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Posted

IMO, the overwhelming benefit of aluminum alloys for use as material for hexes, or stoppers, (besides weight and strength) is its propensity to gall. The galling helps it hold in placements. Plastic doesn't do that.

Posted

So, it seems like they must have taken this into account in their choice/design of polymers, but wouldn't the shit just shear right out of the placement? Sketch-o concept. The Doctor certainly wouldn't be jumping at the chance to take whips on plastic bolts, anyway.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

So, it seems like they must have taken this into account in their choice/design of polymers, but wouldn't the shit just shear right out of the placement? Sketch-o concept. The Doctor certainly wouldn't be jumping at the chance to take whips on plastic bolts, anyway.

Plastic bolts [Eek!] Well they might be good for alpine stuff eh? Light enough. Do they have a plastic drill too? [Wazzup] Maybe we should give T.Shoes some for his project at Nesakawatch. [Razz]

 

Seriously though - I would imagine they tested these things. ( I hope!) I remember seeing something about them a few years back. If the hex has a good placement I bet it would be OK. I think the nuts would give me the [Eek!] though.

Posted

Actually they might very well be as strong or stronger as Alum. Nuts.... I have been seeing a lot of plastic popping up in new sailboat hardware mostly because it is stronger and lighter than the Aluminum it is replacing...

 

We can let the Aussies fall on them for awhile and let us know what they think...

 

A

Posted

Yeah those f**kers are probably lying about the strength ratings [Mad] . Newfangled plastic hexes!! Throw 'em in the junk heap with the wiregate 'biners, Friends, and crampons! [Mad][Mad]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by chucK:

Yeah those f**kers are probably lying about the strength ratings
[Mad]
. Newfangled plastic hexes!! Throw 'em in the junk heap with the wiregate 'biners, Friends, and crampons!
[Mad][Mad]

Yeah. And kernmantal ropes really suck too, eh ChucK? We should all be climbing on hemp.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by eric8:

Metal Hexes sound cool

I doubt there lying about strength, however, i to would question durability of the peices.

Me too. I mean my metal ones are almost worn out! [Wink]

Posted

Back in the 70's, Forrest distributed an array of "plastic" wedges. They had an unpleasant affinity for becoming "fixed" placements under relatively light (say, as on an aid climb) loadings. Apart from their tendency to be irretrievable, they worked exceptionally well in soft rock (Zion).

-Curt

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