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eric8

Local overhanging cracks

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From 10d to 11d. By local I mean Index, Leavenworth, Tieton, Squamish, and I suppose Smith but only if its really a classic.

 

Marginal Karma

Debs Crack

High planes drifter

 

others...

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thanks, though I guess I should have specified I routes that are just truly overhanging not just vertical routes with little roofs... but I totally forgot about earwax thanks

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From 10d to 11d. By local I mean Index, Leavenworth, Tieton, Squamish, and I suppose Smith but only if its really a classic.

 

Dudes in spray were yanking on Zebra-Zion at Smith - 10a, but it made me reflect this weekend and think of Lions Chair, which from the ground up is a total classic by itself, and I "think" it's 11a. I say think cause it's hard for the grade, or it seemed hard when I was younger and getting up stuff like that, and that was a long time ago. Over my head now although I could follow it. Great route, interesting moves. I like Sunshine too, which fits your range at 11d, but I use to have calves of steel, and it's only a single pitch. Just under your grade, but worthy of mentioning is Kunza Corner, 10c, also a diheadral at Smith, easier than the grade indicates as it has some nice rests for your elderly climbers. :grin:

 

But none of them really over hangs. Culls in Space overhangs but isn't a classic.

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'A Swingin Affair' above Careno 5.10c

 

Worthy of a send even if it doesn't make your range of difficulty. About 4 moves inverted.

 

 

 

ROTC

 

 

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Is "A swingin Affair" The thing left of exotic dancer? I did that a several years ago, I few steep hand jams then your done?

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Physical Graffiti at Broughtons Bluff in Troutdale, OR. Guide calls it 10.d. I asked the FA about it….he said they graded it 10.d because at the time that was the hardest grade. I think its 11.a……it has fooled me three times…..

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Orgasmatron isn't really a jamming crack. Maybe one or two trivial jams over its entire length. That's not to say it osn't a fun route.

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that omak crack looks awesome.

 

Anyone done the Serpentine crack on Liberty bell? I have heard 10+ to 11+...

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Hey, me, me!

 

Yes, I've done Astrologger, Mastodon Roof, HPD, ROTC, Earwax, and

 

 

What was the question?

 

 

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Astrologger...izzat the thingamajig over by alaskan highway?? like mid 11 or so???

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So is Astrologger good? I don't own a squamish guidebook but I remember reading about multiple hand size pieces so i was thinking it must be pretty steep. Was it clean.

 

alaskan highway would be another one too I guess. Though I'm pretty sure it would chew me up and spit me out at the bottom.

 

Ryan probably just wants to know about Mastodon so he can TRY to talk me into leading it for him. :P

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Dude last time you lead something wide, you pushed the damn big cam up so far I had to climb it with nothing to pull on but the frickin rock. I'll take this one.

 

So beta on Mastodon roof? Its that steep wide crack near the top of that rocky hillside thing above the straightaway boulders at leavenworth right? or is that something else? any fun? big cams and go for it?

 

 

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So is Astrologger good? I don't own a squamish guidebook but I remember reading about multiple hand size pieces so i was thinking it must be pretty steep. Was it clean.

 

alaskan highway would be another one too I guess. Though I'm pretty sure it would chew me up and spit me out at the bottom.

 

Ryan probably just wants to know about Mastodon so he can TRY to talk me into leading it for him. :P

if astrologger is the one by alaskan highway, i did NOT climb it...it looked waaaay good...

 

alaskan highway is awesome...we meant to do the whole link up, but were pretty toasted by the end of the highway and bailed...

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how's about pipeline and scimitar??

 

also, what about all the awesome stuff at nightmare rock??

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there were a couple of good croft 11+'s up near daily planet on the sheriffs badge that were good too...

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Pumpline 11b, leavenworth

poison balance 12a, leavenworth

perrys lieback 11a,squish

Black catbone 11d, index the crack isn't vertical persay but still overhanging

Kieths Crack 11c, index, overhangs slightly and then pulls thrua bulge

Bravo Jean-marc, Index 11b, Prolly dirty right now

Pressure Drop 11b Index

Grandaddy Overhang 11c, Nightmare Squish

Another Mans car 11c, index havn't done it but looks tittilating

highplanes drifter 11+, squish

perspective 11a squish

 

Edited by Adventureboy

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From 10d to 11d. By local I mean Index, Leavenworth, Tieton, Squamish, and I suppose Smith but only if its really a classic.

 

Not many consistently overhanging Tieton cracks. Tortured Landscape (.11b) at Rainbow Rocks is one, with kind of sketchy gear, although it's not very long. Georgia Peach (.11c) at South Fork has an overhanging crux bulge finish. Oh, and Community Project at the Bend (.11d) leans a bit...

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Physical Graffiti at Broughtons Bluff in Troutdale, OR. Guide calls it 10.d. I asked the FA about it.he said they graded it 10.d because at the time that was the hardest grade. I think its 11.ait has fooled me three times..

as a side note, pg is also a uber-fun quick aid/french-free climb, which is what it's become for me everytime i've ever tried freeing it :)

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