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builder206

Index Sunday?

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I am learning to lead, that’s why I put this in Newbies instead of Climbing Partners.

 

Assuming it's dry enough, does anyone want to go to Index on Sunday? I want to do lead Great Northern Slabs and Ultrabrutal. I have followed both of these before.

 

I can follow Index 5.8 with some thrashing, so I can belay you on something at that level as payback for tending the cord while I lead the bunny stuff. I have tried Index 5.9 and I'm not there yet.

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I found Roger's Corner(1st pitch)to be a good newbie lead, also. Get a couple good jams(w/good pro) in that intial crack, and the rest is just some blocky fun. I think guidebook says it's 5.7, and you can rap from anchors at top of 1st pitch.

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Roger's Corner sucks. Don't do it. And Sherri lies, so don't believe her.

 

The two you mention are going to be good to lead. You can also do a fun crack on the rock right across from Toxic Shock. Sherri, do you remember the name of that climb? I think we've played on that one the last two times at Index. It was something like "Party Pussy" or something like that. Really fun, short, and super easy to protect.

Edited by archenemy

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the 5.7 crack (corner flash) across from toxic shock is not a good lead for a beginning leader, IMO. I find that the protection is kind of funky near the deck. Maybe you're thinking of who put the purr in my pussy? That's nearby, and a good climb, I think it goes at 5.8

 

 

Edited by rob

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I believe Sherri and Rob. If Archie of all people tries to tell me about some climb called Pussy Party, I know something's wrong.

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If you start out on Even Steven instead of by way of the boulder problem start to Toxic Shock, and then switch over to T.S. half way up, the climb is a pretty good and easy to lead 5.8.

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Roger's Corner sucks. Don't do it. And Sherri lies, so don't believe her.

 

The two you mention are going to be good to lead. You can also do a fun crack on the rock right across from Toxic Shock. Sherri, do you remember the name of that climb? I think we've played on that one the last two times at Index. It was something like "Party Pussy" or something like that. Really fun, short, and super easy to protect.

 

Liar, liar, pants on fire. :(

 

 

Builder, that first pitch of Roger's Corner is sweet. I wouldn't sandbag a newbie leader(I'm too close to being one myself.) You can always follow it first and decide for yourself. True, Arch hates it. Maybe I just like weird climbs.

 

Arch, I think the short one you're talking about over by Toxic is "Corner Flash," 5.7. You're right, that was fun. I don't remember it well enough to say whether it would make a good lead, but it's one I'd definitely take a shot at next time we're out.

 

"Who Put the Purr in My Pussy" was awesome, too. The approach was the crux, wasn't it?

 

 

 

Arch, I only lie to you because you bring out my dark side. :eveeel:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Sherri

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I believe Sherri and Rob. If Archie of all people tries to tell me about some climb called Pussy Party, I know something's wrong.

 

:lmao:

 

I think she made that one up. Sounds fun though.

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P.S. I've climbed with this joker, he gives a fine belay. Someone go out with him.

 

I would myself but my life sucks right now

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If you end up going to Castle Rock you might as well jump on some 8s there as well. Catapult link to Canary or SF Jello Tower/Midway Direct will be good for you. Super good protection!

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I'd say the South Face of Jello Tower is a rather challenging 5.8 lead with some injury potential for a new leader. Great climb, though.

 

Catapult is a one move wonder with pro right in front of you. Although the start and end of the route are not stellar, it is worth it for the 80' of really fun climbing in the middle.

 

Canary is a bit harder but well protected. Neither pitch is completely straight forward, but it IS a classic route and quite exciting.

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I believe Sherri and Rob. If Archie of all people tries to tell me about some climb called Pussy Party, I know something's wrong.

 

:lmao:

 

I think she made that one up. Sounds fun though.

That's the one--Who Put the Purr in My Pussy

 

It was a wide crack that took good foot jams and a little stemming. It was dirty so it was a wee bit slippery.

 

B206--have someone put up the rope for you and do it once then try leading it. It's really short so it might be good for a quickie. I thought it was really fun. But hey, I lie. ;)

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So Mike, did you get out to Index on Sunday? Henry Leap and I played on GNS and on the first pitch of Lizard on Friday afternoon/evening. We had beautiful weather, except the bugs were kind of bad as the evening wore on.

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Were you at Aries when the girl was squeeeeezing a #4 into that fist crack at the start? I was curious if that cam ever made it back out of there. :whistle:

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I'd second MattP's comment on the S face of Jello being less than idea for a newbie trad leader.

 

I had been leading trad 8s, 9s, and some 10s for several years when I got on it. The gear protecting the crux is fairly tricky and likely to be one of your first pieces. I placed a nut that seemed solid but apalled to see it fall out just after I climbed past it - and no it was not a quickdraw/ropedrag pulling it out. At that point I was looking at decking and had to decide between climbing higher to the next protection stance or downclimbing through the crux. I chose the former and everything turned out fine. I wouldn't want a newbie to have to make the same choice.

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Did my first all-up multipitch lead Saturday. In other news, I know of a small beginner's rack for sale, or will trade for bowling shoes and a pair of balls.

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Hey, I'm also a newbie at trad and trying to get better. I've done GNS, Aries and the twin cracks 5.8 right of toxic shock, and they were all fine. If possible, and I know this is a bit far afield, but I just got back from 4 days in red rocks and it was great for working on trad leads. The climbing at the grade we were doing (5.6 and 5.7) was super easy, which allowed me to concentrate on placing gear from good stances and figuring out the changeovers. I came back with a much better idea how I wanted my rack and much faster at the belays. If you can get down there try Cat in the Hat, Johnny Vegas, or Solar Slab.

On the other hand, the weekend before I went to Tieton and shredded my hands and was totally gripped on a 5.8. :)

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Stewster

 

Check out the Tieton Guidbook. At Royal Columns, start on Western Front (5.3) and work up the grades from there to get a feeling for what a Tieton rating is. My understanding is that, at least at RC, that the sub 5.9's are sandbagged a grade or two relative to other locations in Washington.

 

WF and the other routes at 5.5 and under than I led were quite fun and friendly to this newb trad leader last summer.

 

Be aware though, that the 'other' 5.3 at Royal Columns - The Apprentice, isn't 5.3 (using Western Front as the 'standard' by which a Tieton 5.3 is judged). It's totally sandbagged, at least to me. YMMV.

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RC is great for stretching BoC or MK into one LONG pitch and getting extra pump! But otherwise I tend to approach BoC/MK by rapping from the top of GNS, because Lizard/GNS/variants are so fun.

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Stewster- The easy ones I've done at Tieton Royal Columns were Western Front, Rough Boys, Slacker, Good Timer, Double Trouble, The Apprentice, Nimrod's Nemesis, and Nimble Novice. All in the 5.3 to 5.6 range, and all were fine, although the 5.6 climbs were harder than expected for my poor sportclimber based abilities. At the Bend I did Ed's Jam 5.8 which went fine, but Alar 5.8 was at my limit and I bailed off First Blood 5.8 when I ran out of the right sized gear and had to lower off trembling and sobbing. :)

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