scottgg Posted February 19, 2008 Author Posted February 19, 2008 Thanks for the everyone. To answer your questions: Took about 4.5 hours from the car at Icicle Creek to a brew stop at Colchuck Lake. Good snowmobile tracks on the road, and nice snowshoe track on the trail (thanks Ivan and Tvash). Looked like tracks leading up towards Stuart also. On the face conditions were outstanding, with most snow being in the form of neve. There were a few thin spots, but nothing I'd call sketchy. Simulclimbed the whole route in about 5 blocks. In terms of grade, I think something like IV 5.7 AI3 sums it up nicely. The rock is fairly compact, and we found knifeblades and small cams worked best. Yeah, the pitch linking the Gerber-Sink to the 3rd Couloir was probaly the crux. Good fixed lost arrow at the base, but then no pro for 30m. Really fun though, with solid sticks in frozen turf and sporadic ice patches. Mark said it's 5.7 in the summer. Didn't get a good look at the Cotter-Bebie, but I'd bet its in good shape (though the finish right of the fin looked thin). Quote
Maine-iac Posted February 19, 2008 Posted February 19, 2008 Great pics!! I was just looking at this climb in the guide book, so its great to actually see some current pics! well done guys Quote
Bug Posted February 20, 2008 Posted February 20, 2008 Good work! Thanks for the pics. I have done this route in summer and wondered about a winter ascent. I actually cut across the ledges on the face of the fin and then up right out of the gulley. But I am wondering how that gulley would look right now. It loked to be a 5.9 corner with a nice crack. With a little snow and ice, hmmm. Quote
ivan Posted February 20, 2008 Posted February 20, 2008 how fun does this route compare as a summer one? relative to backbone? Quote
Bug Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 how fun does this route compare as a summer one? relative to backbone? For those of you who have already done the triple couloirs and are contemplating this outing, you can finish the upper part of the Gerber-Sink route by following the top of the Hidden Couloir route up along the ledge at the bottom of the fin, across some ribs and and such, then up to the summit, making a completely separate outing rather than following the third couloir. This is a better description of what I did. I like it a lot but have not done the Backbone so I can't compare. I have done Serpentine and like this one better by a lot. Not as much loose rock and a better line in general. It is a cruise with a few "cruxes" of 5.7. Very straight forward route finding. No 5.9 compared to Backbone. You could opt to do the fin too. If you look in the Becky Book, it is actually a combo of two lines that cross at the base of the fin. Quote
pms Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 Nice! Anyone know of previous winter ascents? Quote
ivan Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 For those of you who have already done the triple couloirs and are contemplating this outing, you can finish the upper part of the Gerber-Sink route by following the top of the Hidden Couloir route up along the ledge at the bottom of the fin, across some ribs and and such, then up to the summit, making a completely separate outing rather than following the third couloir. This is a better description of what I did. I like it a lot but have not done the Backbone so I can't compare. I have done Serpentine and like this one better by a lot. Not as much loose rock and a better line in general. It is a cruise with a few "cruxes" of 5.7. Very straight forward route finding. No 5.9 compared to Backbone. You could opt to do the fin too. If you look in the Becky Book, it is actually a combo of two lines that cross at the base of the fin. in summer do you have to finish up the last coulior or can you stay on rock? Quote
Bug Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 Rock all the way. Unless you count the descent. Quote
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 Yeah Boyyyyyzzzz!!! Does that look cool. Great report Scott. Glad you were able to snap a few pics too--putting wings on this office chair. Quote
Off_White Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 Rock all the way. Unless you count the descent. I haven't done Backbone either, but I concur with Bug about this being much nicer overall than Serpentine. Nothing quite as sweet as the Serpentine finger crack, but the total package is really fun. Of the four routes I've done on the face, this was my favorite. I'm thinking that bottom part of this route could be used as a fast and fun way to get to the upper Backbone route on the fin. The Gerber Bone could be flat out the funnest line on the mountain... Quote
Ade Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 Sweet! Sounds like there's a good boot track in there for once. Ade Quote
dbb Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 but then you'd miss the offwidth and the sweet hand/finger cracks above it Off! If backbone were a little more sustained it would be a 50 classic. Quote
Bug Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 Hmm. Have to do that one. I have a 5 Camelot just for that offwidth. Quote
Off_White Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 but then you'd miss the offwidth Call me a wuss, but I've always found it much more enjoyable to talk about offwidths after you've climbed them than it is to actually get in there and wrestle 'em to a standstill. It's kind of the castor oil of climbing techniques... But yeah, I'll no doubt wind up doing the complete Backbone rather than repeat part of an alpine line I've already done. Quote
Bug Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 I'll carry the #5. You lead the offwidth. Quote
kurthicks Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 it's not that hard guys. just go do it. Quote
dbb Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 follow the top rope: ok, thread officially hijacked! Quote
Off_White Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 Not if I'm going to belay you and you're going to wear skimpy running shorts. Quote
ivan Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 the ow on backbone's a joke, and i should know, being the punk grappler i am - especially if you have a big piece (i used a wild coutnry #6) it's titantic fun and very, very easy (the fin pitches up higher i think are much more thought-provoking, espeically as the rock up there is typically crummier) - i seriously considered rapping back down so i could lead the ow again it was so fun - it's not even vertical and the rock's very textured so you can stem on the left side, arm-bar in the crack while shoving the gear up to give yourself the tr, and have your right foot easily out on the face i imagine it'd be a bit funkier in winter... Quote
kurthicks Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 i imagine it'd be a bit funkier in winter... actually, I've been told it's the same, just colder... supposedly it goes free... Quote
Dane Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 Good job guys and nice pics by everyone. how fun does this route compare as a summer one? relative to backbone? Depends on what you are into. I like it better than BBone simply becasue it is slightly longer and a straight line top to bottom of the face. Easy enough with a bit of 5.6/5.7 at two places, one little corner that is hard to miss mid face and if you are finishing by the widly exposed 4th class ledges below the Fin there a step around at the end of the ledges there. The 4th class ledges are a must do on Dragontail. A more scenic finish though is up the G/Sink to the middle of the Fin and finish up the middel of that feature...5.8 or easy 5.9 on incredible granite on an even more impressive feature. The "FIN" is a cool place and should be on every tic list. This is the last pitch off the Fin looking back just as you hit the ridge. Looks and feels like the freaking alps Thanks to E&L for the pic.....take a look here for more on B/Bone. http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Cascades%20Rock%20Climbs/Dragontail%20Peak/Dragontail.htm Quote
goatboy Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 That strange block of granite sticking out of the fin (behind Lucie) is one of the most bizarre things when viewed from any angle. It seems so improbable when you're up there, and also when I gawk at it from home. The rest of the fin is so uniform and planar in this section, and that one feature juts out so prominently..... Any of you geo-geeks care to comment on it's formation? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.