tokyobob Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 I just finished the latest issue of Alpinist and the contrast between two of the articles (short ice climbing history of Ben Nevis and an article about the two women ice climbers blitzing their way through Iceland) has got me in a state of trad monkey spanking piss. First off, the folks in the articles are so far beyond my skill level, it’s laughable. Of course, bolts are at the core my irritant. Contrast the high ethical tradition and development of routes on Ben Nevis with the bolting of one route in the Iceland article. The climbers in Iceland expressed exuberance that they could break out the Hilti and bolt up to gain access to a very desirable ice formation. They mention at least twice in the piece that the bolts were placed ground up (this seemed to be a one pitch route with no bolts for belay). So, a few questions come to mind: Why not place gear to gain access? If you can’t place gear, why bolt your way onto the formation? Given the ephemeral nature of ice, why not wait to see if the formation “comes in” to an accessible non bolt level? If the formation retreats, how cute is a three bolt ladder to nowhere? Why not find another formation for a photo-shoot? Is this just the standard sport route philosophy? Is there any ice route that’s so esthetic, you would enhance it’s beauty with bolts to gain access? Would you like to see this at your home of record? I ‘m not a zealot and have been glad to clip bolts at a belay. I always figured if I had to bolt a one pitch route, rather than place gear, it was because I sucked and needed to get better. Even if I were world class rather than a WI3 wanker, I would have found a different route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Goddamn that was fuckin funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 I always figured if I had to bolt a one pitch route, rather than place gear, it was because I sucked and needed to get better. Even if I were world class rather than a WI3 wanker, . It's true. You suck, wanker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 you misspelled "really"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Conway Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 you misspelled "really"... you suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 oh really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gertlush Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 If it gets me in a magazine then watch out cliffs, here come the bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 oh really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizard_brain Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 oh really? Ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Good spray, girls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendershot Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Better to spray than beat the dead horse on the bolting ethic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.