in the vicinity of oregon's neglected step-child - shame she's so overlooked as overall it's a much manlier mtn than hood - figured, as a good uva alum, i'd run out of excuses not to do my founders namesake - have always laughed and derided the tr's of folks doing this in summer so figured this was the ideal time - sick, sick skiing all over the place, if only i could ski - tree wells 10 feet deep in jeff park - out w/ pimp-master joshk, back from a long hiatus studying mandarin chinese and tantric masturabting techniques in tulsa and tibet, respectively. the jeff park glacier is steeeeep, and very much like a snowcone at the moment. the most notable parts of the climb are the slogtacular hike in, currently remarkably annoying given the snowpack, and the uber-direct descent strait down whitewater creek that we cooked up once our :toad: supply appeared in danger of being kicked in just a few hours - holy hell this was a fun way to walk out! 40 foot sump holes in the creek eventually giving way to raging rapids and waterfalls. at one point in the vertical forest i slipped on ice and began accelerating towards a sodden demise when a perfectly placed sapling hit me just where the good lord split me (so says the poet) - don't think i've ever had such a hematoma in so unusual place ('cept that one sweet, sweet summer evening in kansas city, so many moons ago)

 

fantastic trip - didn't see another soul thursday to saturday - came home and got drunk at a kids b-day party and slept on the floor while being treated like a human pinata - good times :)

 

pix to follow if i can get motivated

 

Approach Notes:

snow x 30000000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

jeff from the road

Jefferson_Approach_2a.JPG

deeeeeeeep snow in the woods

walking_through_the_woods.JPG

jeff from around sentiniel hill? a lot of up and down and annoy-ness here

there_it_is.JPG

endless_up_n_down.JPG

strong winds on the approach day - cool lenticular around hood

cool_hood_lenticular.JPG

the route from across the way - note the scrumcious rimmed-up summit pinancle on the far right

summit_ridge1.JPG

upper_jpg.JPG

ahhh, it ain't easy be'n a pimp - wine n' smokes n' the sun

what_we_do_best.JPG

toolz

toolz.JPG

these guys will eat out of your hand, and peck out your eyes unless you throw snowballs at them!

our_aggressive_friends.JPG

moon-set on the morning of the climb - and no, it ain't photoshopped!

not_photohopped_moon.JPG

looking down on jeff park - lakes just starting to show up

jeff_park_from_above.JPG

the dog routes of hood n' adams

hood_n_adams.JPG

josh's feet went to shit, so i set off to solo the route

the_scene.JPG

yummmy crevasse below!

crevasse.JPG

the_scene_2.JPG

the_scene_3.JPG

the_scene_4.JPG

the_scene_4a.JPG

traversing above the 'schrund - a fall here would get you out of paying your taxes next year :)

the_scene_5.JPG

the landscape around camp settled 12 inches in 2 days - finally a haze blew in and the death-by-solar-rays diminished as the sun-rings formed

the_sun.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of my favorite summit-less trips. The advanced foot protection and maintenance began as soon as I got home last night so I should be able to remain viable this week. BTW, those 3 cigs I bummed for the drive home were the only thing that got me there alive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Super sweet writing and TR Ivan! Good to see a good time was had by all (both of you!).

 

Last weekend Ujahn and a couple of his other buds went for Hood. Summitted fine along with hundreds of others evidently, but they were sitting decramponing at Hogsback when some unroped fella fell from the top and slid head first sans helmet @ 700' right INTO the fumerole as they gaped, gasped and shit!

 

Dude got lucky and not only lived but walked off, very shaken, bruised and scraped from a few rocks in the fumerole area. He can thank his lucky stars he didn't plunge sooner in the day when the snow was hard and fast, as the mid-day sun had warmed and softened the snow considerable apparently: slowing his plunge and saving his life. You certainly avoided that zoo this weekend for sure.

 

Nice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Way to go tall dude :tup:! Nice read and super photos. Jeff Park was one of my all time most enjoyable climbs back on 6-1-2002 - back when Hood was closed because of the rescue chopper crash/fiasco. The knife edge ridge was mixed and the summit pinacle was completely plastered with super solid rime. Fun fun fun!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's steeper and scarier than Ivans pics show, but my memory generally sucks real bad. Tim gets on steep stuff all the time, so maybe it made no impression on him.

 

Check out the pic of Ivan smoking and drinking wine, is that a big fluffy pillow at his feet? Looks like a pretty cush camp:-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think it's steeper and scarier than Ivans pics show, but my memory generally sucks real bad. Tim gets on steep stuff all the time, so maybe it made no impression on him.

a cwaaaazy solo for sure :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good stuff, nice to get a peek at the lakes too. And nice work keeping your eyes protected. Never want to lose your peeps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The route was definitely steep above where I stopped. I was telling Eric that sitting below and watching him climb above was more intense than actually climbing. The glacier forms a big bowl so that I could hear every step he kicked and every time he planted his axe. It was an interesting vantage point!

 

I would definitely like to return some day again. It was a surprisingly cool and rugged mountain in the middle of an otherwise bland forested section of the Oregon Cascades.

 

The most amazing thing was the size of the tree wells and the gaping holes above the slowly melting out creeks. There is still 20 feet of snow up there in places. Pretty amazing...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so did you summit or what?

 

any beta on the knife edge ridge? all rime i assume?

 

did you downclimb the glacier?

 

 

JL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

been 7 years since i gave ole'jeff anohter try - i'm up to 0-2 now but i suppose you gotta punch the ticket to make the 3rd time the charm?

 

good times none the less - oleg who i ain't seen since fuck-all n' the powderhound of course - busted out of pdx early saturday to spectacular skies - easy driving all the way to the trailhead - mostly snow-free the first half but the last half to jeff park still doable in tennis shoes

 

arrived around noon n' spent the day sunning on the bare patches, binge'n'purging n' soaking in the views of the big, big route -dinner by 5 n' bed by 6

 

up at midnight even as daylight's saving fucked us n' made it 1 - a southern breakfast n' half-frozen water n' then up we went - post-holing here and there, me steadily fallling behind n' sweating like the proverbial fat kid in the candy store - b the moraine top i was content to say fukkit n' wander back down so the Tremendous Two could continue at break-neck speed n' get it done

 

piled 3 sleepign bags on top of myself back at camp and snoored away until i heard the rotten sound of those dismal bastards bounding back into ear-shot just a couple hours later - they too will be back to settle the score someday :)

 

rightous walk out, slipping n' sliding on the slickery trail in my soul-less shoes, passing a deluge of day-hikers

 

winter's dead as disco :rawk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×